Husqvarna model so new even the company doesn't know about it

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
So true not everyone can afford professional chainsaws. As long as it does the job and your not over using it when you knows its not a professional saw why do you need something bigger and better. Many people do fine with homeowner saws.

I don't really get the logic of bashing a homeowner saw when this would be someones first saw and can't afford the professional saws. I thought husqvarna was going with Auto Tune on all there new model saws?
 
I see you have one of those high quality Earthquakes in your signature. Did you buy that one for your dog?

actually that is a mod guinea pig. i wasn't saying nobody should buy the plastic saws. just saying i won't. i agree with sawtroll because he doesn't care for them and i am the same. they just feel cheap kinda like that earthquake. the earthquake is also a test mule to see how tge chinese saws hold up against the abuse. life is good. live it and be happy. didn't mean to get you all bent out of shape. :cheers:
 
I'm not bent out of shape, just stating a point is all. I would have used exclamation points if I was bent out of shape lol. Everyone has different opinions on saws, it makes for a good debate.
 
450 Rancher with no oil adjustment? Sounds to me like a PP5020 wearing Husky plastics. Probably the same mechanicals, just different plastics/color....

450 was out way before 5020.

They do share some stuff. But the cylinders are different. The 450 has transfer covers the 5020 is old school. I think the 5020 was taken from the 450 design JMO after comparing and going from memory.

You can get brand new husqvarna 353 with 16" for $395 to your door. Add about $10 for each inch for longer bars.
 
Last edited:
Who really cares about plastic cased saws like that anyway - I surely don't! :givebeer:

Firewood saws: Jonsereds Raket 621 (1970), Husky 353G (2003), Euro Stihl MS361W (2004), Husky 372xpg (nov 2006), Husky 339xp (may 2007), Husky 346xpg New Edition (sept 2007), Jonsered 2153WH (april 2010), Husky 560xpg (nov 2011).

You own the ugliest dang plastic saw I have ever seen. 339 husky. :msp_wink::msp_rolleyes::msp_biggrin::laugh:
 
You own the ugliest dang plastic saw I have ever seen. 339 husky. :msp_wink::msp_rolleyes::msp_biggrin::laugh:

There actually is quite a bit of magnesium in that case, and they are very well handling saws! :msp_biggrin:

They suffer from having a clamshell style top end though, and aren't exactly a dream to work on....:givebeer:
 
LOL - You saw snobs crack me up. I cut all my wood with homeowner grade saws. My Dad has a 455 Rancher and loves it. I've run it several times and like it a lot too. The other day I told him that some people spend $800 - $1000 on pro grade saws and he gave me that "You've got to be kidding me" look.

Remember, these plastic homeowner saws are keeping your beloved European saw manufacturers in business.
 
I came here looking for the same answer about the 450 and 450 Rancher. From the Husqvara site, the 450 has a MSRP of $359.99 ad the 450 Rancher MSRP is $399.99. The only difference is that the Rancher has a 20" bar and the 450 has an 18" bar (and obviously a different size chain). They also have different model numbers listed.
I don't know parts pricing, but could the $40 difference in price be justified by the larger bar & chain size?
 
I came here looking for the same answer about the 450 and 450 Rancher.

Welcome to AS!

Sometimes models are sold through different channels at different price points. Sometimes, there are small differences. Sometimes the information on the Husky website is not correct or is inconsistent.

Some of this info has changes since this thread was started.

The 'Compare' feature on the Husky website shows some small differences (?) Not sure what 'Smart Start' is physically. Don't know why there would be 1/2 pound difference between power heads without bars/chains, or why the 450e would have a slightly faster chain speed. Based on previous information posted on their website, some of this may be due to errors.

Philbert
Screen shot 2014-03-30 at 12.34.43 PM.png

Screen shot 2014-03-30 at 12.35.52 PM.png
 
The story at least that I heard about the 450 rancher was that they couldn't meet the price point that lowes wanted to meet with the 455 Rancher, and Lowes wanted to sell a rancher, so they put the rancher tag on the 450.

The Husky web people definitely are not the best, even though I am guessing the relatively out of date information has more to do with the fact that the product specs, product information, product availability, distribution and branding all come from somewhat different people potentially in different countries.
 
BTW, I personally think that that saw would run best with a 16" bar. A saw dealer (instead of a big box store) may sell it to you with a different length bar. So, given the choices above, the 450 looks like the best deal to me.

