Husqvarna 365

[wood man]

I found an origianl kit at last.
Took me over an hour of searching to track one down.
Sold out it seems every site I tried, but I found one in France.
I had to end up doing a bank transfer to pay for it, but I am very happy.

Seller said he only had it because it was found in a store room some weeks back when he was doing a remodel on the store room.
£253.50 plus shipping and taxes, so has just cost me £298.

I know this is a lot of money, but I want this saw for heavy prolonged use in some big hardwood trunks, so a once only buy for proper piece of mind.

This is a Husqvarna original part and number that seems to be obsolete now, on any sites you try out there in the world, so maybe I was lucky to find an original.
593 66 57 02

 

[wood man]

Here is the state of the piston I just removed from this 365
You can see it is brand new and wrecked, and looking like it is ready to smash itself apart inside the cyclinder bore.
I suspect 2 things caused this.

1. The barrel is poorly cast, the flanges inside and ports have ragged edges that are catching the piston as it goes up and down.

2. The actual slackness of the cyclinder head as I was able to remove the head bolts with my fingers had casued the head to start to move around, in the 1/10th to 1/100th of a millimetre range, but enough to throw the whole saw out.

I also did a compression and vacum test on it when i got it for Xmas , but could not do either, so simply suspected the crank seals had popped. I never expected it to be the top half rebuild.
As Steele also mentioned in above post, I 'll break the bottom, although this was getting doen already.
Now I wonder if the crankshaft is okay and not also part of the rebuild. The con rod and needle bearing on the crank end with the small end are perfect. Very little movement and nothing on the up and down what-so-ever.

Trying to find the Husqvarna way they mark the crank on this model as I am sure it will be stamped or marked somewhere.

 

[huskihl]

Here is the state of the piston I just removed from this 365
You can see it is brand new and wrecked, and looking like it is ready to smash itself apart inside the cyclinder bore.
I suspect 2 things caused this.

1. The barrel is poorly cast, the flanges inside and ports have ragged edges that are catching the piston as it goes up and down.

2. The actual slackness of the cyclinder head as I was able to remove the head bolts with my fingers had casued the head to start to move around, in the 1/10th to 1/100th of a millimetre range, but enough to throw the whole saw out.

I also did a compression and vacum test on it when i got it for Xmas , but could not do either, so simply suspected the crank seals had popped. I never expected it to be the top half rebuild.
As Steele also mentioned in above post, I 'll break the bottom, although this was getting doen already.
Now I wonder if the crankshaft is okay and not also part of the rebuild. The con rod and needle bearing on the crank end with the small end are perfect. Very little movement and nothing on the up and down what-so-ever.

Trying to find the Husqvarna way they mark the crank on this model as I am sure it will be stamped or marked somewhere.

View attachment 1145592View attachment 1145593View attachment 1145594

Cylinder bolts loosening up would allow it to suck in unmetered air and score the cylinder. But yours looks straight gassed given the scoring on the intake side of the piston as well as the exhaust

 

[wood man]

straight gassed

I do not know this term, over this end of the pond.
Do you mean run without oil in the petrol, or gassed, as in wrecked, cooked?

 

[J D]

I do not know this term, over this end of the pond.
Do you mean run without oil in the petrol, or gassed, as in wrecked, cooked?

Run on fuel with no oil

 

[huskihl]

I do not know this term, over this end of the pond.
Do you mean run without oil in the petrol, or gassed, as in wrecked, cooked?

No oil mixed in the gas

 

[wood man]

I thought that is what you meant.

It does not surprise me that this is likely and probable, after what other horrors I found lurking under the covers of this saw.

I did not know these 365 models of Husqvarna are so sought after it is and was counterfeited/copied completely.

It has everything fake apart from a few bits, so now expecting to find a Chinese crank-shaft inside when I pull the crank-case apart. I can find no marks on the crank arm, but this is not 100% telling me if fake or not.
I will wait to see the crank weight lobes and see if they are stamped Sweden.

Will part the casings later today if I get a chance.

 

[huskihl]

I thought that is what you meant.

It does not surprise me that this is likely and probable, after what other horrors I found lurking under the covers of this saw.

I did not know these 365 models of Husqvarna are so sought after it is and was counterfeited/copied completely.

It has everything fake apart from a few bits, so now expecting to find a Chinese crank-shaft inside when I pull the crank-case apart. I can find no marks on the crank arm, but this is not 100% telling me if fake or not.
I will wait to see the crank weight lobes and see if they are stamped Sweden.

Will part the casings later today if I get a chance.

The cranks are marked on the outside of the crank weights. Won’t be able to see it unless the cases are split

 

[wood man]

The cranks are marked on the outside of the crank weights. Won’t be able to see it unless the cases are split

I couldn't remember when they stopped putting the H on the arms, so looked one out. 1980/90 it seems and this threw me, as it was in my head it would still be there.
Huskihl, I had done what you said above by the time I read your post.

As you say, I had to split it to see the markings,
And yes, all genuine.
So now I know what I have and need to do to put it back to almost new again.

Total mess-up, the Barrel, Piston, Carb. Pull Chord Assem., Top Cover and pawls which are all fake chinese parts.

Strange combination of parts to be replaced at once..

I will also now do a prep and respray, original Husq. 2K, not powder-coated, on the entire crankcase..

