Husqvarna 395xp W

[War@Woodz]

I am trying to learn and grow out of a need to heat my home for my large family, to feed my family from our small orchard, and to try to give my children some future economic gain from maintaining our blessing of a reasonable size plantation of Black Walnut Trees. We do not have a lot of money, we barely could (or can) afford what we got, so I must prevail. This is War@Woodz.

I purchased a Husqvarna 395xp W because I already burned up a Husqvarna 450 from not doing my homework. I learned a lot just from the experience, but I have so much to learn. I am trying not to allow anything to be missed this time around. I cannot put that burden of ignorance on my family again, nor have this financial investment not "bear fruit."

I am sorry for this long rant, but I want anyone reading this to know why I am asking all of the questions that I will be asking. The Answer Army at the Husqvarna site is pretending I don't exist. I just know that there must be someone out there that can remember being at the bottom and the bloody nail climb up to where they are now at.

Now back to the actual question, the Husqvarna 395xp W. It made economic sense (even though I made a mistake in the knowledge sharing arena not going to a dealer) to buy this chainsaw from an online dealer. The chainsaw came without the front handle being assembled on the chainsaw.

I searched the manual, the original Husqvarna packaging, the shipping packaging from the online dealer, the Husqvarna website, and I could not find assembly instructions for the disassembled front handle for this chainsaw. it seems simple enough, however, what torque should be put on the bolts to help prevent them from coming loose, or snapping the bolts and damaging the retention holes, should I use thread lock when installing the retention bolts, or is this not a good idea, how should the support bar be placed, and where should the furnished sleeve sit on the handle?
It seems simple enough, but... The more internet research I do, the more I find (examples on other chainsaws) that improperly mounted (to include improperly torqued bolts) components on a chainsaw can have quite severe consequences. This just adds to my own experience from my old 450, making me want to pursue this matter until I know I am doing this right.

Please help if you can and I thank you for your time and effort in regards to this matter.

 

[HuskStihl]

The wrap handle screws aren't that critical, the metal bar that comes with it spans the gap at the ends of the handle at the bottom of the bar. Just put it on the saw with all the holes lined up and put in the screws. Put them in as tight as you can with a regular 4mm Allen wrench. That'll be fine, no loc-tite needed.

However.........if you burned up a saw you may need to pay more attention to the tune of the saw (specifically not too lean), and the quality of the fuel you use.
Welcome, and nice saw. A bit of a step up from a 450

 

[mdavlee]

I don't know what the torque value would be but I wouldn't use lock tite. It may harm the plastic. Just get them snug and not over tight. They thread into plastic if I remember right.

 

[CJ1]

Don't take offence at this but with the questions you are asking you must not have a lot of saw experience, so please please please, be careful with that saw. It is for experienced saw operators and it will and can hurt you fast in more ways than one. I have run saws for over 35 years and a 395 is nothing to get complacent with.

 

[bigblackdodge]

CJ1 is correct. A 395 is a Beast!!!!! If you are inexperienced with a saw, it may benefit you to find other Members here that are close to you that you could lean on and learn from. And Welcome to AS! A Great Wealth of Knowledge and Opinions on here! Good Luck on your Family Orchard Endeavors!!!
I am curious about what happened to the 450 though. When you have time, it may benefit you to talk about it on here. At least to learn and ensure it doesn't happen to your New 395xp.


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[War@Woodz]

Thank you all so much! I do not have that much experience, but I am like a dog chasing a bone when I have to be. I will put it together now with no worries based on the feedback, and no loctite. I just got a tach and I have learned up on adjustments according to the manual and online research. I will pay special attention to not running too lean. I will research the fuel issue, that is a great point. I will be careful and I just upgraded to full protective gear (Labonville, Elvex, etc.). I have also now devoted vast hours to research, learning, maintenance, and practice. I am taking this art very serious at this point. This site rocks and I plan on being a active member here!

 

[CJ1]

I am taking this art very serious at this point.


I am glad to hear you say that. Most fear a standard kickback but a top pinch with a saw that big can and will hurt you. I have a couple of good scars on my shins through chaps to remind me. I can deal with standard kickback and do probably a couple times a week, no biggie. But in this case you need to pay attention to both. What are you cutting that you need a saw that big? CJ

 

[War@Woodz]

What happened to the 450? Ignorance and I am Man hear me roar pride. I put the gas and oil in and let her fly. I would wrench it down until I got to the other side of the wood and I would file every so often to make things seem better. If anyone doubts Husqvarna, send them to me, and I will tell them that a completely neglected Husky 450 made it through 3 seasons of serious wood harvesting.

