decableguy2000
ArboristSite Guru
Never needed to if torqued correctly. With that being said a little thread locker shouldn't hurt. Check your in box.
Jeremy
Jeremy
Husqvarna 371xp Big bore rebuild
- Thread starter Scott371xp
- Start date
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As to centering... I tap to center as shown on a recent MS660 vid on the subject. Then typically tap once more, then tap the other end once to relieve side pressure.. if the crank turns smooth and free (little or no resistance) .. let it fly. Fact is when that saw fires up, the heat and vibration is likely to finish relieving the side loads if you are within reason. That's regardless if the seals are in or not when assembling. It's not unusual to have replacement cases come with the bearings and seals installed. The trick more often than not, is installing the crank in these cases without pushing those "pre installed" seals out! Which is why I prefer to build with my own selected bearings and seals and install the seals last. But that's me. If I'm talking about a source of parts, AM or OEM, I try to use them as delivered if they are pre-assembled; as that is part of the evaluation.
Also we often over analysis timing numbers as that's a hot topic here in cyber land and how some define themselves. The Huztl top ends theoretically wouldn't run if you listen to some. But they do. I would check squish as a standard practice regardless of the source of your top end parts. Most of the Hustl 372's I've seen are in the high side of .040" and therefore react very well to a Three Bond gasket build. They also run better with either a muffler mod or simply using a Huztl muffler as its already free of internal baffling. For those with skills and a pencile angle die grinder , Huztl often come with a larger than you would prefer blow down. In the video's my "Cyclops" build is simply a Huztl 52mm with no base gasket, and muffler mod, and a slight increase in intake duration from how that cylinder came out of the box. I hesitate to say how much material was removed but the result was an intake opening at approx. 78 degress before top dead center. Not even a radical number. Nothing else was done. Point of the project was extending the life of "spent" saws and still ending up with a stronger than stock saw with simple tools and technics. It's as strong if not stronger than a similar build with a 372xpw top end. Only that Huztl top end & muffler cost me under $65 bucks.
And it's been a lot of fun as it certainly exceeded all expectations. Certainly worth the gamble for the hobbyist. Not certain I would recommend throwing out a good stock 365/372 cylinder but certainly a viable option if the OEM cylinder is damaged.
Hoping you do a video of the project saw that is the subject of this thread! Certainly add to the Huztl build thread over in modded work saws. Pics work too.
Also we often over analysis timing numbers as that's a hot topic here in cyber land and how some define themselves. The Huztl top ends theoretically wouldn't run if you listen to some. But they do. I would check squish as a standard practice regardless of the source of your top end parts. Most of the Hustl 372's I've seen are in the high side of .040" and therefore react very well to a Three Bond gasket build. They also run better with either a muffler mod or simply using a Huztl muffler as its already free of internal baffling. For those with skills and a pencile angle die grinder , Huztl often come with a larger than you would prefer blow down. In the video's my "Cyclops" build is simply a Huztl 52mm with no base gasket, and muffler mod, and a slight increase in intake duration from how that cylinder came out of the box. I hesitate to say how much material was removed but the result was an intake opening at approx. 78 degress before top dead center. Not even a radical number. Nothing else was done. Point of the project was extending the life of "spent" saws and still ending up with a stronger than stock saw with simple tools and technics. It's as strong if not stronger than a similar build with a 372xpw top end. Only that Huztl top end & muffler cost me under $65 bucks.
And it's been a lot of fun as it certainly exceeded all expectations. Certainly worth the gamble for the hobbyist. Not certain I would recommend throwing out a good stock 365/372 cylinder but certainly a viable option if the OEM cylinder is damaged.Hoping you do a video of the project saw that is the subject of this thread!
Certainly add to the Huztl build thread over in modded work saws. Pics work too.
And to the channel...thank you to those who watch! Never expected any one to be interested in some fat guy walking and talking about chainsaws on a farm! The genesis of the channel is exactly how I defined it in the "about" section.
And I hope those who both converse on the channel and do spin offs from the videos continue! It all adds to the saw hobby experience in my mind. The focus for me has been more about "You Can Do This" vs. the "How You Do It" particulars. Emphasis on "You Can" vs. "I". Figuring out details, problem solving, research, are all part of what makes it rewarding and fun for me to get these things running. Mechanical jig saw puzzles.
And there are some excellent folks here on this forum who have shared a lot of basic knowledge over the years....you know who you are... Brad
And I hope those who both converse on the channel and do spin offs from the videos continue! It all adds to the saw hobby experience in my mind. The focus for me has been more about "You Can Do This" vs. the "How You Do It" particulars. Emphasis on "You Can" vs. "I". Figuring out details, problem solving, research, are all part of what makes it rewarding and fun for me to get these things running. Mechanical jig saw puzzles.
And there are some excellent folks here on this forum who have shared a lot of basic knowledge over the years....you know who you are... Brad
Walt....I think we take a similar approach to youtube vids. ....rather than "how to" do things....they are "how I do it" vids.
Very cool
Very cool
