Fedaburger
ArboristSite Operative
The reason i like the flippy caps is you never over tighten them. When your hard at it its easy to overtighten gas and oil caps to be sure they dont leak. Grrr!!
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ShaneLogs
Addicted to ArboristSite
U'll like the flippy caps until your in the woods and you fill up your gas and bar oil and you close the gas cap and forget about the oil cap and you pick up the saw and spalsh! Oil all down your nice pants hahaha. I've done that more then once.
zogger
Tree Freak
*snort* You a strong boy....
LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
fix that stupid hole in the choke plate
and you can toss the damned punch bubbles in the trash.
a bit of prep work and soldering and your free of that nonsense.
with a proper choke you can put a new built dry carb and fuel lines on,
set the choke and generaly 3 easy pulls have things wet and primed.
edit to add search ability:
The carburetor in the picture is a wt-628 on a Homelite pse-3000 trimmer.
and you can toss the damned punch bubbles in the trash.
a bit of prep work and soldering and your free of that nonsense.
with a proper choke you can put a new built dry carb and fuel lines on,
set the choke and generaly 3 easy pulls have things wet and primed.
edit to add search ability:
The carburetor in the picture is a wt-628 on a Homelite pse-3000 trimmer.
Last edited:
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
you got a 460 without flip caps?
ShneaSIG
ArboristSite Operative
I like the flip caps. Actually, I like how easy it is to tell the caps are seated closed - that's the part I think is really helpful.
I knew what saw I was getting but it was an excuse so my dealers would let me run saws
I've used Stihl equipment for most of 13 years and we beat the hell out of stuff. Haven't had one break yet....... As for saws well the live and they die
ive had stihl 009 & 038 super, both good saws, most likely will own stihl again... I was just talkin about caps on new saws.
treeslayer2003
Addicted to ArboristSite
yea, done that with screw on caps too.
tjcoogan
ArboristSite Member
I did that recently when I gave one of my saws a clean and refill in the shed. Had the gas cap on and thought I had the oil cap on, next thing I see chain oil all over the place. To make things worse my dog walked through the oil trail and marched around the shed leaving me with a 30 minute cleanup. I double check each cap now it reduces the frustration if you get it wrong doing it in a hurry.
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
flashhole
Addicted to ArboristSite
So what is the purpose of the hole?
SawTroll
Information Collector
I have been pestured by a really bad "auto-correct" since my Windows version was upgraded - and haven't found a way to turn the dang thing off! :mad2::help:
LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
I Don't know all of the reasoning behind them, but here's what Ive experienced.
For an example Back in the early 80's Homelite had some trimmers known as st-80.
Whipper Snipper - SmokStak
These used a *solid* sliding plate (sorta like a guillotine) to function as a choke.
What happened was many people often missed or couldn't grasp the idea
of the first pop or sputter if the choke was closed when they tried to crank the engines.
or just couldn't figure out feathering the choke setting as an engine warmed up etc.
This *operator error* often resulted in a number of flooding complaints
and eventually Homelite issued a bulletin
telling shops to drill a hole of certain diameter at specified location in the plate.
the idea being to provide a partial air bleed
and reduce the chance of flooding the engine.
trouble with that is you now have to pull a lot harder/faster to overcome the air bleed
in order to get the fuel up with a cold engine.
then when you add the lean set carb issues... you end up with seriously hard starting
(think broken recoils here)
so someone added the punch bubbles as a compensation to move the fuel.
The drawback to a solid choke plate is You can wet foul a plug if you're not paying attention
but that's the flipside of having the ability to easily get the fuel pulled up and into the engine.
This is also around the time you began to see the bulbs appearing on our equipment.
Basically it was a "dumbing down" of the system to try catering to the average masses.
But in my *personal* opinion it's mainly like bumper link chains.
Just another thing for the average masses that makes things difficult
for the ones of us who understand the tool.
Unfortunately, before I found out about sites like this
I tossed my old Homelite books and most of the old Briggs and Tecumseh stuff too.
Or else I could post a pic of that service bulletin for yall.
and Yeah I kick my self for it regularly now when reading some peoples questions.
Rusty Barlow
ArboristSite Operative
Well, I guess I have a love/hate relationship with flippy caps. Got an MS250 for dirt because it sat in the case with a leaky cap and soaked the coil, err "ignition module". Love. Dampt teeny bottle necked oil res on the MS250 won't let the cap seat right if over full - just topped of my left shoe. Kinda hate.
No.
Purge (not on carb) pulls air from diaphragm chamber, sucking fuel in. Bulb on carb pumps fuel from tank to chamber & vents gases to tank.
Primer discharges mix into carb throat. Not many of them around anymore.
You'd know this, if anybody. Unless you just work "below the deckplates."
I have been running Stihl with flippy caps (now have 4 of them) since they first came out. Have had no breakage of any kind on any of them including the flippy caps. My saws live a very rough life.
Harry K
M
moody
Guest
When you purge the line you're ridding it of air. Moving the air out and fuel up the line would cause the line to be primed. No reason for you to be rude.
My $0.02
My only big squawk about Stihl Flippy Caps is that they will sometimes snap down and are not closed all the way. Then they catch you by surprise and leak like a sieve. That teaches you rather quickly to be patient with them and double check that they are, in fact, closed.
Sometimes flippies are also darn right tough to open, as if they were sitting on a vacuum. Other than that, they are "perfect". Heheheheheheh :bang:
Oh, and BTW, the new tank housings that fit on several of the older machines now have flippies. Meanwhile the bar oil tank has the old style screw cap. So, if you have to replace the tank housing, you end up with one flippy and one screw cap. I guess variety is the spice of life.
My only big squawk about Stihl Flippy Caps is that they will sometimes snap down and are not closed all the way. Then they catch you by surprise and leak like a sieve. That teaches you rather quickly to be patient with them and double check that they are, in fact, closed.
Sometimes flippies are also darn right tough to open, as if they were sitting on a vacuum. Other than that, they are "perfect". Heheheheheheh :bang:
Oh, and BTW, the new tank housings that fit on several of the older machines now have flippies. Meanwhile the bar oil tank has the old style screw cap. So, if you have to replace the tank housing, you end up with one flippy and one screw cap. I guess variety is the spice of life.
Nitroman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Gentlemen,
When I bought my Stihl BT45 gas drill off eBay, I downloaded a free BT45 owner's manual on the Stihl website. Now...I appreciate something that has been finely engineered, but when the company spends two (2), solid pages of an owner's manual to describe how to open, close and adjust, if necessary, the &*#dammed gas cap, it tells you they've invented the $7,000 hammer.
Flippy caps can rot in Hell.
When I bought my Stihl BT45 gas drill off eBay, I downloaded a free BT45 owner's manual on the Stihl website. Now...I appreciate something that has been finely engineered, but when the company spends two (2), solid pages of an owner's manual to describe how to open, close and adjust, if necessary, the &*#dammed gas cap, it tells you they've invented the $7,000 hammer.
Flippy caps can rot in Hell.
