Husky 385XP ?

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StIhL MaGnUm

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Do you guy's think that I should change sprockets when going from 20" bar to a 32" bar??I probally know what your answers are gonna be but I figured I ask anyway.If I should then what tooth count sprocket should I use??Any advice would be appreciated.


Thanks for your help Guy's
Rob..
 
for that saw, I'd figure an 8 tooth would be fine at maybe 28 bar length, 24 for sure. over that 7 tooth.

But Husky's rely on chain speed a bit more than torque, so the 7 tooth may be better. I tried an 8 tooth on my walkerized 372-28 inch bar, and went back to 7 tooth. Too much chain speed dropped the torque too low, I think.
 
Thanks for the advice Rb,what gauge chain do most of you guy's run with the bigger 28" + bars??.050,.058,.063,I always wanted to ask you guy's that question,I've been running .050 with the 20" but I was thinking about trying like .058,or .063 on the 32",what do you guy's think.

One other question what do you guy's think about that Baileys "Woodsman Pro" chain,is it any good??Or should I just stick with Oregon..

thanks for the help
Rob..
 
.058 and .050 are the same size cutter, just bigger tangs. .050 should be fine, unless you are going to really really get the chain hot
 
My longest bar is 28" .063. I chose .063 because that's what was on e-bay for $24.00 (Oregon powermatch plus, new). I have a few loops of Woodsman Pro chain, it's really carlton chain, not outstanding chain just ok.
 
i run a stock 385xp with a 28 in bar and i think its a nice combo. for a 32 in bar i use a 394. i've never played with different toothed spockets yet. i use .050 on 357/371/288/385/ 394- 036/044/066. i like to keep it simple so i could swap chains easy.
 
Hi there, I like to run 7 pin sprockets on all my woodsaws, except for the 088 that Ken Dunn built me, for which I run an 8 tooth.
With the 7 pin, chain throws are not as frequent nor as violent.
Your chain should be shortend to the minimum drivers as possible, while still allowing the oil holes to match up. This way the heel of the bar is running closer to the sprocket, reducing chain slap, bar wear and chain throws.
Hope this helps,
Gypo
 
Thanks for the tip, John, on keeping the bar close to the sprocket..
 
Thanks for all the advice guy's I appreciate it.Looks like it will be a 7 tooth ,w/.058" . I have never run .404 chain how is it?

Thnaks Again
Rob.
 
'id suggest .050 gauge, thinner and lighter, probably cuts faster. I use it on all my 3/8th pitch chain, almost never have a breakage problem.
 
Who know's where I can get a Full Comp Oregon LG chain for my 32" bar???All I see is Full Skip for 28" +..

Thanks for the advice Rb..

Rob..
 
Call Bailey's and ask them. They have lots of chain not in catalog.

The chain I use and recommend is semi skip, although for 32 inch bar, i use full skip. But I cut softwoods over 60% of the time. Full comp apparently cuts a little faster, skip does a better job of clearing chips frome the kerf. Faster to sharpen less cutters....
 
Thanks for the link jokers,works good,I'm looking for some round ground chisel chain in "semi skip"???

Could I buy it in a pre cut loop,or by the link??
 
Hi again Magnum, you can have it either way. They will spin loops for you or they have many sizes precut. They also have some pretty good roll prices, and you being from out of state would escape sales tax, I believe. Shipping through them is reasonable. Russ
 
I sure am Glad I took the last two days off because it's been 93* in the shade up here in New Hampshire,pretty rough cuttin' weather if you ask me.I'm sure Doug know's all about it.

Later Rob
 

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