What did I specifically do wrong? I did not even know to grease any points on the chainsaw. I did not know to adjust the carb (lean and rich) and didn’t own a tach. No engine or cooling system maintenance. No bar flipping, etc, etc. Basically, in a nutshell, the worst imaginable neglect. A lot has been corrected and I am learning more as I go. I am definitely now on much more solid ground.

I have learned my lesson. Not only about the chainsaw(s), but about being careful. I have a really nice never forget scar on my right thigh as a constant reminder. I have now done my homework and I have gotten great protective gear. I am constantly learning from blogs, vid clips, etc. I have a learning plan (local classes, self study, practice under ideal conditions, etc.) the likes of the Normandy Invasion. But, I have sooo much to learn and so many seasons ahead. I will always ask questions, even if they seem silly, or show my inexperience. I will never know everything, but I will always strive to know as much as possible. My experience will come in time. I am now in a War@Woodz.

Thank you all for your understanding, knowledge, and compassion. I will return the favor to others in time. I will be back to ask more as necessary. May our Lord look after you and keep you safe.

I am still not 100 percent on all of the types of wood cutting that I have done or are about to. Put I am learning as I go and this coming season I will hone more in. I am sure on the Black Walnut, Elm, Hickory, Maple, Cherry, and Scottish Pine. I never actually measured them, but I have been through some large wood. The Elm that finally killed the 450 had to be taken from multiple cuts from different sides with a 20” bar/chain. I still have two more of those to take down. I have lots more that I will be dealing with over the years. Different types and different sizes… I have now upgraded to a Carlton 36” bar with ripping chains for the 395. I have increased in knowledge and maintenance of the chainsaw, cutting techniques, safety, etc. I will continue to grow and learn. I will be as ready as possible for this season’s harvest.

 

[bigblackdodge]

What happened to the 450? Ignorance and I am Man hear me roar pride. I put the gas and oil in and let her fly. I would wrench it down until I got to the other side of the wood and I would file every so often to make things seem better. If anyone doubts Husqvarna, send them to me, and I will tell them that a completely neglected Husky 450 made it through 3 seasons of serious wood harvesting.

What did I specifically do wrong? I did not even know to grease any points on the chainsaw. I did not know to adjust the carb (lean and rich) and didn’t own a tach. No engine or cooling system maintenance. No bar flipping, etc, etc. Basically, in a nutshell, the worst imaginable neglect. A lot has been corrected and I am learning more as I go. I am definitely now on much more solid ground.

I have learned my lesson. Not only about the chainsaw(s), but about being careful. I have a really nice never forget scar on my right thigh as a constant reminder. I have now done my homework and I have gotten great protective gear. I am constantly learning from blogs, vid clips, etc. I have a learning plan (local classes, self study, practice under ideal conditions, etc.) the likes of the Normandy Invasion. But, I have sooo much to learn and so many seasons ahead. I will always ask questions, even if they seem silly, or show my inexperience. I will never know everything, but I will always strive to know as much as possible. My experience will come in time. I am now in a War@Woodz.

Thank you all for your understanding, knowledge, and compassion. I will return the favor to others in time. I will be back to ask more as necessary. May our Lord look after you and keep you safe.

I am still not 100 percent on all of the types of wood cutting that I have done or are about to. Put I am learning as I go and this coming season I will hone more in. I am sure on the Black Walnut, Elm, Hickory, Maple, Cherry, and Scottish Pine. I never actually measured them, but I have been through some large wood. The Elm that finally killed the 450 had to be taken from multiple cuts from different sides with a 20” bar/chain. I still have two more of those to take down. I have lots more that I will be dealing with over the years. Different types and different sizes… I have now upgraded to a Carlton 36” bar with ripping chains for the 395. I have increased in knowledge and maintenance of the chainsaw, cutting techniques, safety, etc. I will continue to grow and learn. I will be as ready as possible for this season’s harvest.

I'm no Professional, for sure! I've just been cutting firewood since I was knee high to a grasshopper. I've heated with it all my life. It's in my blood and I find it very relaxing for me to be in my zone working on firewood. Besides, it's a great time to reflect and think. Well maybe not so much while the saws running , that really does deserve 110% of an operators attention, but you understand the solitude that harvesting can bring, I'm sure. Gives a Father a Great Sense of Pride in Providing something that's needed to His Family!
I'm sure there are Jokers and Hucksters on here somewhere, but I can't say that I've seen any since I've been here. As I mentioned, it's a Great source to find answers to all questions related to wood harvesting, processing, burning, etc. I'd imagine with the quality of folks I've dealt with and talked with on AS, you may even find answers to some of Life's Mysterious Questions!
I noticed you mentions a ripping chain. I'm assuming that you're using a sawmill with that 395, 36" Bar & Ripping Chain?


