parrisw
Tree Freak
Its not a problem, really! I'm glad to help out.
Husqvarna Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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Its not a problem, really! I'm glad to help out.
briantutt
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Bearing s and seals
After I press the crank out what is the best way to get the seals out. I also think I should replace the bearings too since I'm in here. They don't feel right anyway. I am assuming I can press the bearings out on the arbor as well and bearings should be easy to find I would think.
Getting closer to the rebuild now!
After I press the crank out what is the best way to get the seals out. I also think I should replace the bearings too since I'm in here. They don't feel right anyway. I am assuming I can press the bearings out on the arbor as well and bearings should be easy to find I would think.
Getting closer to the rebuild now!
Yep, I just warm it up around the brg from the outside with a propane torch, and they just fall out.
When reinstalling, I put the fw side brg on the crank and then warm the case up again with the torch and then slip the crank and all in that side. I then warm the PTO side of the case up and slip that brg in that side. I then start the crank in the pto side brg and use a spacer and washers with the clutch to pull the crank into that PTO side brg. Piece of cake.
After I press the crank out what is the best way to get the seals out. I also think I should replace the bearings too since I'm in here. They don't feel right anyway. I am assuming I can press the bearings out on the arbor as well and bearings should be easy to find I would think.
Getting closer to the rebuild now!
6202-C3 brgs if I remember right. You will proably need a brg seperator to remove the old ones from the crank.
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes, bearings say 6202 on them. The PTO side bearing stayed in the case when I split it.
What is the best way to get the oil seal out?
Why does parrisw's avatar say banned?
parrisw
Tree Freak
Because I'm a BAD BAD BOY!! ha ha ha. Was wondering when someone would ask!
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
parrisw
Tree Freak
oh good, I thought for a minute you actually were banned, thus no more pointers...
ha ha. No, just my lame sense of humor.
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
parrisw
Tree Freak
OH ha ha. Forgot about that part. Well, not sure how they are on the 65, but with the case apart cant you just tap them out from the inside? When the saw is together I just pry them out with a small screwdriver.
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
okay, got it. Thanks and good night
parrisw
Tree Freak
G'night.
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
Mark you were right. I pressed the crank out of the PTO side and the bearing stayed on the crank. I have a universal puller with three legs. Will that work to put the three lips on the bearing and pull it off the crank?
And when you say 6202-C3 do you mean 6202 is the size and C3 is short ber ABEC-3 for tolerances? I found ABEC-1 bearings right away but they are looser if I recall the ABEC scale...
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If your puller legs will fit under the brg all the way around then go ahead, but I don't think they will.
Yes the c3 brgs are supposed to be the best ones. I found them cheap on ebay.
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
You're right, they won't. There is only about 30 thousandths between the counter weight and the bearing. Guess I will have to find a separator.
I pried and tapped out all the seals and bearings from the case halves then cleaned them up with Simple Green (holy :censored: does that stuff work good). The inside of the fuel and oil reservoir look nasty with loose paint and some sort of glue or something. Would it be a bad thing to bead blast the loose stuff out of there?
Brian, I have a cheap small seperator from harbor freight I think and I ground down the inner lips real thin with a grinder for taking those brgs off. Most the time just bolting down the seperator will get those brgs moving.
The inside of my tank looked quite like that but not quite as bad. I used a little cup brush on a dremel to clean it all up.
The inside of my tank looked quite like that but not quite as bad. I used a little cup brush on a dremel to clean it all up.
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
I tried my cup brush and dremel, doesn't even phase it!
My father thinks if I heat up the bearing real fast with the propane/oxy torch it might just fall right off the crank. He also thought if I just tap between the weight and the bearing with a chisel it might move over?
thoughts?
Maybe 2 really small chisels right across from each other. There not that tight a press fit. Just be carefull. I tap em back on with a socket, but make sure you hold the near side crank counter weight with your off hand.
briantutt
Addicted to ArboristSite
Like this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160405281675&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Most of the ones on Ebay are sealed these look right and are C3. This listing claims they are right for higher temps and hi speeds because of the C3 tolerances. The pic certainly looks very similar.
I just buy the viton sealed ones and pluck the seals out. In fact I think I left the seal on the outside, just for a little extra sealing.