Philbert
 
Thats what you run in to when a saw company is so desperate they have to sale saws at walmart.





Just poking the husky guys, The pro saw vs clamshell by a few people is crazy talk. Yes it will take you about 10 min longer to take down a clamshell saw. Wow so much more work lol. The pro saw will have a little more power, and weigh a little bit less with the same cc. It will not last any longer with out being rebuilt over a clamshell. I have a 291 im on my 9th gallon of fuel, that will be 67 tanks of gas. No problems what so ever, runs stronger then when new. For firewood cutting, and bucking the weight difference just does not matter. Then you have the people that always talk about side ways balance, and handling lol. I guess that matters if your going around curves, or running a obstacle course;)
 
It will not last any longer with out being rebuilt over a clamshell.

Sometimes they use better quality components, bearings, plating, etc., on pro-grade saws. Not always visible.

It's often easier to find replacement parts for the pro-grade saws if you are going to rebuild or repair, including aftermarket components.

Philbert
 
I spent some quality time w/ a 450e, it was the first new saw I ever bought. Hated the tool-less chain adjuster. The saw ran great and helped me really get into firewood burning. About 16 cords of apple wood later, the orchard wood supply was gone and I started cutting bigger oak and needed more power. The same dealer that sold me the 450 made me a pretty good deal on a brand new 357XP. Until you run an XP saw next to a Lowes saw, you won't under stand the huge difference!
Sounds to me like you'd be happy w a 450 (rancher or not) if you would just pull the trigger and buy it. Don't judge a chainsaws performance on what a customer service rep can tell you on the phone about specific model differences. A full line dealer sounds like your best bet.
 
The 450 has and was a bad seller for its msrp was much higher than the 455, in this market. I only ordered one of them in 4 years as a customer wanted one. Its a nice saw and leaps above the 455. Just at a price point it was lacking in my market.

A few years later to 2014, the msrp on the 450 has dropped and that of the 455 has jumped like crazy.

Rancher is solely a marketing term, as is the US Farm Tough marketing label.
 
BTW, I personally think that that saw would run best with a 16" bar. A saw dealer (instead of a big box store) may sell it to you with a different length bar. So, given the choices above, the 450 looks like the best deal to me.

Philbert
I never understood that - if you were going to run a 16" bar why not use a lighter 40cc saw with a 16" lo pro bar (narrower kerf)?
 
That does not answer my question, but rather repeats it



The link you provide is to a NON-RANCHER 450. You link to a plain vanilla 450. That's the problem I have brought up. Husqvarna can't explain, and you didn't, either.

Here is the LOWE's link to the 450 RANCHER (repeat RANCHER/RANCHER/RANCHER) they're selling. Notice that the bar has big letters saying "FARM TOUGH", as in RANCHER. (The one in your link simply says "HUSQVARNA."

Shop Husqvarna 50.2cc 2-Cycle 20-in Gas Chain Saw at Lowes.com

Anyone here have an answer to my detailed query?

Hey man, the guy sawtroll you said "this doesnt answer my question" knows more about husqvarna saws that just about anyone. ALSO your asking about a husky 450 its not a big deal and or really a new saw. Its a 50cc saw, its a decent non commercial grade saw and makes decent firewood saw. if your new here, respect the idea you dont know something and your looking for information.
 
I never understood that - if you were going to run a 16" bar why not use a lighter 40cc saw with a 16" lo pro bar (narrower kerf)?

The older Husky 350s and STIHL MS250s worked well with .325 chain and a 16 inch bar for 'all around use'. You can mount a longer bar, and some do for 'reach', but these saws don't really have the power to pull a longer, full bar if buried in the wood. I am assuming that the 450 would behave similarly.

Smaller, lighter saws with low profile or narrow kerf chains (or both!) are nice for limbing and smaller stuff, but they don't have the power for regular bucking (e.g. I have an ECHO CS400 with 3/8 low profile and 14 and 16 inch bars). I like a saw to run without being under heavy strain for regular cutting.

I do run narrow kerf (.325) chain on my 50cc saw (353) because that's what Husky sold it with, and I liked it and kept it. I have put a longer bar on that saw, but it really works it hard.

Although you can run other combinations, and people have different cutting conditions, I think that there are 'optimal' powerhead/bar length/chain pitch combinations for most saws.

JMHO

Philbert
 
Back
Top