Husqvarna 266xp flywheel removal help

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ryanrat

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So how does one remove the flywheel from a 20 year old saw? I need to replace the crank seal but cannot get the flywheel to budge. i have a small slaphammer i think i can use if i make a adapter plate for it. before i go beating on it i wanted to get some advice for the more well educated. thanks!
 
I rarely use it but I have a small generic gear puller to get a bit of muscle on really tight flywheels. Screw it up firm then give the flywheel a few raps with a brass hammer. Then tighten a bit more and repeat. The tree jaw puller works a bit better but the two jaw one is OK if your alignment is right. Having said that 95% of flywheels will come off with some gentle tapping with your brass hammer. Some guys put a lever under one side of the flywheels, some don't. Your forst removal wil be the hardest - then it will get easier.

BTW, that 266 is a fine saw - I have three and they don't give much away to the modern bunch.

Al.
 
I rarely use it but I have a small generic gear puller to get a bit of muscle on really tight flywheels. Screw it up firm then give the flywheel a few raps with a brass hammer. Then tighten a bit more and repeat. The tree jaw puller works a bit better but the two jaw one is OK if your alignment is right. Having said that 95% of flywheels will come off with some gentle tapping with your brass hammer. Some guys put a lever under one side of the flywheels, some don't. Your forst removal wil be the hardest - then it will get easier.

BTW, that 266 is a fine saw - I have three and they don't give much away to the modern bunch.

Al.

thanks for the reply! if your using a 2/3 jaw puller where are you attaching the arms? i was hoping to use the M5 threaded holes that the starter pawls are secured with.

its sure it a nice saw. it ran well after i rebuilt the p&c but i wanted to replace the crank seals to ensure i have covered all my rehab areas. pulls a 28" cannon bar nicely :msp_biggrin:
 
We run 18" and 20" bars on them down here in our hard woods. Hell, I run a 25" on my 395. :msp_smile:

The jaws of the puller go under the flywheel - you will probably have to grind them if it is a cheap puller like mine. Usually not much room so the 2 jaw model is easier to get in - though if it is not square will put the fly wheel in a bind and it will not release.

Al.
 
well i guess i need to head to good ol' harbor freight or the auto parts store to get me a cheap 3-jaw puller. thanks nardoo!
 
Screw the FW nut down so that it is nearly flush with the crank...not flush, mind you, but a couple of thread up. Then take a pair of Vise Grip pliers and clamp on the edge of a fin. Mind you, don't put the pliers across a curved area. That is why it is very important to get right on the edge. Then use a heavy hammer and give it a few raps. I have never had one resist me and and I have never damaged a FW. If it doesn't let go with a 3-4 licks, move the pliers around the FW, check the nut to make sure it hasn't turned, and repeat. If it is really tough you might soak it with PB and maybe even a little heat. I have never needed heat, but I have used PB once or twice. Just take it easy and use common sense.
 
Screw the FW nut down so that it is nearly flush with the crank...not flush, mind you, but a couple of thread up. Then take a pair of Vise Grip pliers and clamp on the edge of a fin. Mind you, don't put the pliers across a curved area. That is why it is very important to get right on the edge. Then use a heavy hammer and give it a few raps. I have never had one resist me and and I have never damaged a FW. If it doesn't let go with a 3-4 licks, move the pliers around the FW, check the nut to make sure it hasn't turned, and repeat. If it is really tough you might soak it with PB and maybe even a little heat. I have never needed heat, but I have used PB once or twice. Just take it easy and use common sense.

what exactly are you striking with a heavy hammer? the pliers or the partially threaded nut? your description has me curious...
 

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