Husqvarna 55 cylinder

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Closed left, open right

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The closed port cylinder on the left is an aftermarket cylinder. I believe those who have used them have been happy with the results. Here is one of my OEM closed port jugs for comparison:
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Yes, factory one looks like a mini 394. [emoji4]

I just finished a mild porting job on one of those, runs very well.

The "closed port" one is a 46mm hyway, factory is 45mm.
Overall fit and finish is excellent....
Only issue is it will need a base cut...
Squish with NO gasket....

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I'm thinking about using the closed port kit from Hlway, will the carb work from a open port saw. How much is lost if you don't cut the base?
 
Just bumping this to the top to see if anyone that's tried one of the HYWAY 46MM closed port kits would like to tell us how it is working.
 
Just for future reference if I ever have to rebuild my 51 can I put a closed port 55 p&c on it? It doesn't have a decompression so I am guessing it's open port

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I have a Hyway closed port on my 55. Havent had a chance to run it yet, sorting out carb issues. Looked nice and I installed it with base gasket.
 
Thanks for the update guys, I have 2 55's that need cylinders just been waiting to see how these kits are doing in the field before I go that direction. Sounds like they have been working pretty good.
 
I'm getting ready to tryout a 46mm "big bore" kit on my grandpas Grey top model 50......how do I measure the squish and what is the desirable spec? Also if I don't use the base gasket, what kind of sealant is recommended?

Anyone have any pics/links for a muffler mod for the 50-55's?
 
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If you use the base gasket, you probably will be ok but these Farmertec cylinders have a lot of squish and I leave the base gasket completely out. (just use some sealant)
Anyway, if you put the gasket on the cylinder with it upside down, you'll see the problem. There is a small hole in the cylinder base that is open to the crankcase, that hole gets partially blocked off because it's not in the correct location. With a drill or dremel just enlarge the hole towards the center of the cylinder. You don't want to make a larger round hole, make it oval. Make sure not to fill it with sealant.
I suppose I could cut the base on the cylinder down a few thousands and still use the gasket but it's too much work for a saw that's gonna sell for $175.

Glad I found your post.
I’ve been fighting this saw to run right.
Fixing this issue will go a long way to getting there!
Thanks
 
After reading this thread and then realizing it is almost 3 years old, I wanted to write something anyways. :crazy:.Just my experience with the hiway 46mm closed port kit. It sucks big time. When I first installed it it had over .080 squish, with base gasket delete. I went ahead and cranked it up and it had absolutely no power. I returned it and got my money back. I have tried several AM kits on 55 saws. none to date has been anywhere close to the performance of the oem topends. Squish typically runs over .050 with base gasket delete. My latest attempt at a am topend was with a warhawk brand. Squish was .051 no gasket. I decided to cut .030 off the base to result in a final .021 squish. The milling opened the pulse hole up a bunch as it elongated the hole. Not a problem I can see, it seals using gasket sealer. Saw runs like crap. it cranks and revs, but is really bad in the cut using a new 20in bar and chain. I also did some cleaning up of casting flaws, but not a full blown porting, yet. Another difference I observed is rod pin location in the piston. The AM piston pin hole is located closer to the top of the piston. Not a lot, 1 or 2 thousand or so, but this also lowers compression and effects port timing. Oem kit pricing has dropped since this thread was started. Hiway had the oem kits for around $80 not to long ago, dont know current pricing. My 46mm hiway kit was several years ago and I hear quality control has improved since then so maybe they are ok, but I know OEM works and on a cheap resale value saw, I see no reason to skim on quality. My current AM 55 saw is a work in progress and will eventually get some timing adjustments and additional porting so maybe it will be ok. If not, It will get a OEm topend and be sold for what it is.

One other thing, if your going to build a 55, use a zama carb. The zama does have a bigger venturi than the walbro (stock carbs for a 55),and my personal opinion makes more power. Also the closed port 55s use 45mm bores, not 46mm as in the open port version. If you find a old closed port and the cyl is salvagable, you can buy the 45mm closed port piston at Lit'l Red Barn. Others may sell it but red barn is the only place I have found them. You can also use a open port piston in a closed port cyl, but it will run like a open port saw.
 

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