The 18.5 hp. should easily handle a 28 gpm 2-stage pump. Use 3/4" hoses on the high pressure side.
Increasing the power of my splitter
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Well, have a 28 pump on order, figure to move all the pressure lines to
3/4 or better, haven't heard from the hydraulic shop on the ram repair yet.
I was looking at my tank, probably an 8 gallon native with the side cut
out and welded against the I beam to increase the capacity some,
that I beam must be a doozey of a heat sink all by itself. I'd estimate
the total to be about 10-11 gallons total for the tank.
The return fitting is a 3/4 and has a spin on filter
Should I go with 2x spin on filters and a dual return? the suction side
is a 7/8 and will be going up to a minimum 1" or I think I have some
1 1/4 hydraulic flex line.
I do have the option of going with a second tank down under the engine,
good cool spot down low, I could easily squeeze in a 9x18x24 which would
give about another 15-16 gallons, I can put it almost right under the other
tank and use a larger drain line to go from the original tank down into the bottom tank then have the pump draw out of the lower tank, this would
shorten the suction line from 3' down to about 1'
I suppose another option is to remove the existing tank and just use 1 much
larger one.
-Jason trollin for ideas
3/4 or better, haven't heard from the hydraulic shop on the ram repair yet.
I was looking at my tank, probably an 8 gallon native with the side cut
out and welded against the I beam to increase the capacity some,
that I beam must be a doozey of a heat sink all by itself. I'd estimate
the total to be about 10-11 gallons total for the tank.
The return fitting is a 3/4 and has a spin on filter
Should I go with 2x spin on filters and a dual return? the suction side
is a 7/8 and will be going up to a minimum 1" or I think I have some
1 1/4 hydraulic flex line.
I do have the option of going with a second tank down under the engine,
good cool spot down low, I could easily squeeze in a 9x18x24 which would
give about another 15-16 gallons, I can put it almost right under the other
tank and use a larger drain line to go from the original tank down into the bottom tank then have the pump draw out of the lower tank, this would
shorten the suction line from 3' down to about 1'
I suppose another option is to remove the existing tank and just use 1 much
larger one.
-Jason trollin for ideas
Going to fab a tank from aluminum, should be easy, just got
a call from the hydraulic shop, to overhaul the ram is going
to cost about $250, but its a 5x48 or such, guess its an older
but high quality piece, Will put up some pictures when things
get moving along.
a call from the hydraulic shop, to overhaul the ram is going
to cost about $250, but its a 5x48 or such, guess its an older
but high quality piece, Will put up some pictures when things
get moving along.
When you mount the new tank, it should be positioned so that there is no possible way for the pump to suck air. It only takes a few revs running dry to destroy one of those pumps. Best position is higher than the pump.
Harry K
Thanks for the info, as it sits, I think the bottom of the tank will
be about 2 inches below the pump but the fluid level will be
14 inches above the pump. I'm trying to recall my tank size,
its around 32x11x16, Aluminum sheet welded on a 1x1 angle
frame. If I can't find a commercial bung that suits me, I'll
just make my own. My friend who's good at fabricating
stuff for Baja says the frame will make it stronger but really
isn't needed.
-Jason
be about 2 inches below the pump but the fluid level will be
14 inches above the pump. I'm trying to recall my tank size,
its around 32x11x16, Aluminum sheet welded on a 1x1 angle
frame. If I can't find a commercial bung that suits me, I'll
just make my own. My friend who's good at fabricating
stuff for Baja says the frame will make it stronger but really
isn't needed.
-Jason
Need a suggestion, just got the cyl back from the rebuilder, had
it freshened up and replace the front packing.
Remove the protection valves and the holes that go from the
4 bolt flanges into the piston themselves are only 3/8.
It doesn't seem like it would be hard to open them up to 1/2-
5/8, One port goes straight down into a hardline that goes
forward to front of the cyl, and the other goes down, 3/8 hole
into a cross drilled hole into the back of the cyl, it missed the
cross drilled hole by quite a bit too. The web where the
holes are drilled are easily 1" thick
Wall thickness of 1/4 inch should be fine, hardline is pretty
thin but more uniform and the rest of the forging is massive.
pictures available if anyone wants them posted.
it freshened up and replace the front packing.
Remove the protection valves and the holes that go from the
4 bolt flanges into the piston themselves are only 3/8.
It doesn't seem like it would be hard to open them up to 1/2-
5/8, One port goes straight down into a hardline that goes
forward to front of the cyl, and the other goes down, 3/8 hole
into a cross drilled hole into the back of the cyl, it missed the
cross drilled hole by quite a bit too. The web where the
holes are drilled are easily 1" thick
Wall thickness of 1/4 inch should be fine, hardline is pretty
thin but more uniform and the rest of the forging is massive.
pictures available if anyone wants them posted.
Well, nearing the end of the path, just a few more tweaks!!! woo!
