Introducing Brand New Wood Furnace to Market - The Drolet Tundra!
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brenndatomu
Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
Sounds about right for that unit (IMO) Did you get anything else sorted out yet, or everything still runnin bout the same?
spadjen
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spadjen
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just getting cold here again. around 10-15 at night. I think i am going to be using more wood then i should. I am starting to look at static pressure of the duct system. not sure if i need to take a reading at the cold air and after the 2 8" rounds feed into the hot air plenum. The reading i am getting is very low and cant be rite. I just did a quick reading and will look into it more when i get a chance.
Thanks for the number, spoke to them. They answered my question except the couple I forgot to ask so maybe some one here has the answers. 1st if I run a cold return from outside my house would it be to cold since it is well below zero or in single digits? Would it cause the firebox to be to cold. 2- when running ducts Thur the wall does it get to hot or do you need a thimble or double wall pipe? Thanks.
spadjen
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you need 2" clearance for duct work to combustibles and then changes 1" clearance something like 10' from the furnace. You dont want to take all your air from outside. you will waste wood from cooling your firebox. Chimney will not be as hot and cause problems. and take longer to heat your house. I was pulling basement air which was around 40-50 degrees and getting 110-125 at my floor vents. now i am pulling air from the living area and getting 145-165. Think of it this way. if your warming air that is 70 it is going to take less energy and give you more of a rise then if you warm air that is 40. Also, by pulling your air supply from the living area you have a way to get rid of your coldest air in the house. If you want fresh air you can try putting in a small 4" dry duct and feed that into your cold air plenum (if you have one) and put a damper on it so you can adjust it or shut it off when it gets real cold.
Thanks for the information. My chimney is made out of single wall 6 inch pipe then 6 inch black double wall then as it goes though the attic and roof it is insulated super vent pipe. Will this be good enough for the tundra? It is about 25 feet tall. How do I measure the draft? Can Ibuy a tool to check it or are they expensive? Thanks. I m new to all this tech talk so any information is aappreciated.
spadjen
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You might get too much draft. Worth a check. Can get a manomeater on amazon pretty reasonable. Make sure it measures inches of water . How many feet of that chimney is single and double wall.
spadjen
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Anyone check there static pressure of there hot air duct work. Manual recomends 0'2 which i am asuming it is .2 wc. Reading i am getting is .05 which is wAy low. So how does this negatively the woodstove? Changing fan speeds dose not chang readings much. Another note. This is hooked up to duct work all by its self. Not as an add on furnace. Have a cold air plenum with a 16x20 filter that is pulling from a cold air return in the living area.
I m guessing that there is about 8 ft beforethe single and double wall goes in the supervent. Right now I m heating with an old energy mate furnace. It is forced air and has a draft motor on the front. I need to install a Manuel draft regulator in the chimney pipe. I was looking at one of those barometric draft put some say not to us them get the Manuel style for wood. Does the tundra need the barometric one or is a Manuel good enough. Thanks for information on on the meter.
Your not to use a inline flue damper
The only one is maybe a barometric draft if its too strong . The tundra is completely different compared to old style furnaces like your current smoke dragon in that it will require a good natural draft to operate correctly and will close down the air so tight that the fire will actually snuff right out if its not good and hot the flue itself never gets very hot even with a roaring fire going. .it extracts about every btu available out if the wood . My flue isn't much warmer than the ducting . It's incredibly efficient but you must have good seasoned firewood to realize the benefit also it should be noted that it doesn't throw the intense heat like probably what your used too it makes up for that in the duration of the burn time its alot happier at. 70 then pushing it hard to try to keep house at 75 like your probably used to. .this unit will make you learn to burn wood all over again its very different
The only one is maybe a barometric draft if its too strong . The tundra is completely different compared to old style furnaces like your current smoke dragon in that it will require a good natural draft to operate correctly and will close down the air so tight that the fire will actually snuff right out if its not good and hot the flue itself never gets very hot even with a roaring fire going. .it extracts about every btu available out if the wood . My flue isn't much warmer than the ducting . It's incredibly efficient but you must have good seasoned firewood to realize the benefit also it should be noted that it doesn't throw the intense heat like probably what your used too it makes up for that in the duration of the burn time its alot happier at. 70 then pushing it hard to try to keep house at 75 like your probably used to. .this unit will make you learn to burn wood all over again its very different
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laynes69
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Good dry wood is key for these furnace's. The reason why a manual damper isn't to be used is the automatic draft. Our furnace has a different air jacket than the tundra, but the same firebox, and it's kept our house at 71 (thermostat set at 72) after 9.5 hours in the mid teens, overnight. When I wake up, the front of the coalbed is ash and there's a good coal bed in the back. It burns from the front to back, and like Flotek says, they are very efficient. Installation shouldn't be an issue, the tundra's are meant for a more user friendly install. With the automatic draft control, performance will vary based on heat load, which varies from home to home.
brenndatomu
Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
Perfect
I currently have a Vogelzang Norseman 2500 in the basement of my 2 year old 1700 sq/ft ranch (plus unfinished basement). I have 27' of straight vertical pipe (4' double black + 23' supervent double stainless) through a 1st floor closet then open attic to roof. I'm looking to upgrade to a Drolet Tundra, however I have a question on the dimensions listed on p.41 and 42 here http://www.drolet.ca/upload/documents/manuels/45656A_10-06-2013.pdf
My current setup uses twin wall black pipe rated for 6" clearance to combustibles, I'm right at 6". How can the manual state 18" clearance not knowing the type of pipe? What are my options?
My current setup uses twin wall black pipe rated for 6" clearance to combustibles, I'm right at 6". How can the manual state 18" clearance not knowing the type of pipe? What are my options?
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