Husqvarna Chainsaws

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Here is part of a Husky. :)
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A Jred 670 with 272 top end, carb, maybe the muffler. And clutch cover and recoil.

A great runner. Has 150#s and the ring isnt seated
 
Just thought I'd post up a saw that I have, I don't hear much about these on here. I know it doesn't say XP on it, but its a mag case, air injection, adjustable oiler, all the stuff you'd expect on a pro saw.

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LOL That's the saw (not the same one) that brought me here(AS). That one is nicer than mine. Mine has a slight rub mark on top of the filter cover from sitting in a case. First saw I bought (used dad's 024 for years) And first I ever took a grinder to.

Might hate me for it, but I like it better than my 262 for how it feels/handles while cutting. Feels lighter to me, but I think they weigh the same or close?

As Saw DR. put it they are a sleeper. Mine pulls a 20" full comp 3'8 chisel without a problem. After opening the exh/int to 2mm from piston skirt.

Open transfers with not much room for improvement that my:newbie: eyes could see but all pro const thru out:heart:

Bill
 
LOL That's the saw (not the same one) that brought me here(AS). That one is nicer than mine. Mine has a slight rub mark on top of the filter cover from sitting in a case. First saw I bought (used dad's 024 for years) And first I ever took a grinder to.

Might hate me for it, but I like it better than my 262 for how it feels/handles while cutting. Feels lighter to me, but I think they weigh the same or close?

As Saw DR. put it they are a sleeper. Mine pulls a 20" full comp 3'8 chisel without a problem. After opening the exh/int to 2mm from piston skirt.

Open transfers with not much room for improvement that my:newbie: eyes could see but all pro const thru out:heart:

Bill

Cool stuff. Ya I like the feel of the saw. Have yet to use it.
 
When reinstalling, I put the fw side brg on the crank and then warm the case up again with the torch and then slip the crank and all in that side. I then warm the PTO side of the case up and slip that brg in that side. I then start the crank in the pto side brg and use a spacer and washers with the clutch to pull the crank into that PTO side brg. Piece of cake.

So if I follow the above method everything will be properly centered for the cylinder right?

How do you keep from burning the paint doing this?
 
So if I follow the above method everything will be properly centered for the cylinder right?

How do you keep from burning the paint doing this?

Yep you should be all good that way.

Paint? thats all covered anyway and you never see it. But, the factory stuff is tough, barely discolored it. I warm them from the inside and look at these pictures, and see for yourself.

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Yep you should be all good that way.

Paint? thats all covered anyway and you never see it. But, the factory stuff is tough, barely discolored it. I warm them from the inside and look at these pictures, and see for yourself.

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You have a really bad case of CAD...you just happen to have the same saw in the same state for pictures :dizzy: that is sick...or even worse you catalog your saw pictures so well that you can instantly retrieve them...:chainsaw:

Mark, you need help...:cheers:
 
You have a really bad case of CAD...you just happen to have the same saw in the same state for pictures :dizzy: that is sick...or even worse you catalog your saw pictures so well that you can instantly retrieve them...:chainsaw:

Mark, you need help...:cheers:

No my saw is not in that same state, mine is up and running. I just took those pictures for a thread I did when I rebuilt it!

I sometimes return to those pictures to help me remember things as I have CRS most the time anymore. :)

And help? No mines up and running, I don't need any help with it. LOL
 
No my saw is not in that same state, mine is up and running. I just took those pictures for a thread I did when I rebuilt it!

I sometimes return to those pictures to help me remember things as I have CRS most the time anymore. :)

And help? No mines up and running, I don't need any help with it. LOL

:cheers: I figured, thanks for getting the sarcasm :cheers:

where is the thread on the rebuild?
 

Mark

It looks like you used something on the gasket between the case halves? In the kit I got it just looks like thin paper and old one just lifted right off nice and neat all in one piece. Are my eyes playing tricks on me or did you put something one that gasket before bolting the case together?

Also, I measured all of the case bolts torque to tighten at 25-50 inch lbs when I removed them which in theory means they probably got torqued to roughly 60 in-lbs when originally installed. Sound right?

Brian
 
You multiply:

Nm (Newton meter) times 8.85075 to get in-lb (inch pounds) of torque.

Nm (Newton meter) times 0.737561 to get ft-lb (foot pounds) of torque.

I meant is 8Nm the specified torque for the bolts in question...
 
Mark

It looks like you used something on the gasket between the case halves? In the kit I got it just looks like thin paper and old one just lifted right off nice and neat all in one piece. Are my eyes playing tricks on me or did you put something one that gasket before bolting the case together?

Also, I measured all of the case bolts torque to tighten at 25-50 inch lbs when I removed them which in theory means they probably got torqued to roughly 60 in-lbs when originally installed. Sound right?

Brian

Brian, I used Permatex High Tack on both sides of the crankcase gasket. Helps hold it in place when installing and is gas resistent when cured.

As far as torque goes, I just tighten them down. Not that big a deal.
 
Brian, I used Permatex High Tack on both sides of the crankcase gasket. Helps hold it in place when installing and is gas resistent when cured.

As far as torque goes, I just tighten them down. Not that big a deal.

:bang: stupid rep thing still won't let me rep you, been handing it out like candy trying take the lock off repping you for all the help. :bang:
 
Before I get a load of messages I can no longer access the 65L & 77L service manuals as they have been lost with my old hard drive.If anyone has a copy I would like to complete the set again.

I agree totaly with Mark dont get to worried about torque just tighten sensibly and you will be OK.After nearly 30 years working on saws for a living I cant remember many of the mechanics in the workshop reaching for a torque wrench
for much at all.

The old saying "Tight is Tight & to Tight is f####d.;)
 

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