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I still can't get the flywheel off the 65. There is no place to wedge behind the fan. I think I am going to have to find the right metric thread size and bolt the universal puller on that I have and bolt it on to the small holes that hold the dawgs on. The only other option is to pry on the fan blades but that just seems wrong...

Ya, just do it right. Get the bolts and use a puller. That's how I do it. If you cant' get it off with the puller, set the puller really tight, and then hit the end of the puller with a hammer, I have to do this lots to get them off.
 
Ya, just do it right. Get the bolts and use a puller. That's how I do it. If you cant' get it off with the puller, set the puller really tight, and then hit the end of the puller with a hammer, I have to do this lots to get them off.

Got some M5 bolts tonight. Bolted on the puller using all four threaded holes in the flywheel. The first time I tried to pull it one of the four bolts partially pulled out threads from one of the four holes :chainsaw: still usable luckily.

So next I put four new ones in WAY further and tightened up the center bolt as much as I dare. Still won't come loose, tapped some on the center bolt, sprayed it with penetrant, left it sit with the tension still on and went in the house.

Do you think it will magically pop apart over the next few days if I just leave the tension on it and keep tapping on the bolt and spraying on more penetrant?

Stubborn thing :dunno:
 
Got some M5 bolts tonight. Bolted on the puller using all four threaded holes in the flywheel. The first time I tried to pull it one of the four bolts partially pulled out threads from one of the four holes :chainsaw: still usable luckily.

So next I put four new ones in WAY further and tightened up the center bolt as much as I dare. Still won't come loose, tapped some on the center bolt, sprayed it with penetrant, left it sit with the tension still on and went in the house.

Do you think it will magically pop apart over the next few days if I just leave the tension on it and keep tapping on the bolt and spraying on more penetrant?

Stubborn thing :dunno:

Get a hammer, and hit the end of the puller really hard, it needs to be a good rap of the hammer, and the puller must be very tight, I just did one today like that, I shoulda done a video, but never thought of it.
 
Get a hammer, and hit the end of the puller really hard, it needs to be a good rap of the hammer, and the puller must be very tight, I just did one today like that, I shoulda done a video, but never thought of it.

I was afraid to give it a nice hard wack. I won't hurt the crank or bearings or anything? The puller does have a nice ball bearing in the center bolt, and it is as very tight, I can feel the four M5 bolts stretching, have the fender washers bent right down to the puller.

Just go smack it?
 
I was afraid to give it a nice hard wack. I won't hurt the crank or bearings or anything? The puller does have a nice ball bearing in the center bolt, and it is as very tight, I can feel the four M5 bolts stretching, have the fender washers bent right down to the puller.

Just go smack it?

Just go smack it. Yup I've used up lots of sets of washers, they get all bent to crap. Don't be afraid to hit it, wont hurt a thing. Just make sure its sitting on the bench, holding it down with one hand, it will pop off so you don't want to drop anything.
 
Just go smack it. Yup I've used up lots of sets of washers, they get all bent to crap. Don't be afraid to hit it, wont hurt a thing. Just make sure its sitting on the bench, holding it down with one hand, it will pop off so you don't want to drop anything.

+1 for parrisW :cheers:

3 good smacks and she popped off. Good tip on making sure it was turned the right way on the bench so it didn't fly on the floor.

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Now the question is what all else needs to come off before I can split the case. A lot more parts under the flywheel than I expected to see. Pretty clean though.
 
+1 for parrisW :cheers:

3 good smacks and she popped off. Good tip on making sure it was turned the right way on the bench so it didn't fly on the floor.



Now the question is what all else needs to come off before I can split the case. A lot more parts under the flywheel than I expected to see. Pretty clean though.

Goon on ya mate!! Glad you got it done. I'm not too familiar with 65, been years since I've been in one, and I've never split the case on one, but you should be able to pull the coil and the whole breaker plate off, then split the case.
 
Goon on ya mate!! Glad you got it done. I'm not too familiar with 65, been years since I've been in one, and I've never split the case on one, but you should be able to pull the coil and the whole breaker plate off, then split the case.

That makes sense because it looks like the plate sorta covers the other crank seal.

Thank you again and cheers :cheers:
 
65 timing

Newbie question on the breaker plate and timing in general. There are slots on the breaker plate where the two bolts hold it to the case suggesting that it has some adjustment for location. Coils is mounted to the timing plate. How does the timing work on a saw like this? I don't see anything on the crank that interacts with the breaker. The flywheel is keyed to the crank so the magnets are obviously aligned that way but how do you set the breaker/coil location?

:newbie:
 
i didn't know....

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just for laughs, somthing i cooked up to mess with the local mullet heads. it needs a husky starter to complete it, haven't found one yet.donations accepted:biggrinbounce2:
 
Newbie question on the breaker plate and timing in general. There are slots on the breaker plate where the two bolts hold it to the case suggesting that it has some adjustment for location. Coils is mounted to the timing plate. How does the timing work on a saw like this? I don't see anything on the crank that interacts with the breaker. The flywheel is keyed to the crank so the magnets are obviously aligned that way but how do you set the breaker/coil location?

:newbie:

Look closely at this picture up in the left upper corner of the breaker plate and you can see where I made a mark on the breaker plate and the case with a small chisel.

This way you have marks to line it back up to the factory timing when putting it back together.

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Look closely at this picture up in the left upper corner of the breaker plate and you can see where I made a mark on the breaker plate and the case with a small chisel.

This way you have marks to line it back up to the factory timing when putting it back together.

:chainsaw:DARN IT:chainsaw:

I figured I screwed up...
 
2100 cd ?

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can't find any i.d. nos. on this, i think it may be a 2100CD but what year? looks like something fell on it. i have the recoil, muffler and clutch. it runs with lots of compression,have to clamp it to the ground with a board to pull on it.
the only no. i can see is on the flywheel side of the cylinder base, it is 833/2A. did this have a chain brake? what have i got here? this is the first old husky i've come across. thanks
 
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can't find any i.d. nos. on this, i think it may be a 2100CD but what year? looks like something fell on it. i have the recoil, muffler and clutch. it runs with lots of compression,have to clamp it to the ground with a board to pull on it.
the only no. i can see is on the flywheel side of the cylinder base, it is 833/2A. did this have a chain brake? what have i got here? this is the first old husky i've come across. thanks

Looks like a 2100 or 2101 with the aux oiler on it.
 
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