Husqvarna 350 ignition issue

[lefturnfreek]

I have a cooked poulan carcass of a saw that I use to test spark plug, cause that’s all it’s good for.

Yes, I would try to tighten up the gap by slotting the holes more but doesn’t say much for that coil but since it’s installed it’s probably not returnable.

Keep on ..... Runnin’ Loads !!

 

[gunns]

Now I’m not sure I want to trim the plastic. With that coil being so far off I’ll be going all way through the case making the case worthless and probably having a saw that still won’t work. The measurements were taken without the screws inserted and the coil pushed as close to the flywheel as the grounding pier/pedestal would allow. So enlarging the screw holes would not help.

Was that HL Supply the one in Daytona Beach FL? It looks like an auto parts store.

 

[gunns]

KYsawman I found the HLsupply you were talking about on the internet. Thanks!

 

[gunns]

A question about rev limiting and non-rev limiting coils. Do the Husqvarna 350 with the non-rev limiting coils have a tendency to over rev or run-away with their rpms?

Also with the non-rev coils do you just adjust the high speed jet a little richer than normal to keep the revs under control?

 

[turtle561]

check the ground strap between the cylinder and coil mount. they sometimes crack or forget to be put in. ask me how I know.

 

[redunshee]

check the ground strap between the cylinder and coil mount. they sometimes crack or forget to be put in. ask me how I know.
View attachment 779961

That was my thought.

 

[gunns]

UPDATE!
It’s been a while. Medical issues.
I put in a good coil and have a great spark.

I pulled the plug grounded it to the cylinder head and get a nice blue spark. I still can’t get it to start. I replaced the carburetor and still no luck. The carburetor was from those great people that gave us the China virus. I shot starter fluid straight into the intake of the carburetor no luck. I then pulled the spark plug sprayed straight into the cylinder put the plug back in and it still wouldn’t start. The carburetor that is in it is a Zama C3 – EI 32. If you order a Husqvarna carburetor they’re about $100. All the cheap Chinese knock offs on Amazon or down around 30 bucks and I don’t want to take a chance on them. I ordered a carb rebuild kit through a local mower shop that only deals with OEM Husqvarna parts. While waiting for the kit to arrive I tried cleaning the original carburetor and putting it back together but still it will not start. The primer bulb appears to be working properly. It pulls gas from the tank through the carburetor and routed back into the gas tank. I noticed on the gas tank that there are three connections that can be made. One for the supply line to the carburetor one is the return from the primer bulb but in between those two is a third option. Is it a vent to prevent a vacuum from occurring in the gas tank as you use gas?

So, most failures to start in my past experience is either because one of two things is missing spark or fuel. I have spark which leaves the fuel issue. In my attempt to start the chainsaw I would check the spark plug after it failed to start and the spark plug is bone dry. That screams a fuel issue but I am baffled why it won’t start when I spray starter fluid straight into the spark plug hole.

Any help with this would be extremely appreciated!!!

 

[Chevboy0167]

Did you use a Husky coil or Chicom coil? Is the coil gapped from the flywheel properly? Gap should be around 10-12 thousands.

 

[Wood Doctor]

It might also be a timing problem, the spark is good but not firing when it should. Check the flywheel key. Could be a loose connection (not quite tight enough) between the flywheel and the crankshaft or it shifted somehow.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

How about you supply a photo of how the wires are hooked up to the kill switch?
I have seen people have a WHOLE lot of problems in regards to the switch connection being a female spade terminal that does NOT fit onto a male receiver and completely missing the other female spade under the black heat shrink about midway.

 

[Wood Doctor]

How about you supply a photo of how the wires are hooked up to the kill switch?
I have seen people have a WHOLE lot of problems in regards to the switch connection being a female spade terminal that does NOT fit onto a male receiver and completely missing the other female spade under the black heat shrink about midway.

But, Bob, he did say he was getting a good spark. If what you say is true, it seems he would be getting no spark at all.

 

[Chevboy0167]

I also thought I had good, bright blue spark on a Rancher 55 last year. Plug wouldn't light under compression. It was a China coil of course. I sourced a new OEM coil on evilbay for $40.00 Runs perfect now!

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

But, Bob, he did say he was getting a good spark. If what you say is true, it seems he would be getting no spark at all.

True that, I should read betterer- but it still applies that a lot of people are good at pulling wires off and not so good at taking note as to how they were connected.

Back to the 4 basics then, spark, fuel air mix being delivered to the combustion chamber, compression and timing.

 

[gunns]

Thanks for your input!! Thanks to your input I’m chasing down other routs. I have spark, I have fuel, timing seems to be fine, but I have yet to check compression. It seems to have a lot of compression just like I thought my Stihl shredder vac had. I found out I was wrong after taking it into a repair shop. I purchased a compression gauge and will be checking the compression on it in the next day or so. In the meantime, what should I expect for a compression reading and what are the initial carburetor settings after installing a new/rebuilt carburetor? I carefully rebuilt the carb with an “official” Husky OEM carb rebuild kit. I paid twice the amazon cost because I didn’t want chinese junk. And what did I get - Husky’s factory original carb rebuild kit MADE IN CHINA! Enough on that. It’s been my experience it’s normally between 1 and 1-1/2 turns. I’ve already tried it with those settings, but had no luck.

 

[gunns]

Thanks for your input!! Thanks to your input I’m chasing down other routs. I have spark, I have fuel, timing seems to be fine, but I have yet to check compression. It seems to have a lot of compression just like I thought my Stihl shredder vac had. I found out I was wrong after taking it into a repair shop. I purchased a compression gauge and will be checking the compression on it in the next day or so. In the meantime, what should I expect for a compression reading and what are the initial carburetor settings after installing a new/rebuilt carburetor? I carefully rebuilt the carb with an “official” Husky OEM carb rebuild kit. I paid twice the amazon cost because I didn’t want chinese junk. And what did I get - Husky’s factory original carb rebuild kit MADE IN CHINA! Enough on that. It’s been my experience it’s normally between 1 and 1-1/2 turns. I’ve already tried it with those settings, but had no luck.

 

[Chevboy0167]

Does it try to start at all? How about removing the air filter and dribble a little MIXED fuel down the carb throat with the throttle held open to let fuel into the cylinder....

Carb needles, I start at 1 turn out from fully seated and adjust from there after running.

 

[gunns]

Once in a great while I may get a single pop but that’s it. When all this started it seemed to be running a little lean and pulling the choke out a bit would even it out.

The saw now has a new plug, Husky OEM coil and carefully rebuilt carb and still won’t start. I’ve tried starter fluid with no luck.

Still waiting for feedback on what the expected compression should be. I now have a compression gauge to check it. I’ll be giving another go on trying to start it today.

A big thanks to all that have tried helping me.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Rule of thumb is that about 150 psi is ideal when measured cold., but many engines will start and run all the way down to 110 to 120 psi. If yours is reading under 110 psi, chances are that you need a top-end rebuild. I have done this on at least three Husky 350 chain saws.

The intake manifold boot on a 350 has been criticized by many here. If cracked, the resulting air leak could be a major problem also.

 

[Bjorn T]

Intake boot is the most common problem on the 350, so check the boot before you do anything else.

 

[Chevboy0167]

Also this... Impulse nipple on the intake boot can melt shut if saw has been overheated, preventing vacuum to fuel pump circuit in the carburetor. This also causes a lean running condition.