Inspecting engine through exhaust port

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Jwaldner

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I will admit I'm an amateur when it comes to tuning. I have a tach and use it, and also am fairly sure what I'm listening to as far as 4 stroking. I have saws that predate my current knowledge so I figured I'd pull the muffler and have a look. All looks well. Gas is ethanol free 91 octane mixed 50:1 with aimsoil saber.

Pp5020. Tuned 300 rpm under max rpm(12700) tuning by ear ends up around here as well. When I take muffler off I see a layer of oil everywhere. Everything looks great. Use it alot to see how long it will last cause I didn't pay much for it.

Dolmar 5105 muffler is a pain to take off so I dont bother. Never touched tuning its 200 rpm under max and runs superb.

Dolmar 6100. Used it hard last weekend cutting stumps. Long bar minutes at a time full throddle. Let it idle 5 to 10 seconds after last cut. Pulled muffler hours later, slowly pulled engine over and I see a layer of visible blue oil everywhere. Looks brand new inside.

Shindaiwa 446s. Love this saw, light powerful starts easy. But this one gets me. I rebuilt it with a new piston after it scored origional due to air leak. Air leak was fixed(gas line) max rpm according to manual is 13500. My ear agrees. I ran it for a bunch of tanks at 12800. Recently bumped it up to 13200. Nervous to go heigher. I pulled muffler twice now, once at each rpm setting and while the engine looks great I see no oil film. Of course there is a thin something there but nothing like the other saws. If I raise the piston on the others and wait 15 seconds I can see the blue layer of excess come down from the rings. This one is almost dry! Nothings scored everything fine but there is no excess lube to be found not even a bit.

This engine is not stratified like the 5020 and 6100. If that could make a difference. I'd hate to blow it up.
 
Interesting post. I wish I could make an intelligent comment but I know zip about that saw and I'm not sure weather the lack or presence of fuel mix seen through the exhaust port is an indication of anything worth worrying about. I wonder if there's more there than you realize and it's just hard to see on that new piston.. looking forward to some other comments on this, but I tune the high speed mixture while cutting and if it feels and sounds right and I know my fuel is mixed right, I would run it and not worry about it.
 
im sure alot of us have seen that youtube vid where they take a stihl pro saw and 4 different pre-mix gases and run them, pulling the cylinder and looking at build up and how much oil is left in the bottom end. If i remember correctly they have a new piston and cylinder for each premix. sort of doing something similar here just looking at overall condition and notice a very dry look in the 446.
 
im sure alot of us have seen that youtube vid where they take a stihl pro saw and 4 different pre-mix gases and run them, pulling the cylinder and looking at build up and how much oil is left in the bottom end. If i remember correctly they have a new piston and cylinder for each premix. sort of doing something similar here just looking at overall condition and notice a very dry look in the 446.
I did not see that video. I will look for it next time I get a chance, but what did they think was the significance of the dry 446? Any conclusions?
 
im sure alot of us have seen that youtube vid where they take a stihl pro saw and 4 different pre-mix gases and run them, pulling the cylinder and looking at build up and how much oil is left in the bottom end. If i remember correctly they have a new piston and cylinder for each premix. sort of doing something similar here just looking at overall condition and notice a very dry look in the 446.
I'd be keen to watch that if you can tell me where to find it.
 
I will admit I'm an amateur when it comes to tuning. I have a tach and use it, and also am fairly sure what I'm listening to as far as 4 stroking. I have saws that predate my current knowledge so I figured I'd pull the muffler and have a look. All looks well. Gas is ethanol free 91 octane mixed 50:1 with aimsoil saber.

Pp5020. Tuned 300 rpm under max rpm(12700) tuning by ear ends up around here as well. When I take muffler off I see a layer of oil everywhere. Everything looks great. Use it alot to see how long it will last cause I didn't pay much for it.

Dolmar 5105 muffler is a pain to take off so I dont bother. Never touched tuning its 200 rpm under max and runs superb.

Dolmar 6100. Used it hard last weekend cutting stumps. Long bar minutes at a time full throddle. Let it idle 5 to 10 seconds after last cut. Pulled muffler hours later, slowly pulled engine over and I see a layer of visible blue oil everywhere. Looks brand new inside.

Shindaiwa 446s. Love this saw, light powerful starts easy. But this one gets me. I rebuilt it with a new piston after it scored origional due to air leak. Air leak was fixed(gas line) max rpm according to manual is 13500. My ear agrees. I ran it for a bunch of tanks at 12800. Recently bumped it up to 13200. Nervous to go heigher. I pulled muffler twice now, once at each rpm setting and while the engine looks great I see no oil film. Of course there is a thin something there but nothing like the other saws. If I raise the piston on the others and wait 15 seconds I can see the blue layer of excess come down from the rings. This one is almost dry! Nothings scored everything fine but there is no excess lube to be found not even a bit.

This engine is not stratified like the 5020 and 6100. If that could make a difference. I'd hate to blow it up.
New rings allowing less mix to pass than your other saws? Must be a few cycles between switching it off and piston stopping.
Just a thought.

Ha just realised this was an old one
 

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