I finally bit the bullet!!!

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irishcountry

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I was going to wait for spring but now that Baileys will be resricted to selling only over the counter I went ahead and ordered a husky 395xp. I have a few questions that I know will be addressed in the manual but I would like so advice from hands on guys that know from experience. First what is the best way to break in a saw (this one especially) for milling and how long does that take? Second is there a better gas/oil mix ratio after its broken in to ensure it won't overheat or be damaged since milling is more taxing on a powerhead and what octane gas is best. Third what kind of life span do you think I can get from this saw if it is taken care of properly assuming theres no defects to start with? I know you guys are probrobly tired of answering the same questions over and over and you have gotten this before but I do appreciate your time and knowledge. I have still been checking this site almost every day but I kinda tapered off on posting cuz I figured it was put up or shut up and now i'm gonna be most of the way there I now just need to decide on the mill type I think i'm gonna go GB since it looks a little sturdier. Well thanks to all that reply Happy Holidays take care!!
 
While it sounds like a glib response, I would follow the manual that comes with the saw. That way if there are any issues you can rest easy inside yourself if there are issues and you have to make a warranty claim.

Life span - how long is a piece of string- basically it depends on treatment and extent of use.

Bring on the milling pics.
 
I was looking at those. I noticed that Baileys prices weren't as good on that model as on others. It looks like you can get the same powerhead with a bar and three chains for less at Norwalk than you can get the powerhead alone at Bailey's. Of course, those would be cross-cut chains and if this was a dedicated slabbing saw they may not make much difference to you.

Did you get yours at Bailey's or elsewhere?

J. D.
 
395xp

Hey thanks for the replys. BobL Yeah that crossed my mind I will follow that advise it seems that i've heard talk about rickening up saw when you mill to keep them from overheating that was my concern getting excited and over looking something that might not be in the manual but is well know from expiriences from millers!! I have a 455 rancher (ok for bucking but higher hopes for this more professional saw) and it doesn't mention octane of gas or mixing a little more oil for more taxing jobs just the basics so I am assuming that will be the same for the other huskys. I did buy it from Baileys didn't shop around a ton but I paid what a 385xp would have cost around here with a 20-or 24" bar forgot which I was quoted they didn't carry the 395 and thats what I asked about they seemed a little perplexed like they may have never seen one they just said well we have the 385. Oh well I am just excited and hope to have some pictures in the future maybe nothing too big or unusual I have 2 dead ash one was cut and I sealed the end the other still standing they will be good practice. Later this summer we have about 3 to 4 softmaples and maybe a couple large pines that are way too close to our home that should come down and I would love to make a big dining table out of some of that and we will be remodeling our second floor and I wanted to build a couple of timberframe entrys to the 2 main doors to our home I think it will tie all our dormers together well. I already know I have a couple of useful timberframe books under the tree and I will do lots of research on that this winter can't wait!! Again Happy Holidays Thanks!!
 
I'm looking forward to hearing what you think of it. I was looking at the 390xp today at my local shop just for fun and it was $1,010.00 with about a 28" Husky bar. Needless to say, you saved a lot of money buying it from Bailey's. Did you get the full wrap or half?

J. D.
 
395xp

Hey Duff I got the Half wrap I figured it would be my best choice as far as clearance for milling i'm just picturing it will cut lower to the log than a full wrap not sure but I guess i'll find out!! I will let you know what I think of the saws performance but I will be a newbie so my opinion will be just that. I will make sure to post some pics thats the least I can do since others posts have been my inspiration for the last I don't know how many months! I forgot I have some downed willow that will probrobly be better practice before I get to the ash since thats a good hardwood. Once I get set up I am going to talk to my wifes cousin, he owns 11 acres behind our house of nothing but woods its been logged in recent years but every time I look out our back window I see beams and posts that I may be able to mill and use for sprucing up our barn too. Like I said can't wait to get going!! Thanks again!!
 
... First what is the best way to break in a saw (this one especially) for milling and how long does that take? Second is there a better gas/oil mix ratio after its broken in to ensure it won't overheat or be damaged since milling is more taxing on a powerhead...

