Increasing the power of my splitter

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Harry, my setup is new...there is no leak.

btw, where is this nut I'm going to screw down? I'm on the road right now, and don't have the splitter in front of me. is it obvious where this nut is? and do I just barely turn it, or do i screw it down several turns?

"Some pumps like the 2 stage barnes pump can also be adjusted for the low speed kick in"

Is that an adjustment on the pump, or the valve?

Usually on the valve. Mine sticks out of the end opposite the handle.

Harry K
 
no the adjustment is INTERNAL and thus its in the pump.... the max pressure of the system is typicaly on the valve (some are built right into the pump) but this is a low pressure adjustment to adjust when the "slow but powerfull" pump kicks in...
 
Pretty good advice from everyone so far, I think. Especially: use a gauge to reset your pressure relief, which is located on your valve, probably a setscrew covered by a cap nut. If you have 2300 PSI though, that should be good enough to do most spliting with a 4" cylinder. I agree not to use more than 2700. Your cylinder, valve, fittings etc are probably rated at 2500 max. Also, since the pressure is high enough, it isn't leaking past the cylinder piston, or anywhere else. You'd get a lower reading if it were. I certainly don't recommend trying to reset the bypass on your pump. It's only for the low pressure phase, so it won't affect your peak pressure, and you risk putting too much load on the pump shaft (they break easily).
One thing comes to mind that a friend did to a homemade splitter which only had a 3 1/4" cylinder: he made a sharper wedge. He actually welded an old axe head to the front of his wedge so it made a sharp, small leading edge. It split almost anything after that. Getting the crack started is the hardest part, so making that easier means you can make tougher splits with the same amount of cylinder force.
Other than that, you're limited to using higher pressure, or a larger diameter cylinder.

Good Luck,

Don the Hydraulics Guy
 
Yes a larger ram will give you more "power", but cycle time will go up.
You will need a gauge to set the press accuratily,.. .If you have an actual 2250 psi, Bump it up To 2750 Read the letters on your hyd hose,... If they are 1 wire they are prob rated at 2500 psi ,..Dont push it past 2750 psi, You can run approx 10 % over without gettin worried ,... Wear saftey gogles,If you exceed Factory settings, Dont be afariad of an explosion , But be care full and protect yourself,.. Hook up the pressure gauge ,2 the but end of the cylinder ,..You will need a tee fitting. You can do it and we are here to help,. E, J,
 
If your not going to be running into large pieces of this type of wood all the time take a chain saw and notch the top in a cross & go for it you'll have to experment with how deep to go. One other thing I found rather than putting the log splitter wedge full bore on the first split go half way to start it till you get one piece broke out then place the ronnds full wedge.. I bent my wedge ram not the cylinder on same large euc but Iron Oak replaced it free. They didnt want the old one back and am still using it .... :chainsawguy:
 
I adjusted my pressure screw, on my valve 1/4 turn. The pressure realized was a bit better. It then stalled again, in a small crotch. I turned the screw some more....and then the back of the cylinder broke. The weld, where the back of my cylinder connects to my beam, broke.

So, it's back at the shop...and I'm rebuilding to an entirely new setup:
Here's what I'm going to:

  • 5" cylinder
  • 9hp gas engine (Honda)
  • and a 5 hp elect motor...yup...both (interchangable via quick connect hydraulic hoses)
  • 28 gal. pumps on both engine and motor
  • 4 way wedge
  • Full cycle valves. Lock forward, then snap to reverse.
  • Log lifter capable of lifting 500 lbs.
 
If you have a cylinder that is bypassing ,it normally will get hot enough to fry an egg on ,with time.I have one old D4 Cat that will burn the hide off your arm after heavy use of an hour or so.

Unfortunately many lower priced splitters use less than heavy duty cycle cylinders.With a good 4" cylinder and a two stage pump that splitter should be able to shear cottonwood across grain.

I have all the stuff rounded up to build one.5" Parker cylinder,5,000 lb surge rating,steel rings.Parker double pump 3500 lb rating,12 HP electric start Briggs engine.Just a little ambition,couple days welding,cutting,machining,good to go.I've got somewhere between 12 and 15 cords on the ground and I'm a bit too long in the tooth to swing an axe at that much oak.
 
With a good 4" cylinder and a two stage pump that splitter should be able to shear cottonwood across grain.

Is that a bit of an exaggeration? I mean are you serious that a 4" cylinder should have enuf pressure to do that, and that it's all about the quality of the cylinder? I honestly don't know.
 
So, it's back at the shop...and I'm rebuilding to an entirely new setup:
Here's what I'm going to:

  • 5" cylinder
  • 9hp gas engine (Honda)
  • and a 5 hp elect motor...yup...both (interchangable via quick connect hydraulic hoses)
  • 28 gal. pumps on both engine and motor
  • 4 way wedge
  • Full cycle valves. Lock forward, then snap to reverse.
  • Log lifter capable of lifting 500 lbs.

28 gpm 2-stage pump needs a 16 hp gas motor.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2007072509211499&item=9-4897&catname=hydraulic
 
if your splitter is new... why are you doing this?

I'd be taking splitter back to builder!

crowbait; said:
Harry, my setup is new...there is no leak.

btw, where is this nut I'm going to screw down? I'm on the road right now, and don't have the splitter in front of me. is it obvious where this nut is? and do I just barely turn it, or do i screw it down several turns?

"Some pumps like the 2 stage barnes pump can also be adjusted for the low speed kick in"

Is that an adjustment on the pump, or the valve?
 
Thanks Ray. If I have a smaller motor/engine...what will happen? Will the 2nd stage never kick in? Will the engine die while still in stage 1?
 
Is that a bit of an exaggeration? I mean are you serious that a 4" cylinder should have enuf pressure to do that, and that it's all about the quality of the cylinder? I honestly don't know.
No,not really.A two stage pump is really just two pumps connected in parrellel on the fast stage,using the discharge of both to move the cylinder.At a preset pressure,usually 6 to 800 pounds the larger of the two stages bypasses to the tank leaving the smaller volume pump to continue to raise the pressure to whatever the relief valve is set at.

Of course how much actual force could be generated is dependent on the final pressure which could vary widely.Yes,in regards to capablities of shearing cross grain.I've seen them shear 12" of red oak,sideways,rarely though.

To the chagrin of many new owners of commercial splitters most are not made up from the heaviest of components.More times than not the cylinders are not really heavy duty,nor are the pumps,frame work,any thing.The old adage holds true,you get what you pay for.
 
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if you read through a few of splitter threads. seldom you do see comments that splitter is not powerful enough.

for example lowest rated splitter from speeco with 4in x 24in 6.5hp briggs, two stage 11gpm puts out more than enough power to split most logs. a few comments about needing several trys for 3ft+ logs. http://www.speeco.com/asp/display.asp?view=top&category=Log+Splitters

my 35 ton speeco has a 6in ram. much rather have a 5in ram for faster cycle times.
yes I can cut cross grain for most logs. but that's pretty much a useless exercise.
 
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Well my elec/gas splitter should be done, by this next weekend.
I'll then see what's gonna happen. With a 5" ram, it seems that it should stall on nothing...assuming the engine/motor is large enuf. True?
 
Redneck....I made a mistake...my pumps aren't 28gpm, they are 22gpm.
is that better?

Since you said 28gpm will be slow, are you suggesting my 22gpm will be molasses?
 
The 28 gpm pump will have a 8 second cycle time with 24" stroke. The 22 gpm pump will have a 10 second cycle time with the same stroke. Both pumps require a minimum hp. to attain these times. 14 hp. for the 28, 11 hp. for the 22.
 
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