Husqvarna Chainsaws

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Thought you guys might get a kick out of this. Customer brings his clean 65 in the other day. Carrying the saw in one hand and a box in the other. Says he purchased the saw approx 28 years ago. Couple weeks after buying it the case starts to leak oil. He contacted Husqvarna and they sent him a new case. Shortly after that he quit burning wood. Fast forward 28 years and he now wants to burn wood again.

That's not right :chainsaw:

I have a garage sale special I have been collecting old parts to get it back up and running for half a year. Can I have the case halves? :jester:

Nice find, just goes to show there are a lot of NOS parts around that nobody knows about :cheers::cheers::cheers:
 
That's not right :chainsaw:

I have a garage sale special I have been collecting old parts to get it back up and running for half a year. Can I have the case halves? :jester:

Nice find, just goes to show there are a lot of NOS parts around that nobody knows about :cheers::cheers::cheers:

Never know what is in someones basement. Unfortunately, he wants it fixed, no chance of keeping this one. Finding a gasket set on the other hand....
 
Never know what is in someones basement. Unfortunately, he wants it fixed, no chance of keeping this one. Finding a gasket set on the other hand....

Go to ebay and search i-needa-margarita then view their listed gasket sets. If one isn't listed then pick any of them and pick ask a question. That's where I got mine
 
65 Bow

Hey, who's is this? Put it on that big auction site but never showed it to us? :chainsaw:

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Brian, I used Permatex High Tack on both sides of the crankcase gasket. Helps hold it in place when installing and is gas resistent when cured.

As far as torque goes, I just tighten them down. Not that big a deal.

Mark, do you think that putting my 65 back together with the old crappy paint blasted out will be OK bare like that on the inside? They don't seem to paint every nook and cranny on the inside so it makes me think that inside the tank it should be OK to be bare magnesium...

If it is I am getting Permatex high tack on the way home and starting in on it.
 
When reinstalling, I put the fw side brg on the crank and then warm the case up again with the torch and then slip the crank and all in that side. I then warm the PTO side of the case up and slip that brg in that side. I then start the crank in the pto side brg and use a spacer and washers with the clutch to pull the crank into that PTO side brg. Piece of cake.

Mark, I tried to do this on the PTO side but the bearing didn't fall in and the paint is starting to bubble up. Do I need to push on the bearing or tap it or something at the same time? I have to other case halves with better paint so I may try it again on that half but I will wait for your comment on the technique.
 
My Husky's

Starting from the top:

394XP - 36"
357XP - 18"
50 - 16"

All (3) were used on this rather large maple.

The little Redmax was lonely sittin on the sidelines so I threw it in as well.

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Mark, I tried to do this on the PTO side but the bearing didn't fall in and the paint is starting to bubble up. Do I need to push on the bearing or tap it or something at the same time? I have to other case halves with better paint so I may try it again on that half but I will wait for your comment on the technique.

If it didnt fall in then you didn't have it warm enough. If your worried about that paint, I wouldnt, you wont see it after the oiler cover is on anyway.

You can press that brg in the case as well without heating it up so much if you have the means to do so. A big vise and the right size socket can do it if your carefull.

How did the flywheel side go? Make sure you get that case side warm enough the first time on it.

As far as the bare mag in the fuel tank, what else can you do? I think there just fine like that as some saws seemed to be that way stock.

I wouldn't leave ethanol laced pump gas lay in it for extended periods of time though.
 
If it didnt fall in then you didn't have it warm enough. If your worried about that paint, I wouldnt, you wont see it after the oiler cover is on anyway.

You can press that brg in the case as well without heating it up so much if you have the means to do so. A big vise and the right size socket can do it if your carefull.

How did the flywheel side go? Make sure you get that case side warm enough the first time on it.

As far as the bare mag in the fuel tank, what else can you do? I think there just fine like that as some saws seemed to be that way stock.

I wouldn't leave ethanol laced pump gas lay in it for extended periods of time though.

I will arbor press that one in then. I haven't tried the flywheel side yet because I have to get it on the crank first. I was only worried about the paint because I thought it might flake off later and get in the points or something but maybe that can't happen.

I will do my best to stay away from the Ethanol until Nobama makes it impossible :popcorn:

Thanks again.
 
I will arbor press that one in then. I haven't tried the flywheel side yet because I have to get it on the crank first. I was only worried about the paint because I thought it might flake off later and get in the points or something but maybe that can't happen.

I will do my best to stay away from the Ethanol until Nobama makes it impossible :popcorn:

Thanks again.

The brgs fit on the crank pretty easy, I just hold the near side couterweight in my hand, start the brg on the crank and then tap it on with a small hammer and the right sized deep socket or piece of tubing.
 
The brgs fit on the crank pretty easy, I just hold the near side couterweight in my hand, start the brg on the crank and then tap it on with a small hammer and the right sized deep socket or piece of tubing.

I think I am missing something here. I managed to move the old bearing over on the flywheel side but there is no way it is going to clear the oblong lobe thing that the points must operate off of. Does that lobe come off somehow?
 
I think I am missing something here. I managed to move the old bearing over on the flywheel side but there is no way it is going to clear the oblong lobe thing that the points must operate off of. Does that lobe come off somehow?

Bearing separator came today. Old bearing is off, had to "start" the cam off with the bearing and puller but it did slip right off once it moved a bit. Reverse tear down starts tomorrow!

Thanks everyone for the help. :rockn:
 
Someone must have a new Husky pic or something to post....:popcorn:

If and when the 65 starts and runs after the rebuild how do you "break in" the new ring and piston?
 
Gasket Help

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I finally got my new gasket set for the 65. As you can see it too is shrunk and doesn't quite line up right. I feel like I should cut the little strip in the red box and then I believe the circled bolt holes should line up. I tried to gingerly insert bolts through the holes and line things up FIRST this time. The strip in the red box doesn't actually seal anything it's just a bridge probably for cutting and handling integrity.

Opinions? Mark did you have to do this?
 
That looks like a paper gasket. If so, you can try soaking it between a few sheets of damp/to wet paper towels for a while until it gets it's shape/flexibility back. But keep track and don't soak it to long just until you can work it but not break it.

Always had to do this with all the older Harley knuck/panhead/shovel oil pump gaskets.

Of course you can probably cut that bridge as you said but these kind of gaskets seal best when they are damp and pliable and then get to dry in position.
 
Thanks Mark and Cantdog. I cut the bridge and I will get some paper towels tomorrow to try the dampening trick.
 
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