Husky 365 warms up fine, bogs down at idle when warm

[Liam Cremin]

Hey All, I've got a Husky 365 that's giving me issues. It will start up no problem and revs up with no issues when it's cold. Once the saw warms up it idles fine, but when you go to throttle it just bogs down and backfires. I've tried cleaning the carb, and various other things with no luck. Any ideas? cheers!

 

[Westboastfaller]

What kind of 365?..sound like an X torque. And would you care to share what 'Various other things' as its a process of elimination. So basically what did we eliminate again?

 

[Liam Cremin]

What kind of 365?..sound like an X torque. And would you care to share what 'Various other things' as its a process of elimination. So basically what did we eliminate again?

The saw is a regular 365 NON xtorque. I changed the fuel line and the filter, changed the gas to a fresh mix, cleaned and tried tuning the carb, and changed the rubber intake boot (square style)

 

[old guy]

Did you try opening the low screw? (counterclockwise),sounds like it may be lean.

 

[Liam Cremin]

Did you try opening the low screw? (counterclockwise),sounds like it may be lean.

I did, it almost seemed like it was running rich, so I tried going to either extreme of the screw and working in a turn each way. No luck there..

 

[Westboastfaller]

Welcome to the site. Yes it will definitely cough if its passing the sweet spot go back a 1/4 turn. But if you are passing the sweet spot then it will cough on idle too. Other than that it should just give it a delayed tip response and hard starting.
Have you not changed the spark plug? And is it bogging...like "whah whah whah? ... When you feather the trigger or is it back firing?

 

[Westboastfaller]

Just going to get a few things out of the way instead of asking a bunch of questions. Make sure that impulse line is on tight bad compression will bog in the wood. Let's not try fix a flat saw. If you have a compression tester then test it. I'f not??? Make sure your decompression is not in.
Is the bar and chain on?? Grab it by the pull cord and let it drop..that's holding on to the the cord still...lol
Dose it hold on a couple of seconds on the stroke or drop under a second. per stroke?

 

[Liam Cremin]

Welcome to the site. Yes it will definitely cough if its passing the sweet spot go back a 1/4 turn. But if you are passing the sweet spot then it will cough on idle too. Other than that it should just give it a delayed tip response and hard starting.
Have you not changed the spark plug? And is it bogging...like "whah whah whah? ... When you feather the trigger or is it back firing?

The saw idles just fine. It will "whah whah whah" if I give it full throttle. If I try and feather it I just get a backfire and it dies. I'll try and play with the tuning some more. Any reason as to why this only happens once the saw warms up?

 

[Liam Cremin]

Just going to get a few things out of the way instead of asking a bunch of questions. Make sure that impulse line is on tight bad compression will bog in the wood. Let's not try fix a flat saw. If you have a compression tester then test it. I'f not??? Make sure your decompression is not in.
Is the bar and chain on?? Grab it by the pull cord and let it drop..that's holding on to the the cord still...lol
Dose it hold on a couple of seconds on the stroke or drop under a second. per stroke?

I'll check all this out tomorrow. I don't have a compression tester on hand but should be able to get ahold of one. I've been doing all this testing with the bar and chain off..

 

[Westboastfaller]

Yes lots of reasons why it will do that when it warms up. spark plug can be one reason..always have a spare plug. That's the first thing I do
I don't Start a thread, I try a plug..
.lol
Lots of people do that and haven't tried a new plug. Anyway. Plugs fail when they get hot and under compression as do coils. the coil may be going out. Any gas coming out of the front of the exhaust? and back?
Sometimes they go out of time.
Make sure that impulse is good.
Can be a few things or a few things together in a worst case scenario. may see if you can film a video of it running so then there is nothing lost in translation. Its how we see it.

Get a plug and welcome to the site

 

[Charlie Pendleton]

I recently had a huztl 372 doing the same thing after it warms up. I found the ignition coil wasn't gapped correctly to the flywheel also the plug wire at the top of the ignition coil had been rubbing on the brake pivot. After readjusting saw runs great

 

[Westboastfaller]

I recently had a huztl 372 doing the same thing after it warms up. I found the ignition coil wasn't gapped correctly to the flywheel also the plug wire at the top of the ignition coil had been rubbing on the brake pivot. After readjusting saw runs great

?

I'm interested to see what it is. Pretty certain its in the spark or timing.
I've had many coil wires ark on the cylinder and just miss. Those Chinese ones will cut out when they get wet. Other than that, complete failed wires to no return. Perhaps another stage of deterioration.
Not really accostumed to lower wire damage personally or poor gapping issues. I've had lots come loose then one bolt jump out and temporary seize the saw but that seems to happen before they both come loose.


That wouldn't happen to be a Chinese one piece non rev limited coil? Another difference with them is both holes are oversized to the bolt shafts which can drastically changes things.

 

[Westboastfaller]

The only other thing that 3/4 fits the symptoms is the impulse but it will usually wind up eventually with 371/365/372 but then starve in the cut.
If he changed the manifold then he may have had it off. I had a loose fitting one that I didn't trim back and naturally leaked more as it warmed up.

 

[Charlie Pendleton]

?

I'm interested to see what it is. Pretty certain its in the spark or timing.
I've had many coil wires ark on the cylinder and just miss. Those Chinese ones will cut out when they get wet. Other than that, complete failed wires to no return. Perhaps another stage of deterioration.
Not really accostumed to lower wire damage personally or poor gapping issues. I've had lots come loose then one bolt jump out and temporary seize the saw but that seems to happen before they both come loose.


That wouldn't happen to be a Chinese one piece non rev limited coil? Another difference with them is both holes are oversized to the bolt shafts which can drastically changes things.

It is non rev limited, the fit is really tight right where the wire comes out of the coil and rubs hard on the break pivot. The coil gap was a bit uneven (wider at the top) I gapped it even and have the wire more slack so not so tight against the pivot. Not sure which was the culprit but it fixed it. Symptoms of the 2 saws are identical sounding. His may have a completely different issue but something to check.

 

[Charlie Pendleton]

It is non rev limited, the fit is really tight right where the wire comes out of the coil and rubs hard on the break pivot. The coil gap was a bit uneven (wider at the top) I gapped it even and have the wire more slack so not so tight against the pivot. Not sure which was the culprit but it fixed it. Symptoms of the 2 saws are identical sounding. His may have a completely different issue but something to check.

Also the Chinese wires feel like a much softer rubber wire coating which gets soft when warm so I imagine arking could happen much easier. I wire loomed it.
Again just a consideration. I'm interested in the outcome as well.

 

[Big Block]

Sounds lean to me

 

[Matto]

It will "whah whah whah" if I give it full throttle. If I try and feather it I just get a backfire and it dies.

Sounds verry lean... have you tried opening the H screw?

 

[Liam Cremin]

I haven't had time to get ahold of a compression tester, but Holding the cord and dropping the saw results in 2-3 seconds between compressions. I have tried tuning the saw every which way possible, and have had no luck. I also changed the impulse line and cleaned the plug. I'll be getting a new plug tomorrow. Still no luck.

 

[Liam Cremin]

Also I checked on the wiring from the coil pack and didn't notice any chafing or issues but I'm not ruling it out

 

[Westboastfaller]

I haven't had time to get ahold of a compression tester, but Holding the cord and dropping the saw results in 2-3 seconds between compressions. I have tried tuning the saw every which way possible, and have had no luck. I also changed the impulse line and cleaned the plug. I'll be getting a new plug tomorrow. Still no luck.

sounds like its got compression. Sounds good anyway.
Knocking them of one at a time.