Introducing Brand New Wood Furnace to Market - The Drolet Tundra!

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Sooo... my old daka just developed a crack in the firebox and is sending traces up smoke through the ductwork. I'm scrambling to find a new wood furnace, and have had my heart set on a Tundra for awhile. Has anyone found out who has them in stock, in central MN?? Menards, Lowes, Home Depot, etc etc are all special online order only, and take like 5-10 days. In the meantime, house is cooling rapidly, -10 degrees outside....

I'd also like to take a looksee my ownself to see if theres not a welded seam b/t the ash tray and the air plenum.
 
ok. so this may be information known by some but being new to an indoor wood furnace i was unaware of this and never gave it 2nd thought. c/o detectors going off in house and could not get them to reset. called the Fire Department out to check with there meter. thought i was getting combustion air thorough open damper or that my co detectors were getting old. They found fluctuating c/o coming directly out of the floor registers. readings of 200-30. thinking there was a crack in the firebox or heat ex-changer they condemned my wood furnace and shut it down. When emptying the firebox we pulled the ash box and saw that they were still hot from the day before. And i meen hot. They left and i got to calling but go nowhere since it was after hours. so sitting in a cold house thinking out what the f*** was going on i thought of the basic stupid design of a ash box in the air plenum. Then i had the though....what if they did not seal the ash box from the air plenum. no....dont think they would do that. well i checked and sure enough they are connected. pull your ash box and look up underneath and you will see a gap all the way around. put a light where the blower is in the back and you will see it in your ash box. when your blower turns on pull your ash box and see all your ashes blowing everywhere. I dont have any idea why they would do this. This would also explain why the ashes were still hot....they are being forced combustion air. This may be common knowledge to some but i say it is still the stupidest thing i have seen in awhile. the directions say to regularly empty ash pan and it should read dont operate with ashes in pan. Easy fix to c/o is to empty your ashes right away. but then there is still the problem of ash dust now being circulated around your duct work and into your house. WTF

I've known about this for some time but promised to keep quiet about it in hopes of a resolution. Was promised a new furnace once a fix was in place but a month later they went back on their word and changed it to giving me $300 bucks or I could take it back to where I got it from and get a full refund.

I went out and got a tube of the JB weld clay and tried to patch it up myself but it's just wide open inside.

I've come to realize it's the entire mindset of the company. They don't invest into things like development, design, web presence, customer support, etc because they think of it as a waste of money. They bought PSG to get the great design of the Caddy line. They then thought because they were a big manufacture of existing furnaces that they could cut corners and throw together a new furnace much cheaper than the Caddy and sell it in bulk. They kept the firebox design and then put everything around it as cheap as they possibly could and according to the customer service rep I spoke with "went too far".

The other reason, if someone hasn't figured it out yet as I haven't read all the post in this thread yet, is that the blower doesn't even seal up to the back of the furnace. They just cut a hole and stuck the blower into it. Most of the air simply escapes out the back. I was told that they were getting an adaptor made so the blower would seal.

I've simply abandoned using the ash pan and have sealed it up with foil tape. I purchased an ash vac and simply vac out the ashes as I go.

I've tried taping up the furnace as much as possible but simply can't get any static pressure to build up. Even the sides of the furnace are simply rolled and not welded and leak air like a sieve.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do at this point with the furnace but I will be writing a detailed blog about it and my experiences with support. I will also perform SEO to maximize the visibility when people search for the furnace. The company doesn't do any SEO or online marketing itself so it will be easy to outrank the factory website and the major retailers. If you would like to contribute and vent your frustrations I can promise you that you will be heard. PM me and I'll give you my email and you can send me your "review".

For those considering the furnace you should wait to see if they fix the design flaws or simply purchase something else. I would love to be able to recommend a Caddy but they refused to sell me one and told me I had to buy one from a dealer but there is no dealer within 3 hours of me.
 
If it's defective why would you start a fire back in the unit? I just looked under mine, with a fire in the furnace and the blower running and it's fully welded and 100% sealed.

Mine has a gap all the way around it. When the blower runs it pushes a ton of air out the ash pan door.

Does your blower seal up against the back of the furnace or is it just sticking into a rough cutout of a hole into the air jacket?

*Edit* Nevermind, you don't even have a heatmax/tundra. You have a Caddy and it's a different design and why you don't have this issue.
 
