I'm thinking about building my own splitter.

[MrGiggles]

For the past week I have been contemplating building my own wood splitter. I have burned wood for my whole life but have been splitting in with a maul, but I've had enough of that. My biggest question is what I would use for a pump. I have a tight budget right now, so as cheap as possible. My dad said that a power steering pump might work, will it?

I have a cylinder, I will post specs in a minute.
I have an engine (5hp B&S).
I have a welder.
I have the time/skill.
I have the hoses.

All i need is metal and a pump of some sort. What kind of pump do you guys recommend? Also what kind of valve will I need?

Thanks.

 

[biggenius29]

The valve and the pump will be the most expensive part of the project. I got my stuff from Northern Tool, the valve was around $70 and the pump I think my 16 gpm pump was around $170. A power steering pump will not do it, unless you want to split one piece of wood a day.

The size of your pump depends on the size of the cylinder.

 

[MrGiggles]

The valve and the pump will be the most expensive part of the project. I got my stuff from Northern Tool, the valve was around $70 and the pump I think my 16 gpm pump was around $170. A power steering pump will not do it, unless you want to split one piece of wood a day.

The size of your pump depends on the size of the cylinder.

Ok, throw that idea out of the way then.


I just looked at the cylinder. It is a Lion Hydraulics 30TR12. It has a 4 1/8" bore, and is 14.5" long (not stroke). I suppose it probably has a 10-12" stroke. It says the operating PSI is 2500. What kind of pump is ideal for this? What kind of valve?

 

[sawinredneck]

With the 5 horse motor you are limited to an 11 or 9GPM two stage pump. Horsepower to GPM is VERY relevant!! To run 16GPM you really need 8hp or more.
You will also need a beam of some sort, and a resivoir for the fluid. An axle of some sort, wheels, tires, spindles, lug nuts, and a filter.
I will discourage you as much as I can, there are many fine splitters that can be had for decent money. And it takes tripple the time you think, as well as grinding wheels, cutoff wheels, gas, and welding consumables. It's not as cheap as you may think.
Check Craigs list, check the local paper, watch for closeouts at the farm stores etc.
Check out American CLS, GREAT people from what I have dealt with them.
I am also looking at these: www.ramsplitters.com as an option. Just for cost, price includes shipping to a truck dock or buisness address!
I don't think I would buy a Speeco or a Huskee myself, but I must say the customer service has gotten rave reviews (Link on the top of the page)
Measure the cylinder you have for bore and stroke, there are calculators to figure cycle time. Do some research, put a LOT of thought into this. I built a monster and it bit me in the butt! I am really thinking hard if I want to build or buy a more realistic machine.

 

[MrGiggles]

With the 5 horse motor you are limited to an 11 or 9GPM two stage pump. Horsepower to GPM is VERY relevant!! To run 16GPM you really need 8hp or more.
You will also need a beam of some sort, and a resivoir for the fluid. An axle of some sort, wheels, tires, spindles, lug nuts, and a filter.
I will discourage you as much as I can, there are many fine splitters that can be had for decent money. And it takes tripple the time you think, as well as grinding wheels, cutoff wheels, gas, and welding consumables. It's not as cheap as you may think.
Check Craigs list, check the local paper, watch for closeouts at the farm stores etc.
Check out American CLS, GREAT people from what I have dealt with them.
I am also looking at these: www.ramsplitters.com as an option. Just for cost, price includes shipping to a truck dock or buisness address!
I don't think I would buy a Speeco or a Huskee myself, but I must say the customer service has gotten rave reviews (Link on the top of the page)
Measure the cylinder you have for bore and stroke, there are calculators to figure cycle time. Do some research, put a LOT of thought into this. I built a monster and it bit me in the butt! I am really thinking hard if I want to build or buy a more realistic machine.

I understand what you are saying, but I'd really like to build this myself, because I hope it will end up being cheaper, and it is quite the accomplishment for a 15 year old.

I have all the tools required, i only need the metal blade for my chopsaw, and maybe some smaller things.

For metal there is a scrapyard outside of town that will hopefully have some I-beam available. My dad is going there sometime and will look, if they don't I can go get some this weekend when I go to a different town.

The 5hp was just if worst comes to worst I can use one of the two 5hp's I have, but I am not totally set on an engine yet. I can probably score a non-running bigger motor I can fix up and use. The splitter won't be used for splitting 36" solid oak, but smaller stuff. Not all that heavy duty.

