Increasing the power of my splitter

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crowbait

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I've got a splitter with a 9hp Honda engine. I don't know the gpm of the pump. I think it's a 2.5" cylinder or 3".

I'm splitting large cottonwood chunks, about 20" long. When these chunks get up around 20" in diameter, the ram stalls. I have to then bang the chunk off the wedge, and slab it, rather than go down the middle. (standard 2 way wedge).

My engine bogs down a bit...but far from killing. I'm not a mechanical/hydraulic engineer, but isn't there an adjustment I can make to my valve to increase the power, before it stalls? Something called the "detent" ?

I'm thinking that if I'm using my engine to its fullest, then when the ram stalls, my engine should bog down to the verge of killing. When my ram stalls, my engine barely bogs down.

So...can someone tell me about some "nut" I'm to turn on the valve that'll increase the pressure before the bypass kicks in?

I know some of you guys know what I'm talking about here....so give me some wisdom.....
 
I've got a splitter with a 9hp Honda engine. I don't know the gpm of the pump. I think it's a 2.5" cylinder or 3".

I'm splitting large cottonwood chunks, about 20" long. When these chunks get up around 20" in diameter, the ram stalls. I have to then bang the chunk off the wedge, and slab it, rather than go down the middle. (standard 2 way wedge).

My engine bogs down a bit...but far from killing. I'm not a mechanical/hydraulic engineer, but isn't there an adjustment I can make to my valve to increase the power, before it stalls? Something called the "detent" ?

I'm thinking that if I'm using my engine to its fullest, then when the ram stalls, my engine should bog down to the verge of killing. When my ram stalls, my engine barely bogs down.

So...can someone tell me about some "nut" I'm to turn on the valve that'll increase the pressure before the bypass kicks in?

I know some of you guys know what I'm talking about here....so give me some wisdom.....

You may be talking about increasing the system working pressure. There is often an adjustment for the system pressure on the control valve. You may have to put shims under a spring or turn a screw with a jamb nut to increase the pressure. Most splitter systems run around 2200 to 2500 psi. The higher the pressure the more heat that you generate and the sooner things wear out. Use a guage and make sure the system is at normal operating temp when you set the pressure. A larger ram is the best way to get more splitting power.
 
Yes, the builder of my splitter told me there's a nut I can turn on the valve...but I'm not home right now, to look it over.

I figure I want to increase my pressure, to the point of my engine stalling before the wedge stops. Just seems like cottonwood shouldn't be stopping things on me.

I'm wondering if anyone has done this before....how many turns do I give this "nut"....and in which direction?
 
Some woods like elm and cottonwood will tear or shear on odd grained pieces. Splitter works harder than splitting straight grained oaks and maple. Most control valves have a relief adjustment. No set number of turns for setting up the system pressure. You need a gauge that goes to at least 3000 lbs.And Frank already outlined the procedure.
 
Yes, the builder of my splitter told me there's a nut I can turn on the valve...but I'm not home right now, to look it over.

I figure I want to increase my pressure, to the point of my engine stalling before the wedge stops. Just seems like cottonwood shouldn't be stopping things on me.

I'm wondering if anyone has done this before....how many turns do I give this "nut"....and in which direction?


It is a adjustment to set the pressure that is usually done with a guage. The engine, pump, hydraulic tank and ram should be designed to work together. I wouldn't set the pressure over 2500 psi.
 
Without seeing your splitter we can only quess but it sounds like the cylinder is a little small for the wood you are trying to split.
Some control valves have a pressure relief adjustment that will allow you to increase pressure.
To check what bore size your cylinder is measure the outside diameter of the cylinder at about the middle and subtract 3/8" this will give you the approx. bore size. (3 3/8" o.d. = 3" bore ,2 7/8" o.d.= 2 1/2" bore ,4 3/8" o.d. =4" bore)
If this is a factory built splitter a normal combination would be ,9hp engine 16 gpm pump,and 4" or larger bore cylinder.
The larger the cylinder bore the more tonnage.
The more gpm the pump develops the faster the ram moves.
Engine horse power is only relevant to the the pumps rated gpm@max. psi usually 3000 psi.. A higher hp. engine than what is required for the pump will NOT increase tonnage.
 
So, what kind of "gauge" are you guys speaking of, and where does one obtain one?

Try a NAPA auto parts store, especially if you are in farming country. Or a heavy equipment dealer.

You need one that reads to 3,000 pounds.

Do not exceed 3,000 (I wouldn't even go over about 2,700). Blown hoses, fittings are no joke.

The gauge is installed between the ouput of the valve and input of the cylinder, adjust with the splitter stalled.

Harry K
 
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ok....turns out I have a 4" cylinder, and that my pressure is currently set to 2250.

Will I notice much of a diff, if I go to 2500 or 2700?
 
3 more tons, eh?

ok, so if I'm still not happy with that, what's my next upgrade? Do I install a 4.5" cylinder, and higher gpm pump if I desire? Is that the next move?
 
*I got dibs on the piston packing failing

I wonder if the pressure is bypassing the packing and retuning to the tank.
 
3 more tons, eh?

ok, so if I'm still not happy with that, what's my next upgrade? Do I install a 4.5" cylinder, and higher gpm pump if I desire? Is that the next move?

Here are for different bore sizes and pressure.

4" bore x 2250 psi =14.1 tons
4" bore x 2750 psi =17.2 tons
4.5" bore x 2250 psi = 17.9 tons
4.5" bore x 2750 psi =21.8 tons
5" bore x 2250 psi =22 tons
5" bore x 2750 psi =27 tons

As you can see these tonnage figures are nowhere near the advertised ratings of splitters on the market because these are actual sustained numbers rather than split second surge numbers for marketing purposes.

The 2-stage pumps used on more than 98% of the log splitters on the market are made by the Haldex group, sold under names like Barnes ,Northern, Speeco, MTE, and many more.
 
yeah I agree with the other guys, the 2 ways to increase splitting power without changing the pump and engine is more pressure and or a bigger cylinder. Some pumps like the 2 stage barnes pump can also be adjusted for the low speed kick in. this is a pressure setting like the relief found on most splitters.

I would not play with this setting however unless you know you have an engine with plenty of reserve HP at splitting RPM, doing this should decrease cycle time noticably... but if you feal the engine bogs down to much and a tune up does not help you may need to lower the kick in pressure for the low speed (cyl speed) pump.
 
turnkey, I take it that the input of the cylinder, is the end oposite of the wedge?


Yes. Another point that hasn't been mentioned. The only way (other than screwing down the bypass on the valve) to increase pressure is to go to a bigger cylinder. A bigger pump does not increase pressure, it only pumps more oil and thus decreases cycle time.

Your set up (4" cylinder, 2250 psi) should be sufficient for what you are doing. I suspect a restriction somewhere or possible a leak - by due to worn o-rings or something.

Harry K
 
Harry, my setup is new...there is no leak.

btw, where is this nut I'm going to screw down? I'm on the road right now, and don't have the splitter in front of me. is it obvious where this nut is? and do I just barely turn it, or do i screw it down several turns?

"Some pumps like the 2 stage barnes pump can also be adjusted for the low speed kick in"

Is that an adjustment on the pump, or the valve?
 

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