Huztl MS660

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I have an Italian lift at work that torque specs are in kilogram meters...it's annoying having to always look that up.


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I would not put a wrench on the clutch to tighten the flywheel, or vice versa, that is a recipe for stripping things. Either block the piston with a rope through the spark plug hole, or if the cylinder is not on, block the crank with a piece of hardwood between it and the case.
 
If you snugging it up and not going crazy tight nothing should strip. Rope works to just don't let it go into the port


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Actually had a problem with stripping the flywheel nut when trying to disassemble a saw, so, as a matter of practice, I just always block either the piston or the crank, it is just safer!

And a reminder for those who don't know, the clutch on Stihls is usually reverse thread.
 
So unless there's something I missed, aside from a handfull of (cheap) parts that aren't included, and a few parts (oil pump drive and recoil assy?) that you should use OEM for, these kits are good to go?? Huztl.net is where you're getting them, right? And close to $100 in shipping?

Thanks,
Mike
 
Yes, where did you get oil pump?
Order a few extra screws and the missing parts like summer shutter and foil and rubber grommets for cowl

So unless there's something I missed, aside from a handfull of (cheap) parts that aren't included, and a few parts (oil pump drive and recoil assy?) that you should use OEM for, these kits are good to go?? Huztl.net is where you're getting them, right? And close to $100 in shipping?

Thanks,
Mike
 
My chain adjuster is fine so far. I did put some moly lube on it I had nearby. And ran it back and forth several times. Time will tell when I slap a 36" bar on this weekend and compare with my 064


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My chain adjuster is fine so far. I did put some moly lube on it I had nearby. And ran it back and forth several times. Time will tell when I slap a 36" bar on this weekend and compare with my 064


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I used SuperLube clear on mine and ran it back and forth a few times before putting a bar on it. It worked fine with a 24" bar on it, after I ran it in initial tuning there was more than enough bar oil getting to the chain adjuster to make lubrication a non-issue.
 
When he did those videos he ordered the parts separately ours came in a box over 6 months later so it's possible they improved. Like the starter, he said it was loud and did not catch smoothly. Mine works perfect, davhul replaced his rope. The insert could be rough the rope pulls though, we need to consider many things. I looked at the oiler closely and I thought the gear looked very good. But that might not have been the case then.

One thing I gave them the benefit of the doubt on the fuel caps and changed the sealing rings out. They still Leak badly so I was wrong thinking the extra sealing rings might be an upgrade

So again you gotta think it through
 
I tried different seals on the caps and still leaked also. Oem caps don't leak. My case crack fix is still holding although they have contacted me several times and sound concerned over it. We'll see how it goes.


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I ordered the fuel cap he said he would be here by Friday and picked up my foil and the m5x72x35 screws used when pulling the cases together.

Didn't your flywheel side puller set come with long screws? Or are you not going to use the splitter/puller sets?
 
I also had an issue with the fuel line from the tank to the carb leaking at the barb on the carb, I put a small spring clamp on it and fixed that problem right up....
 
It does. I didnt use it last time but might on next
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I also had an issue with the fuel line from the tank to the carb leaking at the barb on the carb, I put a small spring clamp on it and fixed that problem right up....

I used a a oem scrap I had for that little piece


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