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[ash man]

Not sure what other saws you have, but you may want to add a smaller saw for limbing. Slinging a 395 for everything is tiring and potentially dangerous. Welcome to AS.

 

[War@Woodz]

I went with a Carlton Ripping chain for the quality of the product and the ability to hold an edge, as well as "It is also used for felling, bucking and cutting firewood when conditions are dirty or frozen." I am new to the game, but Carlton impressed me and their blades come highly recommended during my online research (blogs, reviews, etc.). I do plan on getting a mill, but for now, it will be nothing but straight wood harvesting. Is this over kill?

I did get the 450 completely brought back to life (new sprocket, bar, etc.) from a shop and I have a small Poulan.

I greatly appreciate all of the wealth of knowledge shared and please feel free to tell me if I am right, wrong, or anything else. I have thick skin and my main concern is becoming as knowledgable as possible. Any insight into this topic is greatly welcome (preferences, experience, a slap to my head if I'm running down the wrong road, etc.).

I do want to share some of my experience of putting the 395xp W together (after the help I received on AS) in case someone ever has the need. You have to take the air filter off in order to get the wrap around handle on. There is a leather ring on the bottom of the handle, put it to the side that has the rubber splash guard on the bottom rear of the chain side of the saw. I believe this is meant to protect the rubber guard. There are 3 bolts on the side of the chainsaw and 2 bolts on the bottom of the saw. Put the 3 on the side in loosely first, then the bottom bolt furthest from the 3 bolts on the side next (loosely). Then put the saw on its side and gently bend the handle to line up the last bolt on the bottom and put it loosely in. Go back to the 3 bolts on the side. Start with the lower 2 and start threading them in. This will help you get the top bolt in the anti vibe (helps to compress the spring). Get yourself a set of round vise grips to help you hold the spring while threading this top bolt in (after the bottom 2 on the side are in, compresses the anti vibe spring inward for you). The rest is just turning bolts one side a little, then the other, like putting a car rim back on. Note, after opening the bolt package, I found that Husqvarna did put Loctite red on the bottom bolts because the retention holes are metal? No Loctite anywhere else due to previously mentioned in this post! This is just my thoughts and observations having put this 395xp W together, no assembly instructions provided, just great AS support. If anyone objects, can add to this, or knows a better way, please feel free to jump in, as I am new to all of this.

 

[CJ1]

I went with a Carlton Ripping chain for the quality of the product and the ability to hold an edge, as well as "It is also used for felling, bucking and cutting firewood when conditions are dirty or frozen." I am new to the game, but Carlton impressed me and their blades come highly recommended during my online research (blogs, reviews, etc.). I do plan on getting a mill, but for now, it will be nothing but straight wood harvesting. Is this over kill?

I did get the 450 completely brought back to life (new sprocket, bar, etc.) from a shop and I have a small Poulan.

I greatly appreciate all of the wealth of knowledge shared and please feel free to tell me if I am right, wrong, or anything else. I have thick skin and my main concern is becoming as knowledgable as possible. Any insight into this topic is greatly welcome (preferences, experience, a slap to my head if I'm running down the wrong road, etc.).

I do want to share some of my experience of putting the 395xp W together (after the help I received on AS) in case someone ever has the need. You have to take the air filter off in order to get the wrap around handle on. There is a leather ring on the bottom of the handle, put it to the side that has the rubber splash guard on the bottom rear of the chain side of the saw. I believe this is meant to protect the rubber guard. There are 3 bolts on the side of the chainsaw and 2 bolts on the bottom of the saw. Put the 3 on the side in loosely first, then the bottom bolt furthest from the 3 bolts on the side next (loosely). Then put the saw on its side and gently bend the handle to line up the last bolt on the bottom and put it loosely in. Go back to the 3 bolts on the side. Start with the lower 2 and start threading them in. This will help you get the top bolt in the anti vibe (helps to compress the spring). Get yourself a set of round vise grips to help you hold the spring while threading this top bolt in (after the bottom 2 on the side are in, compresses the anti vibe spring inward for you). The rest is just turning bolts one side a little, then the other, like putting a car rim back on. Note, after opening the bolt package, I found that Husqvarna did put Loctite red on the bottom bolts because the retention holes are metal? No Loctite anywhere else due to previously mentioned in this post! This is just my thoughts and observations having put this 395xp W together, no assembly instructions provided, just great AS support. If anyone objects, can add to this, or knows a better way, please feel free to jump in, as I am new to all of this.