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=80145
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=80145
AKKAMAAN
ArboristSite Guru
make sure your wedge is VERY sharp, and try that before changing cylinder
Evening, gents! I feel the time has come to put a pressure relief valve on my home made splitter. Whenever some daydreaming person runs the piston all the way out or all the way in, either the engine shuts down, or a hose blows, dependent largely on engine speed. I feel bad when either thing happens. So, I wonder where to put it. It would install pretty easy on the inlet of the valve. My biggest dilimna is what make and model to get. I am using a dynex-rivett PF2008-2191 and I cannot find out what kind of pressure it is capable of. I found a chart that says it's a 6-piston pump and that each piston moves 1 GPM at 1800 RPM. I probably spin mine a little faster than that-maybe 2400. I certainly dont rev it to 3600. The point is, I am looking at a prince valve on which the max pressure is 2500. What is the chance that I am making more pressure than that? Has anyone heard of a control valve that doesn't have a relief valve? Because I cant find one on mine. Am I the only one without a gauge on the pressure hose?
I sure didn't mean to stick this on an old post! Sorry!
Is there any way I can make this into a new thread now that I submitted it as a response?
sawinredneck
Addicted to ArboristSite
No, you could start a new thread asking the same question, but you will get a reply here.
If it were me, I would put it on the inlet line to the control valve and adjust it accordingly. But thats me.
If it were me, I would put it on the inlet line to the control valve and adjust it accordingly. But thats me.
AKKAMAAN
ArboristSite Guru
A pressure relief valve is a "PUMP PROTECTION" valve and have to be installed after the pump but before anything else (operation valve). Inlet to control valve is great.
Your Dynex pump is rated for 5000psi constant pressure and 6000psi intermittent. Thats a heck of a pump you have. No cheap stuff. At 1800rpm it shoots 5.8 gpm. Maximum speed is 2400rpm, which will give you about 7.5 gpm.
http://www.dynexhydraulics.com/cbfix.htm
I would be very cautius about pressure setting on your relief valve. Your weakest point in system is what set your pressure. that could possibly be your control valve, or the cylinder. Hoses could be upgraded....
Components for logsplitters are usually cheap, and rarely rated over 3000psi.
DON'T set pressure over 3000psi. Do some research about your control valve and cylinder, I can help if you post some data.
If you plan to change control valve I strongly recommend this Prince valve.
http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/products/valves/catalog/ValvesLsRd25.pdf
MODEL LSR-3060 RAPID EXTEND LOG SPLITTER VALVE, it's rated 3000psi and 4gpm inlet flow. But it's worth a try, if you get excessive heat, slow down pump to 1500rpm. You'll still having a blast with that valve.
It has a 4th position for a fast speed. It's a REGENERATIVE function. Work much better than a two stage pump. Give me your cylinder dimensions, like bore diam, rod diam and stroke, and I'll calculate the speeds you can expect.
Sounds like a pretty serious valve that might solve my problems. Not sure I understand the regenerative thing though. And it seems like the 4 GPM inlet rating might be a restriction. Sure wish I knew how to post pictures of the valve I am currently using. Thanks for the link, I may indeed get that valve.
AKKAMAAN
ArboristSite Guru
The regenerative valve take the oil from the rodside and send it back to the cap side along with the pump flow. The rod cross area will be the net extract area. So the fast speed and force will be like a cylinder with a bore like the piston rod. Retract will be just normal.
example:
a 5" bore with a 2" rod will 5*5 divided with 2*2, 25/4, 6.25 times faster on fast speed, but only 1/6.25 of the force.
These numbers are nominal and don't concider delta p (pressure) losses
If you want to get better performance, you can get a separate REGENERATIVE valve, that can handle higher flows with out losses. That one is automatic, pressure sensitive, and installs between the operational valve and the cylinder, just use your old valve. read more on this pdf
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Yeah, relief valve is a great idea and really a must. Both valves I've picked up from NorthernTool have had built in relief valves set at around 2000 psi
A control valve with the relief built in that fits your current configuration would be the least expensive option, the price on getting hoses has gone way up over the past couple years.
As to posting pictures, you can put up digital pictures on photobucket or flickr or any number of sites then just use the link button at the top of the winder here.
-Jason
A control valve with the relief built in that fits your current configuration would be the least expensive option, the price on getting hoses has gone way up over the past couple years.
As to posting pictures, you can put up digital pictures on photobucket or flickr or any number of sites then just use the link button at the top of the winder here.
-Jason
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CylinderService
ArboristSite Operative
There are a few valves out there without reliefs. If you have a relief it would be on the inlet side usually, and obvious.
We have separate reliefs for up to 3000 PSI, at ordinary prices. Higher pressures usually cost a lot more. Your pump could go well over 3000 if you needed it, but of course the pump doesn't have a relief either. But if you're getting a new valve, you'll get a relief at the same time.
The LSR regen valve recommended would be great for you if you can reduce the flow a little (our part # is 20-3060 and we have them in stock). It really doesn't like more than 4 GPM incoming - the regen flow gets up to 25 GPM which is as much as the valve porting can handle. It has a relief in it and can handle 3000 PSI, but I think that's a little high for every day. I recommend 2500.
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We have separate reliefs for up to 3000 PSI, at ordinary prices. Higher pressures usually cost a lot more. Your pump could go well over 3000 if you needed it, but of course the pump doesn't have a relief either. But if you're getting a new valve, you'll get a relief at the same time.
The LSR regen valve recommended would be great for you if you can reduce the flow a little (our part # is 20-3060 and we have them in stock). It really doesn't like more than 4 GPM incoming - the regen flow gets up to 25 GPM which is as much as the valve porting can handle. It has a relief in it and can handle 3000 PSI, but I think that's a little high for every day. I recommend 2500.
[email protected]
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