Husqvarna 350 won't start after sitting; runs fine after gas put in intake to start

[Schoolteacher]

Hello chainsaw enthusiasts. We are troubleshooting a Husky 350 cold start problem.
Saw will run fine and restart easy when warm. We have good mix fresh non ethanol fuel and Husqvarna oil mix, brand new plugged gap set correct. The way we are starting the saw and putting just a small dab of fuel in the intake.
Saw will start 4-5 pull after that. Does it sound like the needle valve leaking fuel and creating a flooded saw refusing to start.
New here to the forum. Thanks, Dave

 

[stihl for life]

when u refuel the saw do u have to put gas in the intake or will it start on its on

 

[blsnelling]

Sounds like a lack of fuel to me. Start with an OEM carb kit.

 

[griffonks]

Well, I just gave you your first like. I am not as experienced as many of the members here, but I don't think the Husky is flooding from what you say. I would check the low fuel circuit in the carburetor first. I would guess that it's blocked, and when the engine pops it's drawing fuel from the main nozzle, high fuel circuit.

Remove the carburetor, screw the low jet all the way in, gently, count the turns and write it down. Spray a little carb cleaner in and make sure all the passages are open. it should have tiny nozzles in the venturi past the horn.

I would just get a kit and rebuild the whole carb but I gave you the quicky fix approach.....

 

[Schoolteacher]

Thanks, we are thinking carb kit.
The only way we can start it is by pouring fuel in after removing the air cleaner. Once the saw starts it will restart until we let it sit overnight or for an hour and try to restart.

 

[sawdust_wizard]

try a carb kit, what I would do is disassemble the carb, soak it in carb parts cleaner overnight, ( you can get it at any autoparts store its in a 1 gallon paint can) be sure not to put any plastic parts in there. Then take carb cleaner and spray the heck out of it and reassemble

 

[nmurph]

Don't rush to do a carb kit...it may turn out to be the solution, but you need to check the needles settings on the carb first.

Take a dry wall screw and remove the limiters on the carb- push the screw in and turn it until you feel it bite. Then turn it slowly CCW until you feel the detent on the limiter line up with the relieve cut into the housing. The limiter will slide right out. Then set the L needle about 1.25-1.5 turns out from LIGHTLY seated. If that doesn't fix the problem, then I would try a carb kit. If you are adding fuel through the carb intake, then the saw is lean. Adjusting the needles is the first step.

 

[Schoolteacher]

Thanks Murph and all others:

Will learn how to remove the limiters with your tip. See what gives next. Dave

Pulled the Low Idle White Limiter Cap. Didn't get it with the finesse technique so kept pulling and twisting with a small pair of pliers. Viola. Then turned L screw in gently until it seated and backed it out 1 1/2 turns.
Choked saw pulled it 5-6 times. Pushed choke in setting high idle. Started around 7th pull.
This was about 9:00 PST. Will see what it starts like in the morning and update my progress with the problem mentioned above. Thanks all. Carb is a Walbro 159 and I just rebuilt my same
Walbro 159 recently. Was fairly simple to work on.

 

[Schoolteacher]

Update Tues. Morning:
Couldn't wait to test the saw. Used choke lever out2-3 pulls. Pushed in to set fast idle. No start. Pulled choke lever back out pulled saw some more 3-4 more times, saw barked, pushed in and started. Total about 7-8 pulls. Saw is starting now with out gas poured in intake. L idle screw is set 1 and 1/2 turns out. High screw still has the black plastic limiter with the tab, have not been able to get it off. It is set to middle of it's half turn travel for now.

 

[nmurph]

Good deal.

That series of carbs has a known problem, but it has to do with revving and power on the top end. Your saw is an early 346. They switched to a Zama carb in the early 2000's (that's off the top of my head...I could be off by a year or three).

The H needle limiter comes off the same way...you just have to find the detent slot.

5-7 pulls on a cold saw is about average.

 

[Bushbow]

that's good stuff right there - I have a circa 2007 350 that is an awesome little saw but darn cold blooded. Don't need to prime the carb with gas but it takes a lot of pulls to get her running from a cold sit. Do you need the funky screw driver to tune them??

 

[nmurph]

Nope, just a regular carb screwdriver. However, you will need to remove the limiters before you can use a screwdriver.

 

[Bushbow]

thanks nmurph