The plug in the floor of firebox seals it off . This concern only pertains to those who dump their ashes down through the plug hole into the ash drawer and then continue to run the furnace with blower . If you just use it as a "dump" and promptly empty it then it would be fine . To me this
Something sbi should know better on how many thousands will purchase the unit and have no knowledge of this problem . I like mine but it begs the question ;How many people could be getting headaches and fatigue ect ,and not even know about coals in their furnace it seems unusually careless for sbi to not at least not have clear warnings

It's not fine, it's a design flaw. It makes the ash pan unusable and also leaks a ton of air out of the ash pan door preventing proper static pressures.
 
I'm going to call them Monday. I just got mine and might send it back for this reason. The company might be able to answer this. If this is indeed happening I don't see a quick fix. My old energy mate ashpan can go 2 days before I empty it and all toxic gases go out the flue.

They will simply tell you to return it. There is no fix.
 
Does your blower seal up against the back of the furnace or is it just sticking into a rough cutout of a hole into the air jacket?
All of the blowers that I have dealt with that didn't simply bolt on, were "sealed" by a strip of heavy felt slipped into a standard duct S slip, screwed to the inside of the furnaces air jacket on each of the four sides of the blower hole. When the blower is pushed into the hole, the felt seals it up well enough. I would think that this is the installers responsibility to do though.
The amount of air that the ash drawer and any seams on the furnace body can leak out is inconsequential in the big picture of setting static pressures on a 1000+ CFM blower. Your blower speed, duct system design, free flowing return air, and how you have any dampers or register shutters set in the supply ducts is 99% (or more) of it. Don't blame the Mfgr for inexperienced installer mistakes.
Cloud IT, before you wage all out war on SBI, how 'bout waiting long enough to see how they handle some of these other customers now. It's possible that they have copped an attitude toward you personally or that who you have been dealing with just stinks at their job. Either way is not good customer service, but it is possible, at least at this point, that yours is an isolated incident as far as how they have handled your problems. Not pushing the big RED button for a few more days won't hurt, give them a chance to respond to these other guys first, see what happens, then proceed accordingly.

I bet that the ones coming off the assembly line will soon be (if not already) fixed. It can't cost more than a few cents per unit more to seal up the ash drawer!
I can't tell from the pics, but I was wondering, how hard would it be to fix this ash drawer problem yourself? (for the average DIYer)
 
In all honesty, the manual should have stated not to operate with ash in the ashpan. If that was the case it wouldn't be an issue. I just assumed they enclosed it, which would have been a better option. Fortunately, no one was hurt here.

I've never had any issues with SBI, they have always been more than fair and have answered all of my questions, and warranty issues. I think they are an excellent company, and they will correct this either in literature or in assembly.

The reason why they won't sell the Caddy without going thru a dealer is, too many things can complicate installation. They want to be able to track their furnaces, and have dealers to backup their products in case of warranty or technical issues. Not everyone has the skills and tools for a proper install.

Hopefully everyone who has purchased a Tundra has registered their product so they can track things correctly.
 
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Well mine is sitting in theggarage. I haven't installed it yet but the blower is already installed on the furnace. I have to install the filter kit so will shine a light in there and see if there is any light in the ashpan. Also what serial number is your furnace? Maybe they fixed the problem on mine before they shipped it. Also is it just the tundra or is it the heatmax people are having trouble with.
 
All of the blowers that I have dealt with that didn't simply bolt on, were "sealed" by a strip of heavy felt slipped into a standard duct S slip, screwed to the inside of the furnaces air jacket on each of the four sides of the blower hole. When the blower is pushed into the hole, the felt seals it up well enough. I would think that this is the installers responsibility to do though.
The amount of air that the ash drawer and any seams on the furnace body can leak out is inconsequential in the big picture of setting static pressures on a 1000+ CFM blower. Your blower speed, duct system design, free flowing return air, and how you have any dampers or register shutters set in the supply ducts is 99% (or more) of it. Don't blame the Mfgr for inexperienced installer mistakes.
Cloud IT, before you wage all out war on SBI, how 'bout waiting long enough to see how they handle some of these other customers now. It's possible that they have copped an attitude toward you personally or that who you have been dealing with just stinks at their job. Either way is not good customer service, but it is possible, at least at this point, that yours is an isolated incident as far as how they have handled your problems. Not pushing the big RED button for a few more days won't hurt, give them a chance to respond to these other guys first, see what happens, then proceed accordingly.

