Husqvarna 66

[grawil]

Hi all,

I'm a pretty big n00b when it comes to buying a chainsaw having used my father's old & heavy stihl and my father-in-law's homelite (aka, 'gut-less' or 'the vibrator'). Having moved east, my wife and I are taking on more responsibility for maintaining family cottage and I'm in need of some chainsaw buying advice. We have 30 acres of land and maintain 2kms of private road leading to cottages on a lake in northern Ontario. Within the area of our cottage, autumn storms knocked down 3 large maples, 2 beech and a swath of smaller trees. I had a guy come in and fall a few hallow/damaged trees near the cottage and it is now pretty clear to everyone that we need to be a little more proactive about managing the trees near roads, shore-line, and buildings The homelite is ok for limbing, but it is woefully under-powered and too small for everything else.

This leaves me looking for a solid and reliable chainsaw. I've found a few used saws locally but I'm lost in a sea of model numbers and not enough practical experience to decide. Does anyone have any thoughts on buying an older, but well maintained <em>Husqvarna 66</em> with a new 20'' bar+chain? It looks quite similar to the images of older saws (metal chain brake) I've seen posted in <a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40125&d=1163518575">these forums</a>. How easy are these to maintain yourself and are there any service manuals available online? Are there any problems specific to this model that I should watch out for? How does this compare with the 2xx models or a new 353? Do the newer saws offer better vibration damping?

Many thanks,
Graham

 

[clearance]

Welcome to the site, you must be talking about a 266. If so, a great saw, specially the XP model.

 

[grawil]

Many thanks for the reply clearance. I'm pretty sure it is listed as a <a href="http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/e705c911793fccfc88256b5200166abe?OpenDocument">model 66</a> but for all I know, it is the same as a <a href="http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/9f5525102886abf488256b52001a33af?OpenDocument">model 266</a>. Both appear to be 1980's saws. Should I be concerned about buying a saw this old? I mean, I'd like it to last for 10 years (at least).

I've also found a 372 with a 20'' bar for the same price so I think I'll take a look at both of them. They are all listed as similar in weight and power, but I think the latter is somewhat newer.

In terms of usage, I'll probably be taking 15-20 trees down a year for the next few years and their diameters probably won't exceed 22''.

Thanks again,
Graham

 

[Esbjug]

Welcome to the site, you must be talking about a 266. If so, a great saw, specially the XP model.

A Husqvarna 66 was made from 1987 to 1991, and info on this saw (parts list) can be found on the Husqvarna web site. The older products, up to about mid 90s, does not often have the users guide online. The 266 was also made the same years.

 

[HiOctane]

The 66 was on the same build as 266,61,268,272.Excellent saw.Compared to the 353,its not the same league as 66 model.53 cc instead of 66,weight difference,better anti vibe on 353,rubber intake on 353 instead of fiber,one ignition module instead of 2 on 66,side chain adj on 353,plastic handle brake on 353.But you got a reliable classic .

 

[clearance]

Learn something new, all I knew was 266XP, (had them) and the 61. The steel adjustable brake was awesome, never ran a 353, sounds like junk, the 61s and 266s are reliable, I see them often, still cutting and running strong 20+ years later.

 

[grawil]

Thanks all,

So how would you compare the 372 to the 66? I've found both and they are priced similarly.

372 - 70 cc, 3.9 kW, ~14 lbs, early 00's
66 - 66 cc, 3.1 kW, ~14 lbs, late 80's

I'm mostly looking for intangibles such as:
- handling, vibration, etc?
- reliability?
- ease of maintenance?

A friend commented that the 66 has an external clutch whereas the new Huskies use an internal clutch which is both less complicated and easier for chain removal/installation/maintenance.

 

[clearance]

If they are both in the same shape get the 372, more power, newer saw, better anti-vibe. Wonder why its the same price?

 

[grawil]

I think the 66 is a tad overpriced for a 20 year-old saw. It is worth noting that one is posted by a small-engine guy who buys, rebuilds equipment and then posts a glossy add in the online classifieds with many photos. The other is a private sale from a farmer who claims he doesn't need a saw this large anymore and posted a text-only add for a chainsaw in the middle of nowhere. I won't get a chance to look at the 372 until the weekend as its an hour or two driving from here. In the meantime, I think I'll call around to some dealers and get prices on what they have new/used.

Thanks all,
Graham

 

[Tzed250]

If they are both in the same shape get the 372, more power, newer saw, better anti-vibe. Wonder why its the same price?

Yep, the 372 is a great saw...check the price you were quoted against Baileys sale price on some of the last 372XP's imported into the US. Baileys is a sponser here so give it a look:

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/5342

 

[spike60]

Graham;

What are the prices of these saws? If they are in the same condition, then the 372 would be the way to go. But being about the same price, I suspect that eiyjer the 66 hasn't been used much, or the 372 has been used a lot. In that case, I would rather have an older saw that has seen limited use, than a newer one that has a lot of time on it.

Parts for all of the saws in the 66/266 family are still available.

 

[grawil]

The prices are $350 CDN ($325 USD) for the 66 or $375 CDN ($350) for the 372.

Graham

 

[HiOctane]

The prices are $350 CDN ($325 USD) for the 66 or $375 CDN ($350) for the 372.

Graham

If saw condition is about equal,go with the 372.350.00 for the 66 is too expensive anyway in my opinion,should be 250.00-275 due to the age of the saw.

 

[DGG]

372xp gets my vote. Maybe a 357xp if you don't need the extra hp and size but still want a saw with guts.

With that much land/woods you might want to get a backup saw so you don't have to stop and sharpen, etc. Maybe a smaller one for limbing.

 

[romeo]

Watch out for the farmers saw, there equipment is usually pretty abused, I would buy a saw from a logger before a farmer. I would suggest that you run both saws for a few minutes. If you have a gaulded cylinder it will run like mad for a few minutes then die, you wont be able to restart it. The 372 is a better saw and more parts are readily available but if its in sorry shape and the 66 is in better shape I would go with the 66.

 

[HiOctane]

Watch out for the farmers saw, there equipment is usually pretty abused, I would buy a saw from a logger before a farmer.

You are f*****g right.

 

[Marine5068]

Watch out for the farmers saw, there equipment is usually pretty abused, I would buy a saw from a logger before a farmer. I would suggest that you run both saws for a few minutes. If you have a gaulded cylinder it will run like mad for a few minutes then die, you wont be able to restart it. The 372 is a better saw and more parts are readily available but if its in sorry shape and the 66 is in better shape I would go with the 66.

,"their" equipment is.......

 

[raumati01]

Watch out for the farmers saw, there equipment is usually pretty abused, I would buy a saw from a logger before a farmer. I would suggest that you run both saws for a few minutes. If you have a gaulded cylinder it will run like mad for a few minutes then die, you wont be able to restart it. The 372 is a better saw and more parts are readily available but if its in sorry shape and the 66 is in better shape I would go with the 66.

Bang on , their gear is always filthy . The air filters in particular are usually clogged up with crap.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

You made me read that long ass intro to a 9 year old thread just because you wanted to bump it with a spell check.