 

[sawinredneck]

I'm not saying it can't be done, many members here have done it. But most, if not all of them, will tell you it cost a lot more than they had figured, and took a lot longer than they thought.
Time.
Time.
Time.
And more time!!
Steel has gone through the roof!!
Look at as many designs as you can, Google is you're freind!! See what does and doesn't work, try as many brands as you can. Get ideas, then mold them into what YOU want to have.
Take your time, make it right. If it doesn't look like it will work, it probably wont!!
TAKE YOUR TIME!!

 

[MrGiggles]

I've been fooling around with Google Sketchup and I think I have come up with a design that I want to build. What do you guys think of it?

 

[biggenius29]

I'm not saying it can't be done, many members here have done it. But most, if not all of them, will tell you it cost a lot more than they had figured, and took a lot longer than they thought.
Time.
Time.
Time.
And more time!!
Steel has gone through the roof!!
Look at as many designs as you can, Google is you're freind!! See what does and doesn't work, try as many brands as you can. Get ideas, then mold them into what YOU want to have.
Take your time, make it right. If it doesn't look like it will work, it probably wont!!
TAKE YOUR TIME!!

Good point, I built my own thinking it would be cheaper than buying one, and a few weeks after I finished mine, I found a bunch on the trading post on this site, and craigslist for cheaper than I built mine.

I would get a minimum of 4" cylinder and at least a 24" stroke, I also wouldnt go with less than a 16gpm pump, you can get a 11gpm pump for a few bucks cheaper, but while you are bulding a splitter dont go cheap, you will regret it later. If a few extra bucks will break the bank, wait till you get the cash and in the mean time split wood by hand. I have a 16gpm pump and am wishing I had a 28.

 

[sawinredneck]

I've been fooling around with Google Sketchup and I think I have come up with a design that I want to build. What do you guys think of it?

As I have seen splitters after HARD useage, I don't like that plan at all!!
The slots in the beam will weaken it too much. I have seen beams "rainbowed" and "cupped" to te point of not being usable.
The main strength is in the top flange, you just created two pieces of steel "flapping in the breeze" by making those cuts.
The best I have seen, was a guy used a piece of box tubing to "wrap" the I-beam and built his push block on top of that. But that wont be cheap!

 

[rdbrumfield]

Do not put slots in the main rail. I shoved my knife right off the end, I mean broke the beam half in two. I rebuilt it and it has bee ok since. It is made of heavy I beam and I do some serious splitting. If I can get my pics to come up I will show you what I mean.
I first built it 25yrs ago and it worked off my tractor. It has a 10ft Aframe with an 8000lb winch for picing the rounds up to the knife. I have a T knife so when I push the wood, I get two pieces off the bottom of the round while the rest hangs in the tongs. Of couse I pick by hand what is easy, but use the tongs on the rest up to 7ft in dia if need be.
My cyl is 5 in so I am pushing well over 35ton with a 25hp honda and 21 gpm on a single stage pump. No stepping down here just brute force.

I know this is an extreme splitter for most folks, but two days and my winters wood is done and on to the neighbors, inlaws, well you get the idea lol.

Don't know what is going on with the picture thing. Will take new ones and get them out.

 

[jwfirebird]

i think hes in the same boat as i was before i built my splitter. i have to disagree about going all out on the first try. in fact if you put it together with what you have you can upgrade as you get deals and ultimately spend less. i now have a splitter that splits bigger than most bought splitters. i probably have about 100 bucks into the whole thing. anything is better than splitting by hand.

as far as your design, i agree to skip the slots. you can just drop some angle down around the i beam on the part that attaches to your cylinder. you'll probably want to add some kick outs on the blade part also.

 

[Suz]

<snip>

I have all the tools required, i only need the metal blade for my chopsaw, and maybe some smaller things.

<snip> .

I don't know if you are talking about using a CMS or not, but do not try to use a abrasive type chop saw blade on a compound miter saw. The saw's bearings will not take the pressure and abuse that you will subject the saw to by cutting metal with it.

Jim

 

[MrGiggles]

Good point, I built my own thinking it would be cheaper than buying one, and a few weeks after I finished mine, I found a bunch on the trading post on this site, and craigslist for cheaper than I built mine.

I would get a minimum of 4" cylinder and at least a 24" stroke, I also wouldnt go with less than a 16gpm pump, you can get a 11gpm pump for a few bucks cheaper, but while you are bulding a splitter dont go cheap, you will regret it later. If a few extra bucks will break the bank, wait till you get the cash and in the mean time split wood by hand. I have a 16gpm pump and am wishing I had a 28.

My cylinder is a 4 inch bore with a 12-14" stroke I'm pretty sure. I have to cut our wood short anyways because our stove has a small opening.

