Husqvarna 345 Advice

[Kevoo_11]

The community was uber helpful in talking me out of an MS250 (the seller of which ended up being a flake anyway) and I need to call upon you all again.

Found an online post of someone right around the corner selling a Husqvarna 345 for 40 bucks. No chain, and the bar looks sorta beat from the 1 picture I saw of it. Seller says it starts right up and holds an idle. I'm no logger, and this will be strictly for home use on my 2ish acres.

Assuming it runs and doesn't explode is there any reason I shouldn't buy this?

 

[rupedoggy]

no

 

[Kevoo_11]

no

Ha, very succinct.....Thank you.

 

[Ronie]

I have a 345 with a 350 top end. I liked it with the 345 top end and like it even better now. If you go check it out look under the muffler and make sure there's not a hole melted through the plastic into the oil tank, mufflers coming loose and melting the plastic is a common problem with them.

 

[cuinrearview]

The coil on that saw alone brings $25.

 

[Huskitoter]

Those are a great project saws because most of the parts from the 340, 345, 350, 353, and 346xp interchange. The latter pro cylinders can be used by using the 350 riser that turns the clamshell design into a hybrid, as Ronie used. Plop a 346 cyl on it for cheap grins and giggles.

 

[Ronie]

I'd buy it if the case and plastics are in good condition. Even if it doesn't run that good you could fix it up. The parts for them are cheap and they are easy to rebuild with no special tools or heat needed for the bearings.

 

[Ronie]

This is my 345 with an aftermarket 353 top end and bearings. I might have $45, if that, in all the parts to rebuild it.

 

[jltrent]

It is worth that, but a 345 is a true 100% clamshell saw. You can not mount a 350 cylinder on it without taking the complete motor out and mounting the 350 lower block in and then put the cylinder on. As mentioned above check for melting under the muffler and if none the first time you start it tighten the muffler bolts up as tight as possible while the saw is hot. It would be good to put the metal intake clamp on, but the engine/carb has to be removed to do this and the engine will have to be resealed back at the bottom to remount. The 345 has the bar cover adjustable chain tension er, but no adjustable oiler. I would add the 350 adjustable oiler.

345 motor pic

346xp cylinder

350 cylinder

 

[cuinrearview]

The "problems" with this series of saw are overblown IMO, and easily remedied. The later 45mm 350s were really the only ones that suffered from the loose mufflers bolts, and that problem really isn't. The people that go chicken little about these usually don't have a lot of experience with them. The 345s are actually right on the heels of the 350s power-wise. Without much work they can out-perform a stock one. Nobody likes to admit it but it's true. They will rev a little higher too.

 

[Kevoo_11]

I bought it. The guy had some trouble starting it, but it ran well once it was going, and there were no signs of melt on the plastic over the oil tank. The piston looks very clean even if the saw looks filthy. i'm gonna get a new plug, clean the air filter, and spend an hour or two cleaning out all the debris.

/e The plastics on it are all in good shape.

 

[cuinrearview]

Nice score! Get an OEM fuel line and filter, and re-build the carb with a genuine kit. It should be a Walbro HDA-159. It will be less than $30, and money well spent. It'll start a lot easier. Learn how to tune the carb so you'll be able to tell if the intake clamp starts to leak. Most of them don't if left alone.

 

[Ronie]

You got that for a good price. I'd do the things that cuinrearview said and also put a 346 muffler bracket on it just for piece of mind.

 

[Kevoo_11]

Thanks guys. I ordered a chain for it, and I figure I can probably pick up the fuel filter at Lowes. Can't seem to find an OEM carb kit on Amazon, so if anyone has the link I'd appreciate it. For now I'll just clean it up, put it back together, and see how easy/hard it is for me to fire it up.

 

[rupedoggy]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Walbro...A-fits-Husqvarna-154-242xp-254-257-261-262/17
UP205/351709718101?epid=1571812424&hash=item51e3886655:g:5dAAAOSwagdXSIeg:sc:USPSFirstClass!89403!US!-1

 

[Huskitoter]

Nice find. Does it have an NK bar like stock? What chain? You may want to double check that the four screws on the bottom that hold the cylinder are tight. They can work loose over time.

There is a reason those carbs were replaced with zama models. Many people run aftermarket el18 or el32, which only cost a couple bucks more than a kit. Saws without a primer bulb need the single barb model. Otherwise, you have to plug the second barb on the side with mixture screws.

Reference....
https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...5-c3-el18-carburetor-replacement-help.210964/

 

[cuinrearview]

Nice find. Does it have an NK bar like stock? What chain? You may want to double check that the four screws on the bottom that hold the cylinder are tight. They can work loose over time.

There is a reason those carbs were replaced with zama models. Many people run aftermarket el18 or el32, which only cost a couple bucks more than a kit. Saws without a primer bulb need the single barb model. Otherwise, you have to plug the second barb on the side with mixture screws.

Reference....
https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...5-c3-el18-carburetor-replacement-help.210964/

Strange, I've never had an issue with a 159

 

[Kevoo_11]

Nice find. Does it have an NK bar like stock? What chain? You may want to double check that the four screws on the bottom that hold the cylinder are tight. They can work loose over time.

There is a reason those carbs were replaced with zama models. Many people run aftermarket el18 or el32, which only cost a couple bucks more than a kit. Saws without a primer bulb need the single barb model. Otherwise, you have to plug the second barb on the side with mixture screws.

Reference....
https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...5-c3-el18-carburetor-replacement-help.210964/

Didn't come with a chain, which given the price is fine, and I do believe that it's a stock bar. I ordered a Husqvarna chain (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BO4QTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that should fit fine from everything I can tell about it.

As far as the carb...I think I'm gonna clean the saw up, fresh gas, filter, plug etc etc.....If it still starts hard or runs like crap I'll shut it down and replace or rebuild the carb. I feel like I can probably put it back together, but if replacing the entire carb with something that is reliable is only a few bucks more I'd probably end up going that route rather than rebuilding if it comes to it.

 

[Kevoo_11]

Took it apart, there was literally 1/4 to 1/2" of dust and grass + bar oil goop caked EVERWHERE in the machine. New filter and line + a brand new chain... put it back together and it fires on the second pull after prime (no bulb version).

Total dollars in - ~$70

Here's a pic.

 

[Huskitoter]

Looks good. How does it cut and compare to your other saw mentioned in the other thread? Smooth?