Husqvarna 365 chain spins fast at idle..help

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Ohio8484

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I have a 365 special that I just picked up. I was using it today and noticed that the chain spins pretty fast at idle. If I put the chain break on the saw ideals fine and obviously the chain is stopped. Is there and adjustment I can make to fix this?
 
I have a 365 special that I just picked up. I was using it today and noticed that the chain spins pretty fast at idle. If I put the chain break on the saw ideals fine and obviously the chain is stopped. Is there and adjustment I can make to fix this?
I would try tuning that saw. Adjusting T screw to slow chain and low idle screw to maintain idle at 2700-2800rpm. If you need a spring (c shaped spring) pm me your address and I will send you one or two. Post a picture of your clutch.
 
Is that a easy or difficult fix?
Springs are easy to diagnose and repair. Lots of helpful YouTube videos. I use a nylon string to pull them onto the clutch shoes. Could also be worn shoes. Visually inspect the spring and the shoes for wear and breakage.
 
Most likely your saw is idling higher than the clutch engagement rpm. A guess would be factory idle speed is around 2800 rpm, clutch engagement rpm is around 3200-3800rpm. You can either adjust the LA (idle) screw CCW to bring down rpm or the L (low speed) carburetor screw CCW to richen the air:fuel mix to bring down rpm. Now 'if' your chain is running and the idle is say at 2800rpm we now look at the clutch. If the springs are worn (stretched) or broken the clutch engagement point changes. Usually if there broken your saw would stall and die when you hit the chain brake. Try tuning the problem away or if its the clutch, I suggest you replace the whole clutch or ALL springs. Being not that experienced as a saw mech, it's easier to just replace the whole clutch, then you will have new shoes, springs etc. Clutches are a wear/consumable item that have a limited service life. You did not mention whether your saw is new or high hour so its hard to tell. Good luck, before telling you XYZ IS broken, I'd thought a proper method of troubleshooting would help best.
 
Try a slower chain?..no forget that.
There is quite a number of reasons why it would race. I'm certain it's not a frozen carb.
It's an older saw which I'm assuming you don't know everything about its history and you haven't given much information. First day running it? Or you used it the other day and it was fine? Or it starts out fine but it does it when saw was hot only?
Yes it may be a simple adjustable but moving adjustments isn't the first thing you do especially when it may be an air leak or the muffler is comming off or you haven't manually checked that the carb throw is returning completely by taking the air filter cover off and see if you can't move it further with you finger. Make sure the carb is snaped into place properly. Push and pull on the carb in all directions If you push it forward the saw may rev down. The rubber manifolds are sceseptable to splitting over time.
Easy test to eliminate it being a tank vent issue is open the cap half a turn with the saw running.The revs will drop instantly if the vent is inadequate. The 365/372 will get particles work its way down the vent line with moisture in the summer and partially plug afTer they dry from sitting for a bit. The clutch bearing can cause this also but shaft is better protected and less common with the internal clutch . Is the saw oiling good?
It definitely doesn't have a broken spring.
It would stall with the brake on constantly, certainly wouldn't "idle good with the brake on" as described.
It very well could have been partially engaging due to weak springs and stalling at regular idle speed so it was idled up to stay running? ? It would smoke the clutch very quickly with the brake on on a high idle
I would go through a few of those simple things first. More info and a video can sure make it easier.
 
Springs are easy to diagnose and repair. Lots of helpful YouTube videos. I use a nylon string to pull them onto the clutch shoes. Could also be worn shoes. Visually inspect the spring and the shoes for wear and breakage.
Surely if the clutch shoes are worn it would rather not grip than grip & spin the chain I'd go with the broken spring or the idle adjustment to high.
 
Surely if the clutch shoes are worn it would rather not grip than grip & spin the chain I'd go with the broken spring or the idle adjustment to high.

Wouldn't the shoes with a spring-worn groove be overcome by centrifugal force earlier and engage the drum at lower RPM?
 
I have had two saws do this the first had dried up grease that wouldn't allow the crankshaft , bearing , and drum bushing to work properly . The other saw was the opposite , it was dry rust on the crankshaft , bearing , drum bushing that caused the problem .
Remove the clutch cover and chain then try to spin the sprocket .
 
Wouldn't the shoes with a spring-worn groove be overcome by centrifugal force earlier and engage the drum at lower RPM?
The saws I've had dealings with with worn clutch shoes spring grove have also had wear on the outer edge of the shoes so the take up on the clutch was more or less the same or not as good as an unworn unit so the chain starting was at higher revs rather than spinning at idle. I would try the easy fix first, back out the idle stop screw on the carb first Progress to clutch strip/inspection/replacement as required.
 
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