Husky 22 ton splitter can you make it quicker?

[slipknot]

I have one of them 22 ton husky splitters and have almost gotten it back to th eway it used to split. I have been complaining about the slow cycle times, and was wondering if there was an adjustment in the control valve to speed the cycle times up a tad. I can split by hand quicker with how slow this thing is. Thanks fellas

 

[sawinredneck]

The only adjustment is for pressure, don't mess with that without gauges and know what you are doing!!!! As far as increasing the cycle time you would have to get a bigger pump and probably a larger control valve as well. Cycle times come down to how much oil is moving, the more oil the faster the times! The only way to increase that is move the oil faster ie. larger components, not increased pressure unfurtunatly.
Andy

 

[jags]

Sawinredneck, that is only partially true. I will hold my hand in front of a garden hose at say 50 psi, but I sure as heck wouldn't do it if the tank was pumped to 1000 psi. The VOLUME of water coming out would tear your hand off. I know this is not a real world comparison, but the logic is that at a higher PSI you can DISPLACE more volume of a given fluid. But on the other hand, as Sawinredneck, I believe was trying to lead to ( and please, with all due respect I am in no way trying to speak for him) To turn the pressure up enough in a hydraulic system typical to a log splitter, that would yeild enough noticable time difference would probably send you into the DANGER ZONE.

Just MTC.

 

[sawinredneck]

Jags: acctually when you hod you're thumb over the garden hose you decrease volume creating more pressure. Less flow, more pressure. Example: the hose on the pressure washers always leak at the pump conetcion, running or not, the hose is supplying more watter than the pump can displace for the given amount of pressure created.
Andy

 

[slipknot]

So I can turn up the pressure to get a little more tonnage? I am just trying to figure out what has happened to my splitter, it's not low on fluid, yet it has trouble splitting some walnut rounds. Its weak now. Also is there a way to adjust the return cycle so it does not go all the way back up? I'd like to make it stop at 20" instead of 24". LOL..and...what would be wrong with my control valve if it does not click off on the return cycle? I have to babysit it and click it off myself or it will burn the pump up if it aint already? Sorry so many questions...I was always told thats one way to learn.

 

[sawinredneck]

So I can turn up the pressure to get a little more tonnage? I am just trying to figure out what has happened to my splitter, it's not low on fluid, yet it has trouble splitting some walnut rounds. Its weak now. Also is there a way to adjust the return cycle so it does not go all the way back up? I'd like to make it stop at 20" instead of 24". LOL..and...what would be wrong with my control valve if it does not click off on the return cycle? I have to babysit it and click it off myself or it will burn the pump up if it aint already? Sorry so many questions...I was always told thats one way to learn.

Yes, increases in pressure increase the tonnage. I you can put a pressure gauge on it and test it that would be a place to start. Depending on how old it is the pump might be getting weak? The only way I have seen to shorten the return safely is to mount something on the ram that kicks out the control valve on the return cycle. Never really had the need, try to have 2 on the splitter at all times, goes way faster! Check the ends of the contros valve, they might be getting rusty and binding up. That or the spool vavle need rebuilt, again, depending on how old it is. No, it shouldn't burn up you're pump, wear it out faster maybe, but hyd,pumps are very durable little creatures!
Andy

 

[CaseyForrest]

You dont really turn up the pressure, you turn up the relief valve. The relief valve limts the pressure in the system so you dont put more pressure on things like the hoses and cylinder than they were designed to handle. Most are set at 2250 from the factory, Allot of hoses have a working pressure of 2500 or 3000 with a burst of almost twice that.

The only way to increase cycle time is to either increase the RPM of the engine driving the pump, but most are desgined to run at a max of 3600rpm. Or get a higher displacement pump, which requires more HP to turn. A minimum of 1/2hp per GPM pump rating is suffcient.

 

[CaseyForrest]

Slip, It could also be the piston seals on your cylinder, if those are leaking, under pressure fluid will simply push past the seals.

 

[slipknot]

The splitter is less than a year old, but is used heavily. (60+cord) All of a sudden it won't split frog hairs. The cylinder looks ok(no leaks) I think the pump leaks slightly(its got oil all over it) the control valve leaks ever so slightly from the top part where it looks like you can unscrew 2 bolts to gain access to the adjustment part(atleast so I've been told) I just wanna crank this baby up so it will split like it used to. Every now and then I would find a forked peice that it wouldn't split, but like I said before i have found a perfect walnut round that stalled it. This sucks cause i am loosing production.
Last year i pushed out 46 cord with it, this year I have might have 8-9 cord split with about 20 or so cord cut and waiting to be split, And i just broke my maul handle yesterday. GRRRRRRRR! If it wasn't for bad luck I wouldn't have any luck at all I guess. I appreciate you guys trying to answer my onslought of questions.