I bet that the ones coming off the assembly line will soon be (if not already) fixed. It can't cost more than a few cents per unit more to seal up the ash drawer!
I can't tell from the pics, but I was wondering, how hard would it be to fix this ash drawer problem yourself? (for the average DIYer)

Wow, what? Do you even have or have seen this furnace in person?

First, the blower comes installed on every unit.
Second, if you think the blower being mounted like the attached photo is "inconsequential" in the big picture of static pressure then you are flat out wrong.
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Third, I'm not waging all out war against anyone. I've made tons of positive comments in this thread about this furnace. It has great potential but as the SBI rep told me, they simply cut too many corners in the development and went too far with reducing cost. Fourth, I've had repeated issues that go weeks without getting a reply. Their customer service is bad, like really bad. My standards are probably a bit higher than most because I expect a similar type of experience that I provide for my customers. SBI's CS isn't even remotely close.
Fifth, I was told that I would get a prototype replacement furnace to test to see if the issues were fully resolved. The "fix" wasn't supposed to be ready until Jan and I started complaining about these issues and made contact with SBI in September. Their promise became a lie right before Christmas and I was told there was no fix for the ash pan gap and that I could get a bracket to fix the blower gap issue.

The ash pan gap runs the total length of the drawer area and would be next to impossible to properly fix. My dad was a boilermaker for his entire life and said he couldn't weld it.

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Laynes69 I respect your opinion and fully disagree. Marking a product with a oversized ashpan as a feature knowing that you can't use it is simply wrong. You could as you say empty it out every time but you would have to wash the pan with soap and water to prevent fine ash dust from being distributed throughout your house. As you can see from my pictures I cleaned as best I could but the damage was already done and you see fine dust in every picture. If I clean it with water it just comes back. It's spread throughout the furnace jacket and my ducts in my home.

There are even more issues I haven't mentioned yet. When I received the unit the baffle was broken and they sent me a new one. It took a month and a half to receive but I did get it. When I tried to install it I ran into a problem removing the secondary burn tubes, they simply wouldn't come out. I sent an email requesting a phone call for help. I'm still waiting on that phone call.... I did receive a quick response from a guy that said to follow the directions and sent me a copy of the owners manual where it outlined the procedure. I had already told him i had it and that it wasn't working and sent him the pictures below when we finally got one out by simply pounding the crap out of it.

Turns out the secondary burn tubes warp under normal use and the lip will catch on the channel where the secondary air flows. Every one of mine were stuck and I had to use vice grips and a hammer to remove them. Well, actually my 70 year old dad had to do it
because I have two ruptured disks in my back and you can only imagine how awkward the position would be to remove them.
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If you have a tundra/heatmax and have been using it for a month or so, go see if you can remove them. I would be interested to know your results.

You guys speak as if you are affiliated with SBI in some way. I have no such affiliation and that gives me the liberty to speak openly about the furnace defects.
 
Well mine is sitting in theggarage. I haven't installed it yet but the blower is already installed on the furnace. I have to install the filter kit so will shine a light in there and see if there is any light in the ashpan. Also what serial number is your furnace? Maybe they fixed the problem on mine before they shipped it. Also is it just the tundra or is it the heatmax people are having trouble with.

The tundra/heatmax model number game is simply so retailers don't have to honor any price match guarantees. Both units are the same.

See if every sheet metal screw is stripped when you try to install the filter kit. Every screw on mine was overtightened and I had to use a knife to pry the screws out so they wouldn't simply spin. The last thread was completely gone on every one of my screws. I can post a picture later if you anyone doesn't understand what I mean.
 
I checked my screws on the blower. The ones that attach the shield to the furnace came out and are not stripped. The other ones that hold the sheet metal together are stripped. Are these the ones you are talking about cloud it.
 
I checked my screws on the blower. The ones that attach the shield to the furnace came out and are not stripped. The other ones that hold the sheet metal together are stripped. Are these the ones you are talking about cloud it.

Yes, all the sheet metal screws are stripped. I'm not sure what you mean about the shield.
 
Reading this after starting a roaring fire gives me a really crappy feeling! I just emptied my ash pan yesterday, so its clean, but I just opened the door and sure enough, I could feel plenty of air flowing out the ash pan door opening! WTF!