See if you can sweet talk a member from here to spend a day or 2 with you. You will not believe how much you can learn from someone who is experienced. I spent 2 years cutting with a not so talented group. Then 10 or so with actual loggers and I would say 1/3 more production and 10x safer with the latter. CJ

 

[moody]

I recommend you get a hold of treemonkey. If you live close to Augusta he's been in the business a very long time and would be able to get you started safely and effectively.

 

[Nuzzy]

I went with a Carlton Ripping chain for the quality of the product and the ability to hold an edge, as well as "It is also used for felling, bucking and cutting firewood when conditions are dirty or frozen." I am new to the game, but Carlton impressed me and their blades come highly recommended during my online research (blogs, reviews, etc.). I do plan on getting a mill, but for now, it will be nothing but straight wood harvesting. Is this over kill?

Unless I'm misunderstanding what you got, don't use ripping chain (10° top plate angle) for general wood cutting. Not saying it physically won't work, but it'll be slow and annoying.

 

[nmurph]

Unless I'm misunderstanding what you got, don't use ripping chain (10° top plate angle) for general wood cutting. Not saying it physically won't work, but it'll be slow and annoying.

Agree.

OP, you missed the boat on this one. If you are cutting clean, standing wood, then the best chain is Stihl RS. If it's dirty, skidded wood, or wood from river bottoms that gets flooded regularly, the Stihl RM or Oregon LGX (or semi-chisel Carlton)

 

[bigblackdodge]

Unless I'm misunderstanding what you got, don't use ripping chain (10° top plate angle) for general wood cutting. Not saying it physically won't work, but it'll be slow and annoying.

Thanks Nuzzy & Neal. I was hoping someone with experience would chime in cause I know nothing about ripping chain or saw milling other that the ripping chain probably wouldn't be ideal for crosscutting.


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[Nuzzy]

Thanks Nuzzy & Neal. I was hoping someone with experience would chime in cause I know nothing about ripping chain or saw milling other that the ripping chain probably wouldn't be ideal for crosscutting.

It'll certainly hold an edge. Problem is, that edge angle won't cut worth **** in applications other than milling. It'll put unnecessary stress on the saw as well, just as cutting with a dull chain does.

 

[bigblackdodge]

It'll certainly hold an edge. Problem is, that edge angle won't cut worth **** in applications other than milling. It'll put unnecessary stress on the saw as well, just as cutting with a dull chain does.

I can see why. Top plate angle of 10 degrees it kinda like using the butt end of a single bit axe! Lol.


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[Philip Wheelock]

I went with a Carlton Ripping chain for the quality of the product and the ability to hold an edge, as well as "It is also used for felling, bucking and cutting firewood when conditions are dirty or frozen." I am new to the game, but Carlton impressed me and their blades come highly recommended during my online research (blogs, reviews, etc.). I do plan on getting a mill, but for now, it will be nothing but straight wood harvesting. Is this over kill?

I did get the 450 completely brought back to life (new sprocket, bar, etc.) from a shop and I have a small Poulan.

I greatly appreciate all of the wealth of knowledge shared and please feel free to tell me if I am right, wrong, or anything else. I have thick skin and my main concern is becoming as knowledgable as possible. Any insight into this topic is greatly welcome (preferences, experience, a slap to my head if I'm running down the wrong road, etc.)...

Given the info that you've posted, my sense is that both the saw and the chain are overkill. If it were me and I could exchange the 395 for a Husky 372xp and the ripping chain for Stihl RS, RM or similar, I'd do that. I understand that black walnut can get to be 36" dia., but the 395 is just too big. If you're young and strong, I suppose that you could use the 450 for limbing and the 395 for everything that the 450 can't handle. Good luck.

 

[War@Woodz]

Thank you all for the advice, I will save the Carlton ripping chain for when I get around to a mill. I will try to get out and do some measurements of some of the wood I will be cutting, there are some monsters out there! The Elm trees I noted earlier (the 450 killers) are so big I can't put my arms around them (6 ft span finger tip to finger tip) and they are TOUGH wood to get through. I will plan on using the 450 for limbing and the 395 for anything the 450 can't handle as advised. I will get the Stihl RS or RM chain. I appreciate all of the help. Please let me know if anyone has anymore advice!