darren_palms
ArboristSite Member
Where at on the tilloston carb on a 2100 is the governer at? Everyone says that is you block it you can change the carb max settings. Is this good or bad? Should you leave the governer alone?
Husqvarna 2100 governer
- Thread starter darren_palms
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dozerdan
Addicted to ArboristSite
The governor is on the clutch side of the carb. It will look like a large brass screw. Remove that brass lookin thingy and block off the small hole in the carb body. Use something that fits the hole well. You can cut up an old carb diaphragm, I use a small welch plug left over from carb kits.
If you dont like the way it runs just remove whatever you installed.
Later
Dan
darren_palms
ArboristSite Member
Thanks for the reply! I remember trying to remove it before...man is that sucker in there but I can get it out. Does it run a lot better without it?
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
The H side tune stays more consistent after the governor is blocked off in these HS carbs. I don't have experience blocking off the gov in a 2100/2101, but I have blocked them off on Homelites and Poulans that use the same style governed Tillotson HS carbs.
gov
block #4 hole only. the arrows at #3 are also the passage that supplies the high speed jet.
a husky mechanic from that era said the 2100 was not hard to seize and the gov was a prudent precaution. given the availability and price of parts i would heed his advice.
block #4 hole only. the arrows at #3 are also the passage that supplies the high speed jet.
a husky mechanic from that era said the 2100 was not hard to seize and the gov was a prudent precaution. given the availability and price of parts i would heed his advice.
nmurph
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I have blocked them off on several 288's without a problem and I can't see where it would make them any more prone to leaning out if the carb is tuned correctly.
dozerdan
Addicted to ArboristSite
Those governors have probably helped fry more good saws then they have ever saved.
nyhof
ArboristSite Lurker
which way is better..???
i too blocked mine...2100,288,281...iam no expert but,when i got my 288 used, the guy had it checked at a dealer (tach)....new piston & cyclinder...good to go right....when i looked the saw over i missed the governor..hidden behind the ign.module..the saw was using 50:1 ratio....i used my 32:1 mix to try this saw out....the saw ran great...4 stroking heavy out of the cut...started cutting some big maple and this things just screaming..sounded like it was leaning out just a tad...still 4 stroking hard out of the cut...so i lean it out...still 4 stroking...wtf...check the plug...scary white...thats when i realized its got a governor......
to help answer the op..question...my question is.....would it make them more prone to leaning out if you leave the governor alone..???? or should you just get used to tuning it in the cut...????
i too blocked mine...2100,288,281...iam no expert but,when i got my 288 used, the guy had it checked at a dealer (tach)....new piston & cyclinder...good to go right....when i looked the saw over i missed the governor..hidden behind the ign.module..the saw was using 50:1 ratio....i used my 32:1 mix to try this saw out....the saw ran great...4 stroking heavy out of the cut...started cutting some big maple and this things just screaming..sounded like it was leaning out just a tad...still 4 stroking hard out of the cut...so i lean it out...still 4 stroking...wtf...check the plug...scary white...thats when i realized its got a governor......
to help answer the op..question...my question is.....would it make them more prone to leaning out if you leave the governor alone..???? or should you just get used to tuning it in the cut...????
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
The governor doesn't make the saw more or less prone to 'leaning out'. What it can do is fool you (or me or anyone else trying to tune these saws) into tuning the saw too lean (as happened in your own example). These governors work by opening up and richening the H side mixture when RPM's reach a certain point. That can fool you into thinking that the saw is still rich when tuning the H side at WOT. Gotta tune them in the wood to be sure.
Also, the governor valve can leak (by the spring getting weak and letting the ball come off the seat at the wrong times and/or by the ball/seat leaking due to wear....or by 'gunk' holding the ball off of the seat). This also messes up your attempts to tune the saw.
You're right about the governor being 'hidden' on the 281/288 saws. If the carb has a covering of oil/dust/fuzz, there's no way to see the bastard. It's down low on the right side of the carb, just in front of the choke shaft. I was looking at an IPL for a late production 288XP and it didn't have the external governor valve at all. Had the internal high speed check valve in the metering chamber instead. My saw has the external governor.
