Installing wood stove this weekend. Need tips

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Side of house pic.

Resampled.jpg
 
Nosmo

I have a low pitch at this point of the roof. The flashing I got in the kit is for a low pitch.

I was going to go under the roofing at top and above it down bottom. I had heard that you seal / tar the sides and top but not the bottom so any moisture can come out. Is that a correct way of thinking?

I understand your question so here is my opinion. Up at the top of the flashing I'd use no tar where it goes underneath the shingles above it. On the sides - yes I'd run a bead of tar down each side and nails too. I'd say it is a toss up on the bottom going across whether to run tar or not. I did on mine as well as nails to hold it down.

You may get some other opinions in this thread. Ask around in your hometown too.

Nosmo
 
Your Low Pitch Roof

I'm still thinking about your outside chimney installation and the low pitch roof in your enclosed photo.

The more I think about it I beginning to think it would be a good idea to use a bead of tar on that upper section where it is going to slide under (THE ROLL ROOFing). I was thinking at first of a shingled roof with water channels.

With that low of a pitch I believe I'd want tar sealing the under side edges all the way around. If no moisture gets in - then none will have to find a way out.

But let's get some more opinions hopefully.

Hey that fellow who used the .22 to line up the ceiling with the roof had a brilliant idea.

Nosmo
 
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First make sure you get all your proper clearances per manufacturer specs, then seal it like crazy on the roof. I always preferred a good grade of silicone or geo cell caulking under and on top of the flashing. A low pitch roof is more vulnerable for water blowing and working its way back under flashing.
 
Drill your hole.. THEN go in your attic to find your roof truss near your hole so you can be sure of where your stove will go if you want a strait run for your stack..

Roof trusses & floor trusses can be cut...as long as they are properly reinforced. My floor trusses are on 16" centers so I removed a section of one, screwed braces on each side with no ill effect. Yes it's easier to work around them, but sometimes it is just not possible.
 
Hello,
I don't know what kind of insulation you have in the ceiling......blown-in or roll . Yes, my ceiling was sloped when I put in my chimney in the woodshop..........but you said you got the kit for a regular ceiling. So when that double walled pipe goes through your ceiling , what keeps the insulation from being around the pipe as it continues up and through your roof ? I felt good about mine being in the steel box just in case it would ever come apart and shoot flames out the joint !!!!! Just interested in how your's works !!!!!



Henry and Wanda
 
Silicone vs. Tar

I believe I'd go ahead and use silicone instead of tar. Get a good grade of pure silicone - not that latex mixed with silicone stuff. Silicone used on top of those nails will last much longer than a dab of tar.

If tar is not covered with something (like a shingle) it will begin to crack and weather as time goes on.

Nosmo
 
Hello,
I don't know what kind of insulation you have in the ceiling......blown-in or roll . Yes, my ceiling was sloped when I put in my chimney in the woodshop..........but you said you got the kit for a regular ceiling. So when that double walled pipe goes through your ceiling , what keeps the insulation from being around the pipe as it continues up and through your roof ? I felt good about mine being in the steel box just in case it would ever come apart and shoot flames out the joint !!!!! Just interested in how your's works !!!!!



Henry and Wanda

The regular ceiling kit has a "attic Insulation SHield" Looks like the nose of a plane. Also double walled.
 
First make sure you get all your proper clearances per manufacturer specs, then seal it like crazy on the roof. I always preferred a good grade of silicone or geo cell caulking under and on top of the flashing. A low pitch roof is more vulnerable for water blowing and working its way back under flashing.

Yukon, I have 2.5 to 3 inches of clearance around all of the double wall pipe.
 
A bit bored

I was a bit bored last night so I thought I would start installing some of it.

I cut a pretty hole in the ceiling.

hole.jpg


Things went so well with the hole that I started adding stuff to the hole. :rock:

After days of mulling over this, reading endless installation things and reading these posts and going over the install over and over and over again I just kept on going and ended up with this.

stove.jpg


Have a few small minor things to finish today.
 
Hey that fellow who used the .22 to line up the ceiling with the roof had a brilliant idea.

Nosmo

I would have to use something a bit more powerfull. My ceiling and roof go like this from the bottom up.

(ceiling) 12" square ceiling tiles, some sort of old masonite flower covered material, 1" beaded ceiling, insulation, attic space. (roof now) actual 1" - 1x4 tongue and groove, tar paper, old roll roofing, layer of tar (rolled on) commercial grade roll roofing.

I think I would at least need a 7.62x39:laugh::laugh:
 
I understand your question so here is my opinion. Up at the top of the flashing I'd use no tar where it goes underneath the shingles above it. On the sides - yes I'd run a bead of tar down each side and nails too. I'd say it is a toss up on the bottom going across whether to run tar or not. I did on mine as well as nails to hold it down.

You may get some other opinions in this thread. Ask around in your hometown too.

Nosmo

I ended up cutting a slit the exact size of the flashing. Added a row of tar down each side of flashing. Used 4 nails each side. Tarred from roof to over flashing.

The roofing being about 1/2 thick there was a little dip up at top so I sealed the top with tar also. I plan on sealing it several more times.
 

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