I made some chain vises

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I maybe have an idea to improve your vise even though it looks like an excellent tool as it is. Maybe this would be too impractical and/or too costly make but what about making the vise longer so there is not so much loose chain hanging down below so that the chain does not catch on anything when moving it. Maybe the vise could be adjustable length wise for different lengths of chain. What do you think? I know it would be more costly as there is more material involved.

For example, to sharpen my 25" chains, I have been using my 25" bar without the powerhead that I use on my Stihl 441 and clamp the bar in a bench vise. The reason I don't just install the bar and chain on the powerhead is I have been sharpening multiple chains and didn't want to have to deal with reinstalling each chain. Anyways, with just a bar and chain, there is quite a bit of chain hanging and every time I rotate the chain, it wants to catch on the vise. I have been doing the same with my 20" chains.

I got this idea from a device called the Chain Meister where you attach a device to the end of a bar and you are able to tighten the chain just like it was installed on the saw. https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=229&item=1392
If you just had one chain to sharpen, you would have to take the bar off the saw unless you had a spare bar lying around. And it has to be the correct bar for the chain you are working on.

BTW, how do you spell vise as in bench vise? Is it vise or vice?
 
Vise. 'Vice' is a bad habit.

When I made my homemade filing vise I first planned to make it extra long so that I could file lots of cutters at a time. But I made my 'prototype' smaller so that I could also file small loops for my pole pruners (8 and 10 inch bars).

I am happy with this smaller size now, since it does both short and long chains, and advancing the chain along the rails is pretty easy.

What I would consider for future generations of my vise are 'outriggers' to support the extra chain at each end. These were present on some of the old Oregon filing vises (posted photos lost), and similar to support wheels seen on some chain spinners an the 511AX grinder vise.

As the chain advances vertically to the top of the vise the drive links hold the jaws open at the sides, preventing full pressure to be applied at the top of the jaws. Holding the links off to the sides would eliminate this interference.

Philbert
 
As the chain advances vertically to the top of the vise the drive links hold the jaws open at the sides, preventing full pressure to be applied at the top of the jaws. Holding the links off to the sides would eliminate this interference.

Philbert

My vises ''toe clamp'' the chain therefore there is clearance on the edges where the chain feeds vertically.
 
My vises ''toe clamp'' the chain therefore there is clearance on the edges where the chain feeds vertically.

I included some spacers at the bottom to do this, but they still need some finessing to work right (please remember that I am still on my 'Generation 1' vise!).

The 'outriggers' would address that, as well as the comment about managing extra chain.

I did not understand their purpose when I saw them in the old photos, but assuming that they perform this dual purpose.

Philbert
 
M
When I clamp Mikes vise into my bench vise, I space it out with a 2" block behind it. Keeps the chain from catching on the bench its mounted to.

My grandfather taught me to install a vise on the corner of a bench with the back fixed jaw lined up on both sides with an 1/8 inch clearance from both edges of the work surface. I can then clamp my work standing up 90 degrees in two directions. No problems with my chain clearing either edge of my work surface.
 
I would love to order one of your Gen 4 vises, but I'm unsure how to go about it. (I also sent an email to your gmail account.)
 
I would love to order one of your Gen 4 vises, but I'm unsure how to go about it. (I also sent an email to your gmail account.)
Cont act me and decide what vise you would like ( G2 G3 G4 ) which options (timberline atop or standard) and ask for a price.

I accept check, or money order but prefer PayPal.

[email protected] is my PayPal account.

Please let me know how I can help you!
 
I'm so woefully ignorant of computer stuff, that I'll probably screw this up. I DO have a Paypal account, so that part should be fairly easy.
I'd like the G4 model, and all of my saws are Stihl, so I guess I need the "standard" type.
How do I get you the shipping info? Just post it on this site? E-mail it to you?
Many thanks,
Terry Johnson
 
I'm so woefully ignorant of computer stuff, that I'll probably screw this up. I DO have a Paypal account, so that part should be fairly easy.
I'd like the G4 model, and all of my saws are Stihl, so I guess I need the "standard" type.
How do I get you the shipping info? Just post it on this site? E-mail it to you?
Many thanks,
Terry Johnson
 
You can either start a conversation with him or email him your address.

Also I could be wrong but when you send him the money through paypal, I think you can also include a message with your address.

BTW, the type of saw you have does not indicate if you need the standard version. With the standard version, you can't mount a tool like the timberline on the vise. With the other version, he makes a cut out so the sharpening jigs will fit.

If you just hand file, then the standard version is fine. If you are always looking to do things differently, then get the timberline ready version.

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks for the help. I've never visited a forum before, so I don't even know how to start a conversation. My saws are all Stihl; MS460 w/25" bar, MS441 w/ 20" bar, and an MS 200 w/ a 12" bar. I plan to hand sharpen all of them.
Thanks again,
Terry J.
 
What Memory is saying is that many guys use some type of filing guide when hand sharpening. There are many types/styles: flat file holders, roller guides, Granberg - style filing frames; as well as other types of sharpening aides, including the Timberline (carbide cutter) and Atop (square filed chain).

Most of these are designed to fit over a chain mounted on a standard guide bar. Some of these will not work with a standard chain vise, because it is thicker than a guide bar.

Homelite410 has modified some of his vises to work with some of these guides. So you should talk to him about any that you use now, or think that you might use in the future, so that you order a compatible vise if you go with one of his. They will still let you free-hand file if that is your preference.

Philbert
 
Thanks Memory & Philbert, for another "Aha" moment. I have since looked up Timberline to discover that it's a sharpening tool and not a brand of saw. Sometimes I act like an imbecile, and sometimes it's not an act. At last I think I understand what I'm actually after. (Man, this is embarrassing.)
Thank you again.
 
I use a stihl file guide, the 20 dollar one, and the gen 4 or the gen 2 clamp. They are well worth it!!! The gen 4 allows you to sharpen 4 cutters before moving the chain, the gen 2 does 2 or 3. I am very happy with these vises and my chains are sharper than out of the box!!!

I personally like the gen 4 a little more because I can sharpen a little faster on it, but the gen 2 works very also.

And ditto on the bar adapters!!! very well made
 
So on the gen 4 with timberline, do you move the chain after each tooth or does the timberline slide across the top of the vice? If you move the chain after each tooth does it take much time and do you have to loosen the vise? thanks
 
So on the gen 4 with timberline, do you move the chain after each tooth or does the timberline slide across the top of the vice? If you move the chain after each tooth does it take much time and do you have to loosen the vise? thanks
It would be the same as on a bar. You may choose to clamp the vise or not. The center thumb screw is used in the timberline also.
 

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