Husky 350 muffler bolts?

[Bushbow]

Ok. One of my 350 bolts stripped out the case. Everything else is mint but the bolts are not long enough to seat deeply and only grab a few threads, hence the issue. Bolts are 3.5". Do they make a 3.75 or 4" bolt? Where can I get some?

Any other options for this issue?

Thanks for any help

 

[blsnelling]

It stripped out in the cylinder?

 

[Bushbow]

Stripped out in the case. The aluminum and onlybthe first few threads because that's all the OEM bolt reaches. There is plenty of thread beyond that and available to secure the muffler if I had longer bolts. I've spoken with Bailys and will stop by the husky dealer but assumed others have had this issue as the vibration and muffler bolt thing is a known issue. I do/did and will continue to use lock tite but it finally was not enough.

 

[cus_deluxe]

Youll want to measure those in mm, not inches. If its stripped out the threads in the cylinder youll have a little work to do, not sure if theres enough meat to go to m6.

 

[cus_deluxe]

Looks like those are 90mm. Look for 95 or 100 mm m5 x .8

 

[cus_deluxe]

Still dont get it tho, the only bolt into the "case" is on the little muffler support, into plastic on the 350, im pretty sure. The two long ones go through muffler into cylinder

 

[cus_deluxe]

I needed muff bolts for a 262 and picked em up at a local fastener company for about $1.50 for both, about a third what a dealer wanted

 

[Wood Doctor]

In times past I have been successful in making my own muffler bolts with steel rod. Thread both ends about a half inch and use a castle nut on the end standing proud of the muffler for your wrench. That way you can cut the shop-made bolt to the exact length that you need. There may be some trial and error involved, but you can do it.

 

[grizz55chev]

I needed muff bolts for a 262 and picked em up at a local fastener company for about $1.50 for both, about a third what a dealer wanted

+1, works like a charm.

 

[Bushbow]

I apologize. I did not mean the case. I meant the cylinder - my bad. I will look for them at another dealer or machine shop fastener store. Just figured others would likely have seen this issue.

Thanks for the info

Bob

 

[astnmacgto]

Believe it or not, there is still still plenty of meat if you want to helicoil them at 1/4 20 previous owner really did a number on my cylinder

 

[BigDee]

My local Home depot now carries more metric hardware in the drawers. I recently bought a pair of SS 90mm M6 for a 262 there, but I am not sure if they have longer ones. Phillips head.

 

[BigDee]

Believe it or not, there is still still plenty of meat if you want to helicoil them at 1/4 20 previous owner really did a number on my cylinder

I have a 350 with 1/4-20s threaded directly into the cylinder. Works just fine.

 

[mga]

that damn muffler and bolts have always been a problem with the 350, so i'm told.

had the same issue...they stripped out and are only held in by a couple of threads. I talked to husky about that a few years ago and they wanted to sell me a modified muffler that corrects the problem. it just had three mounting bolts instead of two.

I had to put heli coils in the head and get longer bolts, but they still vibrated loose. so, I tightened them all up again and tack welded a nail across the bolt heads to keep them from turning. been like that for a few years and have not come loose yet.

just buy longer bolts and cut them to a longer size than the OEM one's.

 

[astnmacgto]

that damn muffler and bolts have always been a problem with the 350, so i'm told.

had the same issue...they stripped out and are only held in by a couple of threads. I talked to husky about that a few years ago and they wanted to sell me a modified muffler that corrects the problem. it just had three mounting bolts instead of two.

I had to put heli coils in the head and get longer bolts, but they still vibrated loose. so, I tightened them all up again and tack welded a nail across the bolt heads to keep them from turning. been like that for a few years and have not come loose yet.

just buy longer bolts and cut them to a longer size than the OEM one's.

That's a good idea, or if you have small number drills you can tie wire the heads together

 

[mga]

That's a good idea, or if you have small number drills you can tie wire the heads together

I was going to try that, but the bolts are case hardened and being small it was hard to do. so, went with the welder.

 

[grizz55chev]

I was going to try that, but the bolts are case hardened and being small it was hard to do. so, went with the welder.

Put the 3$ muffler brace on it, tighten the bolts after they get hot, cut wood.

 

[Bushbow]

Yes. They are vibrating buggers and I've always had them glued in w lock tight but even that gave up on the Lowe bolt. I'll figure it out. The saw is mint and well worth the trouble. lb for lb and dollar for power this is one of the best firewood saws ever made. Does it have a few PIA things. Yup. When it cuts do you care. Nope.

I will stop by my husk dealer today. If they not have it there are plenty of good solutions on here I can employ including the tack weld. Very good idea.

 

[mga]

Put the 3$ muffler brace on it, tighten the bolts after they get hot, cut wood.

I made a brace as per instruction from a guy on here. it helps keep the muffler from vibrating, but, those screws did come loose, that's why I welded them. if I need to ever remove it, I just have to grind the weld off. again, they're only tacked.

 

[Wood Doctor]

My Husky 350 muffler bolts have never come loose. I see the warnings placed by others on the Internet, this thread, and I check them occasionally. But, they have never come loose. Could it be that the factory never tightened several production runs enough to begin with about 12 years ago?