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I've run the 2100 professionally with and without the governor mod. The real caveat here as already mentioned, is your grasp on tuning the saw's high speed jet for the deep cut. Blocking the governor is supposed to increase the RPM. Can't vouch for that because I never played with a tach on the saw. Most of us in big timber back in the day did this mod. Endlessly revving your saw without being in a deep cut would not be a good thing with this mod.....like cutting small diameter firewood, slashing etc.
Kevin
Kevin
block #4 hole only. the arrows at #3 are also the passage that supplies the high speed jet.
a husky mechanic from that era said the 2100 was not hard to seize and the gov was a prudent precaution. given the availability and price of parts i would heed his advice.
I have an idea of what the governor "might" do, but I'm not tellin.....
Does any one "know" how it functions and is willing to tell.
Thanks
It's not voodoo...when the saw(from factory) is running near its designed max RPM(8,500), fuel is dumped into the carb venturi through hole #4, causing the saw to four-stroke and limit RPM.
Kevin
from the shop manual :
Speed governor
The purpose of the governor is to limit the engine
speed in order to protect vital parts like the crankshaft
and ignition system from excessive stresses.( they seem to have forgotten piston seizing !)
We therefore advise most strongly against any interference
designed to render it inoperative. When the
saw IS run under no-load conditions, the engine
speed IS limited to 10,500 r/min as the governor
comes into operation.
refer to : Fig 4:6 (above posts )
1. Steel ball. 2. Spring 3 Fuel inlet. 4. Fuel outlet
The steel ball and spring in the governor are so devised
that vibrations in the carburettor at a certain
engine speed cause the steel ball to open the fuel
outlet. An excessively rich mixture IS then obtained
and the engine begins to four-stroke, the speed
drops and the vibrations decrease. The steel ball
then closes the outlet, the engine speed increase
and the process IS repeated.
Speed governor
The purpose of the governor is to limit the engine
speed in order to protect vital parts like the crankshaft
and ignition system from excessive stresses.( they seem to have forgotten piston seizing !)
We therefore advise most strongly against any interference
designed to render it inoperative. When the
saw IS run under no-load conditions, the engine
speed IS limited to 10,500 r/min as the governor
comes into operation.
refer to : Fig 4:6 (above posts )
1. Steel ball. 2. Spring 3 Fuel inlet. 4. Fuel outlet
The steel ball and spring in the governor are so devised
that vibrations in the carburettor at a certain
engine speed cause the steel ball to open the fuel
outlet. An excessively rich mixture IS then obtained
and the engine begins to four-stroke, the speed
drops and the vibrations decrease. The steel ball
then closes the outlet, the engine speed increase
and the process IS repeated.
I think that's an optimistic RPM max for the factory 2100CD....I could be wrong, but thought more like 8,500-9,000RPM. But I never put a tach on any of those saws...you could tell by the deep cut load and the noise they were making if the saw was 'right'.
If you were a professional and used the correct oil mix, you could tell when the saw was leaning out too much by noise. That's when you stopped to adjust or see what the trouble was. My last 2100 is still going and it quit loggin when I did-'81.
Kevin
If you were a professional and used the correct oil mix, you could tell when the saw was leaning out too much by noise. That's when you stopped to adjust or see what the trouble was. My last 2100 is still going and it quit loggin when I did-'81.
Kevin
I should update my statement as I bought and put a tach on my saws. 10,500 is fine for a 2100 is good condition with no air leaks and a high quality oil mix.....my gov is plugged.
Kevin
Kevin
This device is commonly called a "rattle ball governor" but is not really a governor, at best, it is an unreliable form of rpm limiting.
Agreed. But I don't see it as the 'evil' device it has become by reputation in the saw forums. I've seen very little real failure in them if kept clean.
I owned over a dozen 2100's professionally and the gov was not a problem if left unplugged. In fact, due to the scarcity of internal 2100 parts, if you're running these saws today, leaving it intact would protect the longevity of your saw.
Plugging it was basically a pro mod and you needed to know the limits of the HIGH spd adjustment on the 2100 by ear....back in the day. Now you can tach it.
Kevin
I owned over a dozen 2100's professionally and the gov was not a problem if left unplugged. In fact, due to the scarcity of internal 2100 parts, if you're running these saws today, leaving it intact would protect the longevity of your saw.
Plugging it was basically a pro mod and you needed to know the limits of the HIGH spd adjustment on the 2100 by ear....back in the day. Now you can tach it.
Kevin
