chaugnar
ArboristSite Lurker
I use my 395 24"bar on alot of small wood.it has a 8t sprocket but I still have to push it to cut fast.is a 9tooth to much for firewood cutting?
Husky 395 and small wood ?
- Thread starter chaugnar
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Have a long time logger sharpen your chain. Chain, chain, chain some of the good ones will self feed. No push at all. Mike
Ryan'smilling
Addicted to ArboristSite
When you say small wood, what are you talking about exactly?
A stock 395 might pull a 9 pin with a 25" bar in softwood okay, but anything over an 8 gets a little hairy on a regular bar. Because of the larger sprocket diameter the chain spends more time out of the bar groove between the bar and the sprocket and it's moving quite a bit faster. So, it's much more likely to throw a chain. People modify bars to run larger sprockets safely.
Beyond the safety issue, I don't think it'll gain much for you on a stock saw. If you are cutting under 10" wood maybe, but if so, you should switch to a smaller saw. Something like a ported 60cc saw with an 8 pin would absolutely fly through that stuff. Maybe faster than a 395 even because it'll turn higher rpms (assuming you're using the same chain).
But, if you're talking about 20"+ wood as being small, then I'm all in favor of the 395. Probably still overkill, but if you set up a chain right, like rupedoggy is talking about, you can have a real nice time making firewood. Of course there are safety concerns there too. I love me an overpowered saw with low rakers and the way that they pull the saw though a log, but WATCH THE TIP! Low rakers like that will make the saw much more likely to kick back. It will also usually increase the vibrations you feel.
If you really want to optimize cutting speed, running square filed (or ground) chain will give you a lot of gains and not increase vibration, probably reduce it actually. Some guys claim longer edge retention too, although you gotta put in some time at the chain vise before you gain anything, and even after you've learned, it still takes a fair amount longer than round filing.
A stock 395 might pull a 9 pin with a 25" bar in softwood okay, but anything over an 8 gets a little hairy on a regular bar. Because of the larger sprocket diameter the chain spends more time out of the bar groove between the bar and the sprocket and it's moving quite a bit faster. So, it's much more likely to throw a chain. People modify bars to run larger sprockets safely.
Beyond the safety issue, I don't think it'll gain much for you on a stock saw. If you are cutting under 10" wood maybe, but if so, you should switch to a smaller saw. Something like a ported 60cc saw with an 8 pin would absolutely fly through that stuff. Maybe faster than a 395 even because it'll turn higher rpms (assuming you're using the same chain).
But, if you're talking about 20"+ wood as being small, then I'm all in favor of the 395. Probably still overkill, but if you set up a chain right, like rupedoggy is talking about, you can have a real nice time making firewood. Of course there are safety concerns there too. I love me an overpowered saw with low rakers and the way that they pull the saw though a log, but WATCH THE TIP! Low rakers like that will make the saw much more likely to kick back. It will also usually increase the vibrations you feel.
If you really want to optimize cutting speed, running square filed (or ground) chain will give you a lot of gains and not increase vibration, probably reduce it actually. Some guys claim longer edge retention too, although you gotta put in some time at the chain vise before you gain anything, and even after you've learned, it still takes a fair amount longer than round filing.
chaugnar
ArboristSite Lurker
I want to try square chain.have you used goofy files.is it easier.i have a 24"narrow kerf bar but it is for milling.it does crosscut real fast.
Ryan'smilling
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've only used the double bevel files. It's not rocket science, but it does take some getting used to.
chaugnar
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks guys .I really do love this saw.
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Chisel chain? Raker depth set right.?
Get a file n guide for 3/8” chain that’s a 7/32” file. Hog out the arc under the cutting edge. Now put a 1/4” round file in the file n guide and sharpen the upper cutting edge. Then set your rakers. The teeth need to be razor sharp to cut correctly.
Get a file n guide for 3/8” chain that’s a 7/32” file. Hog out the arc under the cutting edge. Now put a 1/4” round file in the file n guide and sharpen the upper cutting edge. Then set your rakers. The teeth need to be razor sharp to cut correctly.