 

[Gord404]

Is there any writng on the sid of the cylindr or inside the piston- could be aftermarket too got quit a pile of those 365 cylinders, making 365,s into 372's - cases are easy to identify china ones have bigger lineup dowels and on the flywheel side they are not marked by husquvarna and part number says something else- can't remember

 

[wood man]

Gord404

I have just stripped the 365 and shown it is a genuine Husqvarna crankshaft as per the photo's above your post.
I maybe should have been clearer on the images.

The first one is me showing that I knew Husqvarna used a stamp on the crank-arm, but this was done on earlier stuff.

The other images are of my actual crankshaft out of the 365 and the crankcases.

https://thecounterfeitreport.com/product/360/365-Chainsaws.html

 

[wood man]

Gord404, thanks for the heads up on what should be or not on the crankshaft, as in not stamped by Husqvarna.

The muck behind the flywheel when I removed it showed the saw was cleaned and rebuilt, but they never ever removed the flywheel or the clutch drum. cased in real crud from years of cutting wood, so oil baked on sawdust on the chain side, and caked on and baked sawdust and dirt inside the back of the flywheel. Leading me believe it had not had the bottom half touched on the rebuild.

I said in an earlier post I could not pull a vacum or compression, as was basically non-existent or not able.
At that point I suspected a leaky crankcase.

As I went through the strip-down I discovered the cylinder head had not been tightened down, so the head-gasket had failed.
I also said I suspect the crankshaft oil seals had gone.
This is now confirmed when I removed the flywheel.

I hope you can see the images good enough of the crankshaft oil seal on the flywheel side of the crankcase to see it is severely warped and buckled, beyond use, and shows and explains why I could not pull a vacum in the engine/crankcase.
I should also add, the bearings inside the crankcases are also bad.
Very hard to turn, almost seized.

This is probably the worst ever rebuild I have encountered in my life.

 

[wood man]

I used a blind bearing puller to see just how siezed the flywheel side bearing was, and I got a shock.
The other side, the chain-drive side bearing is perfect, turns in your fingers nice and smoothly.

It takes some force to get the inner bearing to turn on the outer race with the balls inside and is notchy.
Hard to tell when you turn the flywheel as the magnets are hiding the actual state of the bearing as the notchyness just feels like the magnets doing there job twice on each rotation.
Also explains why I thought it was hard to turn over the bottom half.

I will use the original crankshaft to do the rebuild, but if any problems on running, I will replace it.



I was probably lucky the saw has to be stripped and rebuilt because had it ran I would have used it and really done damage to the bottom half.

 

[wood man]

Here are the inner markings on the Husqvarna 365 castings. There is also the circle bits with the year as done by makers also.


I will be respraying the crankcase back to new of this Husqvarna 365 the same as the crankcase shown beside the 365.
You will see i have already done a Husqvarna 55 Rancher case, now ready for rebuild also.
This 55 Rancher is for a farmer, now 84 years old and still using saws!!
I am also rebuilding one myself, for myself, but mine is an ealry 80's rancher 50cc



I am now almost there with the 365 at last.
It is not a shop repair, so no time limit or cost involved, as will be one for myself for the rest of my days.

 

[Gord404]

guess that set of pictures of cases was getting posted as I was writing

 

[wood man]

to add to all this, I have just had another little expense.
I went to push out the bearings on the Husqvarna 365 crank cases and at first thought they are in tight, until i saw the seals on my hydraulic bench press have just failed.
It will take a couple of weeks to strip and get sent off for new seals, so just bought this cheap unit to keep me going.
Only cost me £55, so nice and cheap.
Only a baby 6 ton, but will get me going for now.
Delivery expected they said with-in 48 hours.



My bench press gets a lot of use as many people for miles around know I have one, and eveyone seems to decend on me for there motorbike stuff.

 

[wood man]

guess that set of pictures of cases was getting posted as I was writing

It happens to me a lot also, as a day or so later, you think, eh, how did this happen.
I have a slow internet, as comes through a telephone line my end, so when doing a post, i sometimes have to wait ages to get a connection to upload images.
So not all of Scotland has broadband yet.

 

[pioneerguy600]

If you heated your crankcase to 220F the bearings will just about fall out or just a lite push or tap will dislodge them, same for reinstall, heat on magnesium cases is your friend. Never used a press in 60 years of bearing removal or install, the heat expands the case and pockets much more than steel expands.

 

[wood man]

If you heated your crankcase to 220F the bearings will just about fall out

Thanks all, I do know this and normally use it, but sometimes I just press them in and out, same with the crankshafts, I press them into the bearings instead of using the crank puller tools to pull them into the bearings.

Also we do not know F over this end of the world.
We use Centigrade, and I have seen people over here not understanding this and heating there casings, not just power-saws, to 200 centigrade and not understand why it melts the paint and makes a mess.

 

[wood man]

I have now stripped and re-painted the Husqvarna 365 casings this end.
I never fully stripped the one side casing holding the clutch brake spring, as still in place and no need to take it out.
It is only 2K paint (2-pac) paint so will not stand up to loads of petrol/oil mix all over the casings when filling.
If for a private person, then I would have them properly blasted and power-coated, but am happy for myself with just paint and laquer for now which will show up down the road under the exhaust where the paint will go darker with heat.