tbow388
Off The Air BEEEEEEEEP
Side of house pic.
![Resampled.jpg](https://proxy.imagearchive.com/9d7/9d7bdea668860d92481023168122170e.jpg)
Nosmo
I have a low pitch at this point of the roof. The flashing I got in the kit is for a low pitch.
I was going to go under the roofing at top and above it down bottom. I had heard that you seal / tar the sides and top but not the bottom so any moisture can come out. Is that a correct way of thinking?
Drill your hole.. THEN go in your attic to find your roof truss near your hole so you can be sure of where your stove will go if you want a strait run for your stack..
Hello,
I don't know what kind of insulation you have in the ceiling......blown-in or roll . Yes, my ceiling was sloped when I put in my chimney in the woodshop..........but you said you got the kit for a regular ceiling. So when that double walled pipe goes through your ceiling , what keeps the insulation from being around the pipe as it continues up and through your roof ? I felt good about mine being in the steel box just in case it would ever come apart and shoot flames out the joint !!!!! Just interested in how your's works !!!!!
Henry and Wanda
First make sure you get all your proper clearances per manufacturer specs, then seal it like crazy on the roof. I always preferred a good grade of silicone or geo cell caulking under and on top of the flashing. A low pitch roof is more vulnerable for water blowing and working its way back under flashing.
Hey that fellow who used the .22 to line up the ceiling with the roof had a brilliant idea.
Nosmo
I understand your question so here is my opinion. Up at the top of the flashing I'd use no tar where it goes underneath the shingles above it. On the sides - yes I'd run a bead of tar down each side and nails too. I'd say it is a toss up on the bottom going across whether to run tar or not. I did on mine as well as nails to hold it down.
You may get some other opinions in this thread. Ask around in your hometown too.
Nosmo
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