As I have seen splitters after HARD useage, I don't like that plan at all!!
The slots in the beam will weaken it too much. I have seen beams "rainbowed" and "cupped" to te point of not being usable.
The main strength is in the top flange, you just created two pieces of steel "flapping in the breeze" by making those cuts.
The best I have seen, was a guy used a piece of box tubing to "wrap" the I-beam and built his push block on top of that. But that wont be cheap!

Do not put slots in the main rail. I shoved my knife right off the end, I mean broke the beam half in two. I rebuilt it and it has bee ok since. It is made of heavy I beam and I do some serious splitting. If I can get my pics to come up I will show you what I mean.
I first built it 25yrs ago and it worked off my tractor. It has a 10ft Aframe with an 8000lb winch for picing the rounds up to the knife. I have a T knife so when I push the wood, I get two pieces off the bottom of the round while the rest hangs in the tongs. Of couse I pick by hand what is easy, but use the tongs on the rest up to 7ft in dia if need be.
My cyl is 5 in so I am pushing well over 35ton with a 25hp honda and 21 gpm on a single stage pump. No stepping down here just brute force.

I know this is an extreme splitter for most folks, but two days and my winters wood is done and on to the neighbors, inlaws, well you get the idea lol.

Don't know what is going on with the picture thing. Will take new ones and get them out.

Ok, I have tweaked that design with the slots gone.

Better?

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

My cylinder is a 4 inch bore with a 12-14" stroke I'm pretty sure. I have to cut our wood short anyways because our stove has a small opening.





Ok, I have tweaked that design with the slots gone.

Better?

The push slide design needs to be changed as the "hook"(holding it to the I beam) on the slide will break quickly. Tremendous force there and on your wedge. I would suggets going to a Home Depot/ Lowes and take a camera to get some ideas.

Here is what Sawinredneck was referrring to:

I get most all my steel at the scrap yard by the pound. Most of it is new or barely used. If your near a larger town ask around as most have a place that does it.

As other said, you can start out small but I'd suggest to go a little overkill on the I beam. It's the "heart" of your project. If you can't find a large enough on you can weld 2 of them together to make up for it as long as the width isn't too large. We've done that before with good results.

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

Keep asking questions!

MrG

Here is a link to a thread about my thoughts about building a splitter. I got a lot of good responses and it might make some good reading for you.

What CAD are you using? My design was done in SolidWorks.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=1295153#post1295153

You're doing well by asking questions before jumping in!

Search the internet for ideas, Craigslist (you might be able to find a used one for a good price)......

Keep asking questions the rest of your life! There is always someone that can add to your knowledge! There is no one that knows it all, they might act that way....but they're hurting themselves by not asking questions like you're doing.


Here is what I think the others are telling you about what they think should be changed about your design. I started modeling it up in SW but didn't have the time. The bad arrow is trying to show the force that I think will be on the pusher. You might want to lengthen the attachment to the I beam.

 

[rdbrumfield]

Kevin, now you have the idea. for the base of the moving pushblock. Make it at least 6-8 inches long as when it hits the block it will try to tip back and pry up with the cyl pushing. If you don't it will rip it off the I beam.
I placed my ram above center just a bit as my main resistance it 6 inches high. Some folks have diferent knives they can slip over the one main knife. This raises the center of pressure. If you don't have a good solid base for the moving parts it will give you trouble.
One other thing I did was weld a flat plate above the pushblock. Makes it nice to let a heavy piece of wood ride the ram back. When I finish a stroke, I just tip the block up and let it ride back, drop it forward and push again.
I lost an elbow over half a lifetime ago and I have learned to make things a bit easier to make up the difference in manpower.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

I don't know how much experience you have welding but thought I'd mention a tip for you. A common thing most do not do is backcut the edges when welding. A simple thing to do and increases your strength dramatically. Put a 45 on the edge and if welding on both sides, like you should, do it on both sides as this poorly drawn pic shows

I always double weld everything on stress parts of splitters. Meaning, after filling the 45 degree backcut your weld will be basically flush, then I add a second larger bead bridging both pieces of steel and increasing weld surface area.

For example in the above pic: this push ram has six 8 inch 2 double beads on each side of each piece of steel. Gussets on the side increase strength of attachment while at the same time supports the push ram. You want to spread the load as opposed to putting all the stress on one area. The higher you make the push ram or wedge the more stress you create and has to be built to compensate for it. After years of making things you'll be able to see where something is going to break, aka, the weak point.

We've all learned the hard way, your ahead of the game by asking.

