Husky runs ruff!

[Husky Joe]

Bought my Husky 359 almost a year ago and it's run great so far and I've enjoyed the mods. Other than a bar sprocket that seems to get bogged down with sawdust, everything's been fine and it hasn't been back to the shop yet. I changed the spark plug about a month ago. The shop where I bought it didn't have NGK so I settled for a Champion. I went out Sunday to Buck up some fallen logs and it ran pretty rough, mostly when idling. Sometimes at idle, it would suddenly start idling faster and then stall. I took a screwdriver to the low jet and idle screw and it seemed to run better after that but I didn't let it idle much. As long as I was bucking, everything was great but as soon as I backed off it would idle, then faster for 5-10 seconds and then die. What would cause this sudden condition?

 

[willsaw4beer]

If it's under warranty take it back to the dealer. Why change the spark plug already, I've found saws with 25 y/o sparkplugs that run great...

I would think your problems have something to do with bad gas/ water in the carb. That or needing a carb adjustment. Also, check from the fuel filter to the intake port and make sure everything is tight, no cracks, etc.

 

[Husky Joe]

Heck, my manual said the spark plug should be replaced after one month (I didn't understand either!!!).

 

[Justsaws]

Sometimes at idle, it would suddenly start idling faster and then stall. I took a screwdriver to the low jet and idle screw and it seemed to run better after that but I didn't let it idle much. As long as I was bucking, everything was great but as soon as I backed off it would idle, then faster for 5-10 seconds and then die. What would cause this sudden condition?

Tank vent is plugged up. Usually takes a lot of pulls even with choke on to start back up until the saw has cooled off or the gas cap has been removed.

Air leak. Usually will start back easily on choke.

Bad carb. Will not hold a setting and runs out. Hard to start.

This series of saws has had issues with carbs, boots, boot clamps, and vents. It certainly should not have required a new plug yet. If the warranty is still valid you should probably take it in.

You should not use the saw until the issue is resolved as it is leaning out and that will eventually ruin the piston and cylinder.

 

[Evan]

yes get it fixed

does it still burble on the top end.

sounds to me like gummed up carb.

you said its modded. mine ran funny when the muffler wasnt sealeing to cylinder, it realy dislike that leak

 

[fourfivefour]

You should not use the saw until the issue is resolved as it is leaning out and that will eventually ruin the piston and cylinder.

:agree2: Very good idea.
Try your old plug.
You may want to check for an air leak. If you have the plastic intake clamp it may of broke.
Your carb may need a kit if there are no air leaks.

 

[Husky Joe]

Hmmm... I'm leaning (hoping) toward the tank vent being plugged. I think it's on the right side of the saw (???). Would not start easily at least once or twice without the choke and then with the choke engaged. For the most part, after stalling, it would fire up and go again but I did have at least one good yankfest where it didn't want to start.

 

[blsnelling]

Put the old plug back in it and see if the problem goes away.

A plugged tank vent wouldn't allow it to run at high RPMs but not idle.

 

[blis]

most likely your new plug just doesnt work on your saw, its well known fact that some huskies are quite picky about what brand of sparkplugs you run in them...

 

[Husky Joe]

Just called my local repair shop. He doesn't sell NGK but says he's been running Bosch spark plugs. Any issues with that?
I'm going to grab a fuel filter too. Where's the dang vent on this thing? I thought the stealership showed it to me on the right side when I bought it but now I can't find it (if it's there anyway). I don't think these new "environmentally friendly" gas caps are vented either, are they?

 

[PB]

Just called my local repair shop. He doesn't sell NGK but says he's been running Bosch spark plugs. Any issues with that?
I'm going to grab a fuel filter too. Where's the dang vent on this thing? I thought the stealership showed it to me on the right side when I bought it but now I can't find it (if it's there anyway). I don't think these new "environmentally friendly" gas caps are vented either, are they?

caps are not vented.

When you get it running have you changed the position of the saw to see if it idles differently?

 

[blsnelling]

Only change one thing at a time. Logically, the only thing that has changed since it ran right is the spark plug. That's where you start. If you still have the plug you took out, put it back. If not, replace it with the exact plug.

 

[Husky Joe]

I think I pitched the old one.

 

[PB]

I think I pitched the old one.

You need an NGK BPMR7A, or BPM7A. It should be the same plug in your 340 as well.

Bosch WRS5F, or WS5F

 

[PB]

Only change one thing at a time. Logically, the only thing that has changed since it ran right is the spark plug. That's where you start. If you still have the plug you took out, put it back. If not, replace it with the exact plug.

A bad spark plug wouldn't make it idle faster would it? Spark has nothing to do with lean conditions, maybe a rough idle but it wouldn't increase the idle rpms. Right?

 

[blsnelling]

A bad spark plug wouldn't make it idle faster would it? Spark has nothing to do with lean conditions, maybe a rough idle but it wouldn't increase the idle rpms. Right?

I agree, but I'd still start with the only known thing changed.

 

[Husky Joe]

I think to richen the fuel mixture, I would turn the low-jet screw counterclockwise. I don't want to mess with the hi-jet, since that was set when I got it tached. You feel me on this? This does seem to be a fuel issue more than ignition, but again, I don't know what would have changed any settings.

 

[blsnelling]

Yes, counterclockwise will richen it. However, that will change your H setting as well. WOT fuel is the sum of the L and H fuel.

 

[PB]

I think to richen the fuel mixture, I would turn the low-jet screw counterclockwise. I don't want to mess with the hi-jet, since that was set when I got it tached. You feel me on this? This does seem to be a fuel issue more than ignition, but again, I don't know what would have changed any settings.

If it is under warranty, take it back to the shop. Adjusting the carb will cover up the problem, not fix it.

 

[PB]

Tank vent is plugged up. Usually takes a lot of pulls even with choke on to start back up until the saw has cooled off or the gas cap has been removed.

Air leak. Usually will start back easily on choke.

Bad carb. Will not hold a setting and runs out. Hard to start.

This series of saws has had issues with carbs, boots, boot clamps, and vents. It certainly should not have required a new plug yet. If the warranty is still valid you should probably take it in.

You should not use the saw until the issue is resolved as it is leaning out and that will eventually ruin the piston and cylinder.

This is the best advice.