To say there are lots of differing opinions on these two questions would be a gross understatement. If you read through the threads over on the chainsaw section of this forum, you will find that there is at least a general consensus that chainsaw milling does work a saw hard, and thus it would not be a good idea to take a brand new one and run it full bore down a log for 10+ minutes a pop all day long. You can find dealers and mechanics that will tell you to turn it on and run it from day one as if it was 10 years old, but I just don't buy that. At least one of the guys over there that repairs chainsaws for a living (forget screen name) says to run many tankfuls of gas through it just cutting firewood or "normal" chainsaw work first before using it as a milling saw only. I stuck a shorter bar on my 395 when I first got it and ran it for a month or so just bucking etc before I put it in the mill. Many also will tell you to turn the HI screw out a quarter turn or so to richen up the mixture for milling. I'm not a chainsaw mechanic, so can't vouch for that, but I did it to mine and left it that way ever since. But then I have always run all my saws a little rich anyway. The "experts" will tell you that once you mix up a batch, the oil won't separate from the gas, and there is no need to shake it up any further once it's been mixed. I can't bring myself to do that... I still shake the container EVERY time before I pour it into my saws, just force of habit. If all it really does is make me feel good about doing it, that's enough of a reason for me to keep that habit.

Fuel mixture ratio..... :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: ...some of the more "colorful" and in depth threads over on that chainsaw forum deal with this issue. Check them out some day, some interesting reading. Bottom line is many of the guys run richer mixtures in their saws, especially when milling, myself included. Personally I use only Stihl or Husky mix, and I run 42:1 in all my saws but the 395 (milling), in which I run 32:1. Been doing that for years, gonna keep doing that. 'Nuf said. You do want to use midgrade or hi grade gas though... even the manual that comes with the saw will tell you that. You also want to avoid gas that has been sitting around a while, as it tends to take on water even from moist air. Personally, any mix I have that happens to get more than a month old gets dumped into my car or van. That little bit of mix oil doesn't make any difference at all in your vehicle when mixed in with the gas already in your cars tank.

How long will your saw last????? Thats like asking how long will your car last... depends on how much you use it and whether you take care of it. Keep it clean (debris out of the cooling fins) and keep filter clean (including fuel filter in the tank)... keep chains sharp so it doesn't have to work it's heart out cutting through the wood, and feed it only quality mix, and it will last tens of years under normal (non professional) use. When I worked as a logger for a pulpwood company, we rarely got 4 seasons out of a saw, but those saws were in use all day, every day. My Dad has a Stihl 036 that has been in use semi-weekly if not weekly for over 20 years. Miles of chain, many a spark plug/filters, many a bar and couple changes of rope pull, but it still has tons of compression and works like a charm. I'm sure you can find others in the forum with similar experiences.
 
Thank You!

Thats the info I was looking for! I will probrobly richen it up too if it doesn't hurt the saw why not and like you said shaking the gas only takes a second or two and if it makes you feel better why not. I'm hoping to get some good life out of this baby an I will make sure I take good care of it but I know like you said with cars sometimes theirs a gremlin and things just go wrong I guess at least their should be parts for this saw for a long time. Thanks for the info that was what I was looking for. Happy Holidays
 
First what is the best way to break in a saw (this one especially) for milling and how long does that take? Second is there a better gas/oil mix ratio after its broken in to ensure it won't overheat or be damaged since milling is more taxing on a powerhead and what octane gas is best.

You know by now these are some "loaded" questions, but I had/have the exact same questions. Here are some add'l data points.

I just got my 395 and my manual says nothng about break-in. I haven't turned out the HI screw yet but likely will based on Woodshop's expertise.

I plan to run several tanks of gas through my 395 before milling. Some say 10, some say 20, and some say "run it like you stole it from the start". We'll see how many tanks I can run through it before I can't stand it and *HAVE* to mill. :)

I'm running 40:1 in all my saws and have started using Premium fuel based on info. here. I also use Sta-bil if it will sit for more than a couple of weeks.

My current milling saw is the 570. I bought it used and ugly from a landscaping crew who used it for Katrina clean-up. A local Mech. set me up with new plug/air filter and checked it out in general. It's been doing great since...probably 5 gal. of fuel so far with no issues...exclusively milling, BTW.
 
Thanks for the additional info I was afraid there would be no mention of break in in the manual thats why I asked here! I am going to be in the same boat as far as how many tanks till I can't stand it anymore. I just ran some erands and must say in all my years living here I have never seen so much downed wood around here. A company came through and cleared around the lines this last summer and the peices I been eyeballing are still where they started out!! Then again maybe I am just paying attention now that I am getting a mill!! Thanks for the reply
 
...I plan to run several tanks of gas through my 395 before milling. Some say 10, some say 20, and some say "run it like you stole it from the start". We'll see how many tanks I can run through it before I can't stand it and *HAVE* to mill. :) ...