 

[triptester]

Only in rare moments is the line of resistance on the push plate directly inline with the cylinder's center line. As the diameter of the wood gets larger more pressure is applied to the top of the push plate and with stringy wood uneven pressure is often applied to the sides of the push plate. The slide portion should be equal to the lenght and width of the push plate.

 

[Patrick62]

go for it...

At 15 I would have been crazy enough to consider something like this...

Now the details...

You have a 5hp engine. 11GPM pump is all it will run. It won't be quick, but that is okay. functional. Your ram is too short to be really practical. However, you can use it, just make the beam long enough that a longer ram can be added later.

Push and wedge have already been discussed.

You will need a log splitter valve....

You will need to determine how to connect the engine to the pump, and the coupler as well. Lovejoy's are common...

The welding, and fabricating is the fun part. No purchase of a splitter is going to replace the "fun" of doing it yourself. Ask me how I know that!

 

[MrGiggles]

MrG

Here is a link to a thread about my thoughts about building a splitter. I got a lot of good responses and it might make some good reading for you.

What CAD are you using? My design was done in SolidWorks.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=1295153#post1295153

You're doing well by asking questions before jumping in!

Search the internet for ideas, Craigslist (you might be able to find a used one for a good price)......

Keep asking questions the rest of your life! There is always someone that can add to your knowledge! There is no one that knows it all, they might act that way....but they're hurting themselves by not asking questions like you're doing.


Here is what I think the others are telling you about what they think should be changed about your design. I started modeling it up in SW but didn't have the time. The bad arrow is trying to show the force that I think will be on the pusher. You might want to lengthen the attachment to the I beam.

I will revise the design in a bit, and thanks for the encouragement as well. I am just using the standard Google Sketchup. I first started using it to design speaker and subwoofer enclosures.

The push slide design needs to be changed as the "hook"(holding it to the I beam) on the slide will break quickly. Tremendous force there and on your wedge. I would suggets going to a Home Depot/ Lowes and take a camera to get some ideas.

Here is what Sawinredneck was referrring to:

I get most all my steel at the scrap yard by the pound. Most of it is new or barely used. If your near a larger town ask around as most have a place that does it.

As other said, you can start out small but I'd suggest to go a little overkill on the I beam. It's the "heart" of your project. If you can't find a large enough on you can weld 2 of them together to make up for it as long as the width isn't too large. We've done that before with good results.

The town I live in has a scrap yard, I'd like to get my metal there but I have not been there yet to look. If not there is a bigger town 15 miles away.

I don't know how much experience you have welding but thought I'd mention a tip for you. A common thing most do not do is backcut the edges when welding. A simple thing to do and increases your strength dramatically. Put a 45 on the edge and if welding on both sides, like you should, do it on both sides as this poorly drawn pic shows

I always double weld everything on stress parts of splitters. Meaning, after filling the 45 degree backcut your weld will be basically flush, then I add a second larger bead bridging both pieces of steel and increasing weld surface area.

For example in the above pic: this push ram has six 8 inch 2 double beads on each side of each piece of steel. Gussets on the side increase strength of attachment while at the same time supports the push ram. You want to spread the load as opposed to putting all the stress on one area. The higher you make the push ram or wedge the more stress you create and has to be built to compensate for it. After years of making things you'll be able to see where something is going to break, aka, the weak point.

We've all learned the hard way, your ahead of the game by asking.

I in fact just learned how to weld, and this will be my first major welding project. My dad is a very good welder and can help me when needed. Thanks for the tips.

Only in rare moments is the line of resistance on the push plate directly inline with the cylinder's center line. As the diameter of the wood gets larger more pressure is applied to the top of the push plate and with stringy wood uneven pressure is often applied to the sides of the push plate. The slide portion should be equal to the lenght and width of the push plate.

At 15 I would have been crazy enough to consider something like this...

Now the details...

You have a 5hp engine. 11GPM pump is all it will run. It won't be quick, but that is okay. functional. Your ram is too short to be really practical. However, you can use it, just make the beam long enough that a longer ram can be added later.

Push and wedge have already been discussed.

You will need a log splitter valve....

You will need to determine how to connect the engine to the pump, and the coupler as well. Lovejoy's are common...

The welding, and fabricating is the fun part. No purchase of a splitter is going to replace the "fun" of doing it yourself. Ask me how I know that!

I just planned on using pulleys and a belt or chain, but I'm open to other ideas.

I love working on metal or wood, and fixing or tweaking whatever. I also have plenty of free time to allocate to this project. All I need is some metal to get the ball rolling.