What are everyones front and flu temps? I have a magnetic (Rutland) gauge on the heat exchanger door that never reads higher than 300*F, and an internal flu probe in double wall black that never passes 400*F. I'm use to my old Vogelzang Norseman 2500 where front temps would reach 400*F - 500*F and flu temps would reach 800*F internally (about 24" above rear connector).

I have the fan set on the lowest setting and rarely does it stay on for more than 15 minutes at a time. My chimney is straight up other than 90* out the back, @27' tall, and I have a straight shot without any dampers of any sort. I have not measured my draft, but is seems to burn pretty well with front damper closed after about 20-30 minutes of wide open warm up.

PS- half my screws are stripped and very difficult to remove as well.

Eric
 
The screws that hold the filter box to the furnace are fine. The screws that hold the filter box together are strippe but the only way I could see the screws holding in that thin metal would be sort of clips so the screws had something to grab.
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Well They are not threaded up to the heads they are not stripped they just dobt lock down so what I did was on loose ones I add a small thin washer and then they " grab" mine doesn't leak much air around ash door itself but I won't be using that large ash pan now that's for sure I don't want any chance of dust blowing into my ducts in fact after reading all this I think ill use this furnace for the season and just bite the bullet and get a caddy from a local dealer . I like the features of the unit but don't like the nutty shortcuts to save a buck .. I guess in retrospect There is a reason the caddy costs twice as much
 
Well They are not threaded up to the heads they are not stripped they just dobt lock down so what I did was on loose ones I add a small thin washer and then they " grab" mine doesn't leak much air around ash door itself but I won't be using that large ash pan now that's for sure I don't want any chance of dust blowing into my ducts in fact after reading all this I think ill use this furnace for the season and just bite the bullet and get a caddy from a local dealer . I like the features of the unit but don't like the nutty shortcuts to save a buck .. I guess in retrospect There is a reason the caddy costs twice as much

This is what I was thinking about doing as well but at the caddy price point I might as well get a kumma vaporfire and get even better efficiency. That and the fact that there isn't a PSG dealer anywhere near me and I can't even order one online.

I don't know of any other product that is sold that you can't buy online unless the distributor is local to you. I'm sure there is something but not one that I know of.

I was wanting the furnace to be fixed but they said in writing that it can't be fixed. All the ductwork will have to be redone if I change furnaces too. It really sucks.
 
Obviously the ashpan is different, but the only other differences that I know of is a cast iron heat exchanger door, a c-cast baffle and our tubes are cut different (removal with a cotter pin). I do know our tubes glow cherry red every year and they are as straight as the day made. That and a larger plenum opening. In reality if the ashpan was fixed, I don't see the difference in price. There's not that much difference. I will say efficiency wise vs the Kuuma, they both run in the same temperature range on flue temps. They both operate with no smoke once up to temp, the difference is the combustion process is automated on the Kuuma. In the end it makes for a cleaner furnace, but I doubt there's a substantial difference in wood usage between the two. They both are very efficient. As far as price, I understand the Kuuma is a very well built furnace, and the combustion results are impressive, but not everyone can cough up 5,000 dollars after shipping. I'm lucky, I have a very nice furnace that I have maybe 1,500 into.
 
Is there anyway that they can fix the ashpan? Its hard to believe they would keep selling the furnace after knowing about this problem. Surely they must of known about it months ago and continued selling them.
 
I've known about this for some time but promised to keep quiet about it in hopes of a resolution. Was promised a new furnace once a fix was in place but a month later they went back on their word and changed it to giving me $300 bucks or I could take it back to where I got it from and get a full refund.
What???? You knew about this since September and you said nothing?? Asking you to keep quiet about this amounts to a corporate cover up. How in your right mind do you think it is ok not to warn other people of this potentially deadly safety hazard. When i realized what was going on it took me less then an hour to get on this forum and spread the word. I thought that is what sites like this was for. I asked you what this issues were with this furnace directly on the forum and in a pm and you ignored them. instead you sat back and did nothing in hopes of special treatment of a new furnace. if you ask me your just as bad as SBI in this case. coming to this forum and still posting and watching others purchase this furnace and subject there family to CO poisoning is mind blowing and you should be ashamed of yourself.
 
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