I had a breakdown today...no not a chainsaw malfunction....read more below!

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I see a lot of that same stuff on ebay, wonder how long one of those saws will last, milling is pretty tough on saws isn't it. I bought one of those BB 440 short block and it cranked right up after putting saw back together Bucked about 1 ash with it , started cutting another one down and it started dying, put it back in the shed and got the old makita to finish cutting that tree, have not had a chance to mess with the 440 yet-- just saying --I'll bet most of that stuff probably come out of the same factory in China somewhere, I would not mind having a 660 or 880 for a couple hundred $$.
 
I see a lot of that same stuff on ebay, wonder how long one of those saws will last, milling is pretty tough on saws isn't it. I bought one of those BB 440 short block and it cranked right up after putting saw back together Bucked about 1 ash with it , started cutting another one down and it started dying, put it back in the shed and got the old makita to finish cutting that tree, have not had a chance to mess with the 440 yet-- just saying --I'll bet most of that stuff probably come out of the same factory in China somewhere, I would not mind having a 660 or 880 for a couple hundred $$.
Just make sure you have the 1X's bow up and pick straightest you can find. 2X's not needed for supporting 30-35lbs saw/mill rigs. If doing longer logs, a mid way cross piece can be added to prevent sag.
 
I have several good size trees that have fallen down on the mountain behind my house and was thinking maybe a 12' piece of 1x8 0r 1x10 run through the planer on one side would work to get the first cut with the alaskan mill I have yet to try.
 
I have several good size trees that have fallen down on the mountain behind my house and was thinking maybe a 12' piece of 1x8 0r 1x10 run through the planer on one side would work to get the first cut with the alaskan mill I have yet to try.
I think you are planning to lay the plank flat and I am suggesting two narrower planks on their edges like train rails that are attached to cross members screwed into the ends of the log. There are many youtube videos showing variations on how to mount them and it is much lighter than a wide plank laying flat on the log's top that requires wedges and screwing to the logs top.
 
I am thinking of all the downed trees calling out. I will get a piece of fir cut for the rails it will not twist.
 

Could not find the light setup video but this video will give you the general idea of the upright rail system. When using 1X4 or 1X6 for rails, crosstie the ends and a couple mid way spots with a few 1X4's. the mid span ties can be laid in angled to clear the log contour. the ends should be past the log so they attach flush to the rails. A 1x2 is leveled and attached to the log ends instead of the angle iron used in this video but if you have some perfed angle it will work fine.
 
The popsicle arrived! 2 660 cylinders and 390 cylinder are beautiful...clean ports and perfect nickasil. Case is threaded, perfect paint job...1000% happy. 36" mill went together easy peasy. Looks to comfortably span a 33" slab....again very very happy for $57+s on it.

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I see a lot of that same stuff on ebay, wonder how long one of those saws will last, milling is pretty tough on saws isn't it. I bought one of those BB 440 short block and it cranked right up after putting saw back together Bucked about 1 ash with it , started cutting another one down and it started dying, put it back in the shed and got the old makita to finish cutting that tree, have not had a chance to mess with the 440 yet-- just saying --I'll bet most of that stuff probably come out of the same factory in China somewhere, I would not mind having a 660 or 880 for a couple hundred $$.
Here is what to expect on a $271.89 MS660 delivered price to USA:

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