Inefficient Bar/Chain Oil Design?

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MAWoodsman

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On the bars that oil the chain though the top adjuster hole. Im curious if anyone here knows if there is a reason for that design. In looking at saws with that design, it appears that a majority of the bar oil simply runs out though that hole, down the side of the bar and out the bottom of the saw. While some does get into the bar/chain, im willing to bet more than half is simply running right out of the bottom of the saw.
 
My 4910 is an example of this. The bar does have an oil hole. But the adjust hole also oils the bar.
 
Maybe there is a way the oil is going out the clutch cover side. Does it have captive bar nuts? I use stick type epoxy it is a cylinder you cut off some knead it and press into where you want. It can be worked with a knife quite easy after it is mostly set up. Something like a thin trimmer line can be put in and pulled out when cured or almost cured. Or you can just fill the unused adjuster hole and drill another only oil hole smaller and higher. With your stock bar on a 4910 no drilling necessary. I do not think the design is inherently defective. The small mount Stihl 3005 or 074 in Oregon the unused adjuster hole also connects to the bar channel as does the dedicated oil hole. My battery Husky pole saw which is sort of left handed has the oil pass through the unused adjuster hole, gets moved to a higher passage to access the oiler hole for the bar.

But the adjust hole also oils the bar. edit to provides an escape passage
 
On the bars that oil the chain though the top adjuster hole. Im curious if anyone here knows if there is a reason for that design. In looking at saws with that design, it appears that a majority of the bar oil simply runs out though that hole, down the side of the bar and out the bottom of the saw. While some does get into the bar/chain, im willing to bet more than half is simply running right out of the bottom of the saw.

I like the oil through the top adjuster hole design on my poulan saws . The quarter inch wide by fifty thousands deep channel supply plenty of oil for the chain .
There is even a well built in some of the bars to hold a small amount of bar oil .
If I were you I put a plug in my clutch cover to not let the oil flow through and out the cover .
 
The oil you want at the base of the drive links is escaping. Path of escape not path of desired, was supposed to be humorous. Wood shavings clogging in or at the bar would seem to make oil come out along the sides of the bar, or debris making the contact surfaces more distant.
 
I slapped a small piece of metal tape over the clutch cover side top adjuster hole on the bar. This allows the oil to still enter from the oil channel, but it wont drain right back out and down the bar. With a semi good seal between the bar and the metal inner guide plate, the oil should (in theory) get pushed up into the chain channel of the bar through the small opening in the top of the adjuster hole. Instead of just leaking out all over the place. Ill drag a piece of cardboard out to test it out. If it works, we should be able to adjust our oilers way down, as the only oil being supplied is going directly into the bar.

Wouldnt it be something if they added a small nipple on bars that you could attach a small tube to that came directly from the oil pump?

Thoughts?
 
I slapped a small piece of metal tape over the clutch cover side top adjuster hole on the bar. This allows the oil to still enter from the oil channel, but it wont drain right back out and down the bar. With a semi good seal between the bar and the metal inner guide plate, the oil should (in theory) get pushed up into the chain channel of the bar through the small opening in the top of the adjuster hole. Instead of just leaking out all over the place. Ill drag a piece of cardboard out to test it out. If it works, we should be able to adjust our oilers way down, as the only oil being supplied is going directly into the bar.

Wouldnt it be something if they added a small nipple on bars that you could attach a small tube to that came directly from the oil pump?

Thoughts?

What saw are you running ?
 
I slapped a small piece of metal tape over the clutch cover side top adjuster hole on the bar. This allows the oil to still enter from the oil channel, but it wont drain right back out and down the bar. With a semi good seal between the bar and the metal inner guide plate, the oil should (in theory) get pushed up into the chain channel of the bar through the small opening in the top of the adjuster hole. Instead of just leaking out all over the place. Ill drag a piece of cardboard out to test it out. If it works, we should be able to adjust our oilers way down, as the only oil being supplied is going directly into the bar.

Wouldnt it be something if they added a small nipple on bars that you could attach a small tube to that came directly from the oil pump?

Thoughts?

Look at the oil delivery on a poulan 2000 .
 
Are you missing the outer bar plate for the clutch cover?
With a flat plate on the clutch cover up against the upper adjuster/oil hole there's no where for the bar oil to leak out.
It's not as tight of a deal as I thought. The metal tape is working great
 
Put the metal tape on the clutch cover so you dont have to mess with it every time you take the bar off.
Or make a shim/seal out of a pop/beer can for it and glue it to the clutch cover.

The poulans, homelites and small huskys with this style oil hole all have a flat metal plate on the clutch cover that presses on the bar so the oil goes where it's suppose to.
 
People barely can put chain oil in a saw-asking them to attach an oil line to a fitting on bar sounds good in theory but your asking to much-lol
 
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