I can understand not wanting to wait... I have to say the only way I was able to was that I had another large saw (MS460) that was holding the door while I broke in my 395. Hey... it's a well designed saw built to run hard and keep doing that day after day. If I were in your shoes, I'd mill with it right away as long as I did "light" milling... say 12 inch wide cants or less, short runs taking a break between boards. Again, I'm no chainsaw mechanic, but from what I have read here and in the chainsaw forum, it's the long 12-15 min nonstop wide open throttle working hard the whole time that might not be the best thing for the saw right out of the box.
 
If I were in your shoes, I'd mill with it right away as long as I did "light" milling... say 12 inch wide cants or less, short runs taking a break between boards. Again, I'm no chainsaw mechanic, but from what I have read here and in the chainsaw forum, it's the long 12-15 min nonstop wide open throttle working hard the whole time that might not be the best thing for the saw right out of the box.

Yep - that's what I would do, Buck some soft 12" stuff to about 3ft or 18" stuff to 2ft and get familiar with setiing up the mill, practice your stops and starts and getting square cants etc before you try the bigger longer stuff.
 
in breaking in an engine, you are (mostly) seating the piston rings...I will never buy opening an engine up to WOT right out of the box...it really should
be run under a light and varying loads and rpms for, say, a tank of gas,
before it is exposed to high heat/rpm/load of milling..when i get my 660
next week, I am going to demolish a tree for firewood...then I will
whack those big pine butt logs, and then maybe some harder stuff. hopefully not in the same day..:chainsaw:

kinda like me getting right out of bed in the morning and running five miles without warming up...sure I can do it..but why would I want to..it's gonna hurt.:givebeer:
 
You've really got me thinking about break-in so here's what I think I'd do:

I have never heard this applied to chainsaws but one of the most common things that is said about breaking engines in is frequently changing the load. This is where long, continuous cuts would be counterproductive. On the other hand, I think your Husky manual will say that you should always cut at full throttle (that is how a high-rpm engine likes to operate). Running a chainsaw loaded down without letting it wrap up may not be the best thing for it right out of the box. Cutting some small-diameter firewood would allow the saw to go from idle to max rpms over and over without loading down the engine. It may not be a bad idea.

I read some of the older threads about mix ratios--very interesting!

J. D.
 
As I understand it, seating the rings and running in bearings should be done under varying loads and speeds, because of the changes in frequency and pressure on the bearing surfaces themselves...guy that explained it to me was a double Phd physicist and gearhead...so I only understood about five words of it...much like russian...unless i'm drunk..then i'm fluent..:givebeer:

hmm...gotta look into that..

Quote from Stihl MS 290 manual..."factory new machine should not be run at high revs (full throttle off load) for the first three tank fillings. this avoids unnecessary high loads during the break in period. as all moving parts have to bed during break in, the frictional resistances in the engine are greater during this period. the engine develops it's maximum horsepower after about 5 to 15 tank fillings.

poorly written but there it is...:givebeer:

love that smilie.
 
awesome post irish. was just in the process of logging on to ask the SAME question! great responses all.
 
great posts

Thanks again for all the info it will come in useful now and down the road for anyone in the same situation with a new saw I knew I asked in the right place. I'm just hoping I have hair by the time my saw gets here I can't wait!! Merry Christmas to all!!
 
I was going to wait for spring but now that Baileys will be restricted to selling only over the counter I went ahead and ordered a husky 395xp. I have a few questions that I know will be addressed in the manual but I would like so advice from hands on guys that know from experience. First what is the best way to break in a saw (this one especially) for milling and how long does that take? Second is there a better gas/oil mix ratio after its broken in to ensure it won't overheat or be damaged since milling is more taxing on a power-head and what octane gas is best. Third what kind of life span do you think I can get from this saw if it is taken care of properly assuming there's no defects to start with? I know you guys are probably tired of answering the same questions over and over and you have gotten this before but I do appreciate your time and knowledge. I have still been checking this site almost every day but I kinda tapered off on posting cuz I figured it was put up or shut up and now i'm gonna be most of the way there I now just need to decide on the mill type I think i'm gonna go GB since it looks a little sturdier. Well thanks to all that reply Happy Holidays take care!!

Hi Irish ..... I was just reading your post , I have stihl saw's and they recommend using their brand oil at , I think it was 50/1 , I haven't had a look for a long time and any competitor's oil at 25/1 , I don't care who's oil it is , I run my saw's at 25/1 anyway . That comment about over the counter sale's , can you tell me what that relate's to? because I buy a bit of gear from them . Is that just Husky saw's or other stuff to? . Cheer's MM
 
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