Husqvarna 350 question

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monty1twelve

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I'm having a problem and I was hoping someone here could give me some guidance. I have a Husqvarna 350 chainsaw. Whenever I'm cutting a log with a diameter larger than the depth of the bar the saw starts to bog down. It loses power and actually starts burning the log that I'm cutting. Once the cut is complete, and usually I'll have to go at it from a number of angles to complete the cut, you can see acutual burn marks on the cut face from where the saw has bogged down during the cut. I had the chain sharpened fairly recently by a neighbor. The log I was cuttong was only about 12 inches in diameter. I've had problems with cutting logs of that diameter or larger since I've gotten the saw. Is it a problem with my saw or am I doing something wrong? Thanks.
 
A 12" log should be no match for that saw!

Your problem is probably a dull chain, as the others said.
I suggest you start filing your own chain. Being dependant on others, whether it is a friend or a shop, will only work good if you have a lot of chains and change them as soon at they start cutting slower.

Also make sure that you cut the logs from the correct side, so the bar and chain doesn't get pinched.

HiOctanes suggestion of 15" bar is right on in my book, and will allow you to cut logs up to 27-28" without too much trouble. It sure will take some time, though. ;)
 
It should be pretty obvious that I haven't been using a chainsaw for very long so all your help is appreciated.

SawTroll, could you please explain the following:
"Also make sure that you cut the logs from the correct side, so the bar and chain doesn't get pinched."
I wasn't aware that there was a correct side to cut from. Thanks for the help.
 
monty1twelve said:
It should be pretty obvious that I haven't been using a chainsaw for very long so all your help is appreciated.

SawTroll, could you please explain the following:
"Also make sure that you cut the logs from the correct side, so the bar and chain doesn't get pinched."
I wasn't aware that there was a correct side to cut from. Thanks for the help.


Monty, if you're bucking a downed tree, you need to know which way the tree is going move when your cut releases the tension. I'm not an experienced user, so I'm looking forward to the other guys responses.
 
Without a doubt, dull chain. There is no way a sharp one can burn. Does your neighbor know how to sharpen a chain? no way for me to know. Buy a new chain and get your old one sharpended by a saw shop, feel the cutters, they will feel sharp as will a properly filed old chain. I am sure your current chain will not feel sharp. Cut until you notice it slowing down and change to the new one. This will show you the problem. The need for chain maintanance is determaned by it's cutting ability, not by how long it has been since sharpened. Sand or most soils on your logs will dull a chain in seconds as will touching the ground if your dirt contains sand or rocks. Just part of the learning process.
 
Maybe a sharp chain that was put on backwards. Try checking that, then get you a new chain and have the old one for back up after you sharpen it back up.
 
Take the bar off the saw, set it on it's edge on a hard flat surface. If it falls over, or doesn't set square to the surface, you have a bar rail out of square. If you haven't used both sides of the bar, try flipping it over.


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monty1twelve said:
What is the largest diameter log I can hope to cut with this saw once I get the chain sharpened?

Twice the usable bar length without cutting ears.

If you bought your 350 new, it should have the owners manual with some pretty good illustrations of how to work when cutting under compression or tension as well as basic felling and limbing technique. There are also several websites or portions of sites dedicated to efficient and safe saw use. Stihl, Husky, and Jonsered all have info that I`ve seen, you could also search the archieves here or do a serach for forest Apps.

Russ
 
jokers said:
Twice the usable bar length without cutting ears.
........Russ
Yes, that is why I said 27-28" with 15" bar.

The power of the saw decides how fast it will be done, not if it can be done.
 
monty1twelve said:
SawTroll, could you please explain the following:
"Also make sure that you cut the logs from the correct side, so the bar and chain doesn't get pinched."
I wasn't aware that there was a correct side to cut from. Thanks for the help.
Avoid cutting too far into the log from the compressed side, if there are one.
Take a look here: http://www.usa.husqvarna.com/ - select sitemap, then Chain saw techniques, Crosscutting.

Take a look at this one, too: http://www.stihl.co.uk/html/default_fr.php?category=chainsaw
 
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I put a new chain on the Husky this weekend and she cut like a champ. I want to thank everyone who responded, I really appreciate all the help!
 
Also an obvious that a new chainsaw user may overlook. Make sure the chain doesn't come in contact with the ground while cutting. This will instantly dull a chain.
 
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