Husky 345 Question-How tight should clutch cover be?

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rider93hawg

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How tight should I tighten clutch cover? Put new chain on yesterday and it ran great for a while but then acted like the chain brake is on. It's not because I could turn it freely by hand after install. I'm thinking I am putting the clutch cover on too tight making the bar too tight? Thanks.
 
When ya tighten the clutch cover, this also tightens the chain a bit more.

Ya have to adjust your chain tightening procedure and get it right.
 
The chain being tight on the bar is probably completely unrelated to the amount of torque you put on the clutch cover nuts.

Check the following:

1. Your chain brake. ie, engage it and then release it. Is it working properly? Just because you checked it earlier doesn't mean it isn't engaged now.

2. Make sure the bar and chain are getting oiled. If they are dry it can cause binding.

3. If the chain is still tight, try removing the bar and chain and then check the nose sprocket on the bar. This should be able to spin easily by hand (sometimes they get jammed up)

4. Check the clutch/sprocket area. This should also spin freely by hand. (if the saw has been running this may be VERY HOT so be careful) Something may have broken or junk can bind it up.

5. When you put it all back together make sure you don't tension the chain too tightly. in the middle of the bar you should be able to pull the chain drivers out of the bar to the point you can barely see the bottom of the drive links and when you release it, it should snap back tight. This will vary a bit depending on how long the bar is. You did clean out the bar groove with a small screwdriver or the edge of a putty knife? That needs to be clean for several reasons.

6. Be aware that the chain tension can vary with the temperature of the chain and bar. A dull chain will get hotter than it should and can heat up the bar and even saw parts causing damage if you press the issue. A chain should always be kept sharp. Don't look at "just a few more cuts" and think it is ok to burn through them with a dull chain. Either sharpen it or come back later when you are equipped properly. If you tension the chain while it is hot, back off the tension when you're done cutting or the contraction upon cooling can damage your crank/clutch.
 
Ok, thanks for the quick replies...Here is what I got...Oregon 20LPX072G on Husky 345 18" bar and pitch is right at 325. Here is some more numbers: 20LP/72/325"/.050"/1.3mm I just took my old chain in and this is what the guy sold me.
Didn't start to bind until I put on new chain.
Another question: Can I get away with switching to a 20" bar?
 
Any chance he doesn't have an NK chain and it's binding?

A NK bar with a standard chain on can cause binding issues, if the tolerances are working against you, but it isn't common at all - and it would have showed up before he started to cut.
Such an issue is easily overcome by using thin spacers btw.
 
Ok, thanks for the quick replies...Here is what I got...Oregon 20LPX072G on Husky 345 18" bar and pitch is right at 325. Here is some more numbers: 20LP/72/325"/.050"/1.3mm I just took my old chain in and this is what the guy sold me.
Didn't start to bind until I put on new chain.
Another question: Can I get away with switching to a 20" bar?

Depends on what you mean by "can" - an 18" is already more than I would normally recommend on that saw.

Looks like you got the right chain (but note my post above) - but if the bar is an NK one, that standard chain (as opposed to NK) isn't really recommended (see my post above).......
 
Depends on what you mean by "can" - an 18" is already more than I would normally recommend on that saw.

Looks like you got the right chain (but note my post above) - but if the bar is an NK one, that standard chain (as opposed to NK) isn't really recommended (see my post above).......

What is a NK bar?
 
What is a NK bar?
Narrow Kerf bars - they are thinner than the regular (non-NK) ones, and specially designed for the 95VP(X)/H30 chain, that has less wide cutters than standard .325 chain.

20LP(X) and other non-NK .050 chain can usually be run on them though - but now and then the toleranses are against you, and the wider cutters of the non-NK chain binds between the clutch cover and the saw body.
 
"20LP(X) and other non-NK .050 chain can usually be run on them though - but now and then the toleranses are against you, and the wider cutters of the non-NK chain binds between the clutch cover and the saw body."

Yep, that sounds like my problem.
 
If that is not the trouble, take a close look at your sprocket and your oil flow.

If you put a new chain on a shot sprocket, it can give you trouble, as well as the chain not getting enough oil.
 
Took cover off again and checked everything out. Made sure nothing was kinked up. Chain moved freely. Put cover back on tight without serious wrenching down on it. Engaged/disengaged chain brake. Fired it up and for now runs perfect. Haven't cut with it yet. I got this Husky 61 that I just brought home to play with. I'm gonna have some fun now! :chainsaw:
 
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