 

[sawinredneck]

I am leaning more with Casey now, sounds like the packing in the cylinder needs replaced.
Andy

 

[SmokinDodge]

A lot of very good ideas here. Have you checked/changed the hydraulic filter lately? Changing it is about the easiest thing you could do if it has one.
Next is a pressure gauge, I got mine from surplus center here on the web. You'll need one capable of at least 3,000 psi for safety. Just install it in a T fitting between your pump and controls and you will be able to start diagnosing the problem.

If it came on suddenly I would suspect trash in the relief valve or a worn spring not letting it hold pressure. But it is all a shot in the dark with out knowing the system pressure. I suspect the pressure is low causing the problem with return detent not working.

This should make it a 20" splitter:http://www2.northerntool.com/product/200324521_200324521.htm

 

[CaseyForrest]

Slip, if your piston seals are bad, you wouldnt notice any leaking. I agree, you should get a pressure gauge and install it between the hose from the pump and the valve. That will tell you whats going on. It could be that youve lost the second stage in your pump too. If it wont kick down, the 600psi cutoff where it switches to the second stage isnt going to split anything.

 

[slipknot]

So I reckon i ought to take it back to TSC? Its still under warranty. I just figured I'd stretch it a bit before I take it back(get the most out of this one!)

 

[Jwoods]

Slipknot:

1. Check piston seals for leakage. -take the cylinder to full extension, and remove the rod side hose (or loosen it up). Place the valve in the "extension" direction. If oil comes out of the loosened hose, then you indeed have piston seal bypass. The seals on those types of cylinders tend to be extremely cheap, and 60+ cords could easily wear a cheap seal out.

2. Could be dirt, or foreign crapola in and around the relief valve (best to follow others advice and have a gauge) and it needs to be re-set. Rarely do they loosen up for no reason.

3. Filtration (only on suction side) would probably not be the issue. If it were a suction filter (between pump and tank), and was plugged, the pump would sound like it was running full of marbles.

4. It could be that the pump is wearing out, but I wouldn't bet on it just yet.

Later.

 

[sawinredneck]

Have you changed the filter yet slip?

 

[infomet]

Splitter

I have similar symptoms because there is a suction screen at the outlet of the tank. It gets clogged with tank rust occasionally and almost stops flow to the pump. The pump does not make noise.
If it's in warranty, take it back! Why waste time or take a chance on a problem getting out of warranty??
If it was fast enough before, it should be again. If you really want to speed it up, you can get a dual section pump. They run the sections in parallel to get high volume when the load is light and switch automatically to series for more pressure when the load comes up. Such a pump is probably at least $200 though. Northern Tool has lots of that stuff.
Wilson

 

[Patrick62]

Not sure here, but here are some ideas:

Is the engine running well? You mentioned that it dies under load. That means that it is doing some work....??

You mentioned that it is having trouble with pieces that were not a problem before. Okay, I am under the impression that this unit has a 2 stage pump (11 gpm most likely), and it isn't shifting into the single (slow) mode for some reason. The valve that does this is part of the pump.

I really doubt that there is anything wrong with the cylinder or control valve. I have seen a splitter like this split 150 cords a year and wear out 2 engines. The cylinder and valve are still functional. It is now on it's 3rd engine....

As for making it kick out at 20 inches linkage is all that is necessary. I have photo's somewhere of this. Ram retracts and bumps into a lever that kicks the handle back to neutral. Works like a champ. I have mine set to kick out at 18"

Make it faster? Sure. Put on a honking big engine, grab a 28 gpm pump, larger hoses, and install a larger tank. Don't get carried away as a really fast splitter is dangerous. Don't ask how I know.

-Pat

 

[Rspike]

I would think if one was want to split that much wood per year you would go with a pro splitter with a Honda engine . I myself dont think these splitters under $1200. were made to split over 40+ cords a year .( more like 4-8 ) Its just like Pro chainsaws and homeowner chainsaws or anything else pro vs homeowner . I think you need to get the right tool for the job in the first place to keep up with what you are doing . I would say the average "homeowner" is going to only need to split 6 or so cords a year . So with what you have done already thats 10 years of splitting life to the average homeowner . Spend the extra $$ , dont be cheap and buy the right tool for the job you are needing it for. Problem solved .

 

[slipknot]

I would think if one was want to split that much wood per year you would go with a pro splitter with a Honda engine . I myself dont think these splitters under $1200. were made to split over 40+ cords a year .( more like 4-8 ) Its just like Pro chainsaws and homeowner chainsaws or anything else pro vs homeowner . I think you need to get the right tool for the job in the first place to keep up with what you are doing . I would say the average "homeowner" is going to only need to split 6 or so cords a year . So with what you have done already thats 10 years of splitting life to the average homeowner . Spend the extra $$ , dont be cheap and buy the right tool for the job you are needing it for. Problem solved .

Ummm I am not a wood salesman full time... I have some land to clear and thats it, it's over for my wood cutting career. So thats why I opted to not spend the extra cash, plus I just did,'t have the extra cash, gota start somewhere I guess. I had 46 cord last year and about 25 this year, I figured if it can't do that It doesn't belong on the market.

 

[sawinredneck]

If it's under warranty take it back and let them deal with it!!!!!!!!!!!
Andy