Introducing Brand New Wood Furnace to Market - The Drolet Tundra!

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Never said much going to send me a thermodisc the is 110f to 90 I guess the other is trouble
Is your wood dry? Do you know what your draft is? I put a fresh load of wood on my fire 4 hours ago and my blower has only turned off 3 times. I have a magnetic thermometer on the fire box and my temp is about 350 degrees.
 
Is your wood dry? Do you know what your draft is? I put a fresh load of wood on my fire 4 hours ago and my blower has only turned off 3 times. I have a magnetic thermometer on the fire box and my temp is about 350 degrees.
The wood is not really dry but not not bad I don't know what the draft is.I don't have a manometer. I was reading about the thermodisc is trouble, what type of furnace u have.
 
The wood is not really dry but not not bad I don't know what the draft is.I don't have a manometer. I was reading about the thermodisc is trouble, what type of furnace u have.
I have the Tundra which is the same as the heatmax. Two things this furnace needs is really dry wood and the right draft to operate correctly.
 
If I had a manometer ,the wood is not to bad.
There is wood that I think isn't bad either until I check it with the meter and its still way too wet. Unless your wood is two years old and been split the whole time its more than likely still too wet. My recommendation is to buy a moisture meter and manometer. What kind of wood you burning?
 
How much is the ket

Thanks so u have to cut a new hole ,so does the new one fit in
It's been awhile since I installed it, but I don't think there was any cutting involved. It comes with a plate you screw on top and the new thermodisc attaches to that plate.
 
It's been awhile since I installed it, but I don't think there was any cutting involved. It comes with a plate you screw on top and the new thermodisc attaches to that plate.
OK thanks I guess will help to keep my blower in a little longer. How much wood u burn .
 
OK thanks I guess will help to keep my blower in a little longer. How much wood u burn .
I'm at about 2 1/2 cords so far this winter. I had some issues where my vermiculite baffle cracked and it was burning through a lot of wood. I'm kind of in a bad spot right now because the rest of my wood is out in my shed and it's wetter than it should be so I'm going to use more. Next year I'll make sure I have more dry stuff in the basement to begin with.
 
Oh I did not get to new update one
Hey there, me again. Just can't get away from me can you?! :laugh:
When you get the new switch if it doesn't make any difference then maybe SBI will send you the parts to relocate the switch.
But it sure sounds like the switch is only part of the problem, like I said before, and now Wisneaky is saying, don't underestimate the effect of not having really dry wood. If everything else is right and you have sub par wood it is still not gonna make good heat for you. Thats the nature of the beast on all of the newer clean burn furnaces including the Max.
The other thing is the chimney. The furnace is just a metal box with a fire in it. The chimney is the "engine" that drives the furnace to work. If you don't have proper draft. you are done. If you think of the furnace as a 1 ton 4x4 pickup, you want a big powerful engine in a 1 ton because you only buy those to do work. But if you have a chimney that doesn't work right, it's like having a 1500cc 4 cyl engine in that 1 ton truck. Nobody is gonna be happy with that. It's not the trucks fault it doesn't have any power, she's ready to carry a heavy load, just doesn't have the power to do it.
With that said, what is your chimney like? External to the house? Masonary? Internal size? If it is lined, is it insulated?
 
Hey there, me again. Just can't get away from me can you?! :laugh:
When you get the new switch if it doesn't make any difference then maybe SBI will send you the parts to relocate the switch.
But it sure sounds like the switch is only part of the problem, like I said before, and now Wisneaky is saying, don't underestimate the effect of not having really dry wood. If everything else is right and you have sub par wood it is still not gonna make good heat for you. Thats the nature of the beast on all of the newer clean burn furnaces including the Max.
The other thing is the chimney. The furnace is just a metal box with a fire in it. The chimney is the "engine" that drives the furnace to work. If you don't have proper draft. you are done. If you thing of the furnace as a 1 ton 4x4 pickup, you want a big powerful engine in a 1 ton because you only buy those to do work. But if you have a chimney that doesn't work right, it's like having a 1500cc 4 cyl engine in the truck. Nobody is gonna be happy with that. It's not the trucks fault it doesn't have any power, she's ready to carry a heavy load, just doesn't have the power to do it.
With that said, what is your chimney like? External to the house? Masonary? Internal size? If it is lined, is it insulated?
Im getting good draft I installed a baro regulator a few days ago, I have a prefab in side my house
 
Im getting good draft I installed a baro regulator a few days ago, I have a prefab in side my house
Just because you have a baro doesn't mean your getting good draft. You really need a manometer to find out what the draft is. It's almost impossible to even set a baro correctly without one.
 

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