Husky 359 lacking balls

[lobsterlogger]

I have asked this before but Im gonna ask again. How would a beautiful, light use, never abused, 359 have very little power? I have 2 of these saws. 1 screams, 1 sucks. It has sucked since I bought it, so I seldom use it and always grab a different one. I purchased form a older gentlemen that may have ran 10 tanks through it in the first 10 years of its life. I recently wanted to either improve it or sell it. Its a mint condiiton saw, that has always had a slight drag or tight clutch. Some spin incredibly easy, some spin hard no matter what the bar oiler is set to, or how lose the chain is on the bar. This one has always been tight or hard spinning, like my 346 is. Even after changing the clutch, its still tight. I recently deleted the base gasket and put in a pop up piston. There was zero wrong with the other piston, but I read it would increase combustion pressure and would increase power slightly. A cheap date so to speak. After putting 3 or 4 hours into this saw, it is still nut less. It is tuned to 13k before and after the little experiment I tried. And its a 3/8 18in bar. Anyone have any guesses.
I want to add that my 346xp can out cut this saw about anytime. And that shouldn't happen in 24in spruce I would think.
Should it be ported and handed off to a pro to see if they can get this thing humming? Or can I put a 357xp top end on it and somehow gain some power? Aren't they kind of the same animal? Just not impressed how quick this thing bogs down in the cut.

 

[Tigwelder83]

You got to have carb issues or something mr. I have ran 346, own 550, 359, 372. The 359 is almost as much saw as the 372. Run a 20" on it, love the saw.

 

[ATH]

Agree...replace the carb. Does it have a green fuel cap? Does your other 359?. If so, you might also replace the muffler with a non-catalytic muffler (and then re-tune)

 

[lobsterlogger]

I have changed to the less restrictive muffler. I keep thinking it is clutch related in part. The 10-20% that my weak 359 lacks from the other 359 saw, I think is how hard the chain is pulling. Just seems strange that this chain stops spinning the second I let off the throttle. It's like the clutch or crank is taking some of its steam away. If that makes any sense to you. Bar chain and clutch all seem normal though. Puzzling

 

[flxblx]

Another possible problem could be a dragging chain brake. My 359 got to having power problems. The brake mechanism under the plastic cover was packed with saw dust and oil enough that the chain brake would not fully release. The brake handle clicked back and forth just fine, but dirt would not let brake band fully release.

 

[cookies]

since you have two of the saws try swapping the coils then the carbs, my bet is in one of them being the isse or a plugged filter

 

[chipper1]

A cheap date so to speak.

So you're saying you got screwed on the deal.

since you have two of the saws try swapping the coils then the carbs, my bet is in one of them being the isse or a plugged filter

This.
Start swapping parts, one part at a time so you know what is going on.
If the chain stops spinning quicker than your other saw, it's likely that could be part of the problem.
Swap the bar and chain, maybe you have the wrong size chain.

Does the clutch spin freely with the bar and chain removed.

 

[lobsterlogger]

Yes it does I will look into that when I get back home. Never thought of it. It has so few hours it seems unlikely but will try anything to rejuvenate this thing thanks for info

 

[J D]

I recall this discussion previously... carb etc aside, if you think it is binding somewhere here are some
simple things to check that won't cost anything...
Remove plug & pull saw over noting it's resistance & compare this to your good 359.
Remove clutch cover & repeat pulling over.
Remove clutch assembly & repeat pulling over.
Remove oil pump assembly & repeat pulling over.
Refit oil pump & clutch & use clutch to turn saw over noting resistance.
Remove starter & repeat using clutch to turn saw over.
Remove coil & repeat using clutch to turn saw over.
Remove flywheel & repeat using clutch to turn saw over.
If it is actually stiff to turn over & remains throughout, at that point it would have to be something internal (bearings/stuffers/crank etc)

 

[holeycow]

No balls? Maybe it's a girl saw.

 

[ElevatorGuy]

No balls? Maybe it's a girl saw.

Correct, It’s a husky!

 

[chipper1]

Correct, It’s a husky!

Mine ran well today, which is normal, she's a good girl lol.

 

[nwhunter]

This thread makes me want to start my 359 and cut something, I can't remember when I last ran her. Nothing wrong with my saw. Many, many hours on her with the original top end, even though I did go for a muffler mod several years ago. She has just fell out of the rotation for no real good reason. I seem to grab a 550 first, 55 second, 555 third and then jump to a 372 or 375. But a good running 359 is a great saw. You have some good suggestions, let us know what you find out.

 

[cookies]

Some of the smaller cheaper saws running zama carbs that are right on the edge of being too small for the engine can be a huge pta to dial in correctly requiring 3+ turns out to get enough fuel delivery. I did one the other day that had no grunt, would rev out great but wouldent cut for shlt under load. It took 30 minutes and a dozen cuts to get the high needle set right. I am starting to put butyl fuel pumps in theses setups to up their fuel output bringing the needle adjustments back down to under 2 turns on most making tuning much faster and easier.