Husqvarna 257 vs 357 Xp?
- Thread starter Huskybill
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That "search forums"tab at the top of the page will answer a lot of these types of questions of yours.
But basically they are two different wee beasts. On paper 257= 3.7hp and the 357XP= 4.4hp, quite a leap at 57cc's.
The 257 delivers power a wee bit differently than the 357's XP top end power.
Will the average user notice a lot of difference? Probably not.
But basically they are two different wee beasts. On paper 257= 3.7hp and the 357XP= 4.4hp, quite a leap at 57cc's.
The 257 delivers power a wee bit differently than the 357's XP top end power.
Will the average user notice a lot of difference? Probably not.
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
I asked this because I have the 257 saw, since I been collecting the smaller saws do I need the 357XP if it’s that much more power wise. I guess the 357 xp is the one to have. Thanks for your help.
Derf
Addicted to ArboristSite
The 257 was not an XP saw, it used an open port design cylinder, which is cheaper to manufacture. The power curve was more broad, and it was well suited to homeowners and land owners, but the saw was “detuned” from the 262XP that it shared a chassis with- it had a 2-shoe clutch, and a restricted intake. It also used rubber bushings for AV.
The 357XP was a replacement for the 254XP, not the 257. It had better spring AV than the previous 2-series, a three-shoe clutch, and a closed port cylinder, plus crank stuffers. It was a fast revving saw, but it had a narrower power curve. Perhaps because of that, and the fact that it wasn’t a true 60cc saw (at 56.5cc) people felt it was peaky and weak (compared to a ms361). Others will disagree, so long as you aren’t running a 24” bar buried in hardwood.
The 357xp was definitely an improvement over a 257 power wise. But, if you swap the cylinder and carb off a 262 onto a 257, there’s more power than a 357xp. However, the 357xp still has better AV.
The 357XP was a replacement for the 254XP, not the 257. It had better spring AV than the previous 2-series, a three-shoe clutch, and a closed port cylinder, plus crank stuffers. It was a fast revving saw, but it had a narrower power curve. Perhaps because of that, and the fact that it wasn’t a true 60cc saw (at 56.5cc) people felt it was peaky and weak (compared to a ms361). Others will disagree, so long as you aren’t running a 24” bar buried in hardwood.
The 357xp was definitely an improvement over a 257 power wise. But, if you swap the cylinder and carb off a 262 onto a 257, there’s more power than a 357xp. However, the 357xp still has better AV.
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
I’m guessing the 262 Xp cylinder kit on the 257 is the hot ticket. Rather than buy a 357 x p. Saw. I searched for 257 vs 357 Xp without much success or info. Sounds like a fun build, s sleeper.
Thanks guys for all the info.
Thanks guys for all the info.
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Was the 261 not a detuned 262? Only produced for a couple of years- but was it needed at all?
Can all of that family not trace a lineage from the 154?
From what I remember of Husqvarna saws of that era- most were pretty good power to weight stars- except the 257 and 261.
Derf
Addicted to ArboristSite
All of that is true. The 261 was sold similar to the 262, with a dished piston, a 2-shoe clutch, and a different muffler (?), so it was “detuned” as well. However, I believe the 261 production extended past 262 production and the 261 was made to meet emission requirements, not strictly to sell a saw at another displacement/dollar price point.
The 154SE yielded a platform to build the 254SE/XP, the 257, the 261, and the 262XP on. It was a great platform.
A 257 can be made into a 262 if you change the cylinder, but it may not fit under the 257 plastics and look sleeper. The two have different intakes, air filters, and top covers.
Oakboy
ArboristSite Lurker
My go to saw for 26 years has been a 257 and I thought I felt a tear on my cheek when I saw that someone said they’re not that great. With a sharp chain on it it’s a heck of a workhorse. I finally wore out the cylinder on mine so I had it upgraded with the 62 cc jug and you do have to change to the 262 intake to make it work, the original one won’t line up but it all fits under the cover just fine. Not a huge boost in power but definitely noticeable. I’d take this saw over any you have to offer as it will do everything I need and not have to struggle doing it. I do have a 056 super, a 660 and an 880 but only the 660 gets cranked and for milling boards only. The 880 is brand new and will probably stay that way unless the 660 blows up and the 056 super runs good but I intend to restore it to look near new as it’s a piece of Stihl history and the best saw of its day. If you have an opportunity to get a decent 257 you should jump on it, it’s a great saw.
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I bought my 257 used and at the time a 357 in the same condition would have cost at least another $150. I really did not think the 357 was worth the extra money. The 257 will stay even and on occasion outperform my older 61, plus it's lighter in weight. I really like this saw and use it all the time. Oakboy and I are on the same page.
sunfish
Fish Head
Both good saws, but I'd much rather have a 357.
General warning: 254 cylinder will not work on 257/262...not that anyone here has suggested doing that.
254 & 257 have the same intake bits
257 & 262 have the same crankshaft (conrod is longer)
Maybe I should start a new post but I have a somewhat related question... Can I put a 257 piston in a 357? I know they are different but to what extent? I have a 357 with a scuffed up piston, cylinder is probably going to be ok. I also have access to a 257 parts saw but as it's not mine so I'd prefer not to dismantle it if it'd be waste of time.
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Recently my owned saw list says I have little saws from the 240S to the 359 having most of the inbetween saws to compare stock saws. We recently started up the newer not broken in yet 353. Quite a difference in bark.
I only really know what I used in the past. The 240SG,, 266se, 353, 575, 385 Xp, 288xp, 2100se, 2101xp. These brought home the bacon.
Someone posted a dynamometer chart between old and newer saws. Not much difference. I think it’s more anti vibration changes. I never had hand cramps with the husky saws.
I only really know what I used in the past. The 240SG,, 266se, 353, 575, 385 Xp, 288xp, 2100se, 2101xp. These brought home the bacon.
Someone posted a dynamometer chart between old and newer saws. Not much difference. I think it’s more anti vibration changes. I never had hand cramps with the husky saws.
The latest 357 had a screw in clamp to hold the cylinder to partition wall compared to older ones that had only a "clamp on" that were subject to air leak.
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...chain-saws/357-2010-02/carburettor-air-filter
So it got the better of me & I pulled the 257 apart... 357 piston is a few mm shorter & the gudgeon pin is a mm or so closer to the top of it. Con rod on the 357 is also a couple mm wider in the piston. I briefly considered turning it into a pop-up piston, but that looked like a fair bit of work
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
$30 for a LRB or Hyway piston. Another $5 for a Caber ring.
The cylinder cleaned up nicely & the piston wasn't horrible. I had a new ring so that went in & back together it went minus the gasket. Squish is now 0.023, it has a metal clamp on the intake & the automatic decomp has been replaced with a standard one. Will see what the compression is like when the threebond has had a few hrs to set
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
$35 for a meteor 357xp piston
