Is a Homelite Super 2 Worth Messing With?

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Baconaman

Saw Guru In Training
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A friend of mind found out I was tinkering with saws and gave me this saw and said if I didn't want it to toss it. The pictures don't tell the whole story, I just took these as a reference to search about the make and model so if need be, I can take better pictures. I essentially want to know if these saws are worth spending any time and money on.

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No real resale value but a saw none the less. The are a dam good top handle saw and have a quite a bit of power for the size. I have a few of them in different trim levels. Usually fuel lines, carb kit, and duck bill valves and your off running. I have ran mine with 193s 150s, and a echo they definatly hold their own with power. Yours has no antivibe so it will make your hands tingle after a bit. Impressive little guys.
 
Here is a link to 5 pages or more of Super 2 chainsaws and their parts that HAVE SOLD on flea bay just to give you a general idea of your question about worth.
Several NEW parts are obsolete and there are several version of the saw so you have to be careful about getting correct parts. Those ID numbers on your saws tags are glued on and will usually fall off or not readiable if the saw has been used very much. (might want to write those numbers down for future reference) Use those ID's when looking a parts diagrams to make sure you are on the correct diagram and page. They are good little occasional use jeep/ATV and trim saws if it starts easily after it's been stored with no gas in the system. (some are contrary to start after being stored and need a spoonful of mixed gas dumped in thru the muffler which is easier than priming the carb. Usually parts needed are Duckbills, gas and oil lines, carb kit. Have good power for their size when running good.
Seems average price for selling in running condition is around $70. You have to be careful, you can easily get more $$'s into one if you do not have any donor saws for parts, especially if one needs a bar and chain.
Check out this link to some parts and saws that have sold on flea bay.
Remove the muffler and look at the piston and cylinder first, remove the clutch side plate and look at the sprocket, if very many hours the sprocket will be worn out and be careful if you have to remove the clutch, the centrifugal type with no springs with cast ears will sometimes break if hammered on or may already be broke. You should feel good compression feedback to the pull rope when gently cranking to get idea about compression.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=homelite super 2 chainsaw&LH_Complete=1&LH_Sold=1&rt=nc&_trksid=p2045573.m1684
 
Yes, I think so. I have about 15 saws, and the super 2 (dual trigger magnesium 32cc) is the one I grab for any yard clean up, which can be substantial at times.

Wish I had another in real nice shape.
 
So as said on other threads, I have my XL2 dual trigger. Is that just a smaller motor version of the Super 2?
 
So as said on other threads, I have my XL2 dual trigger. Is that just a smaller motor version of the Super 2?
Yes the XL-2 are only 26cc, PHO 7lb 9.5oz, but my 2 are with points and were the only problem with mine... the points closed up. Regap and away we go like a new saw.
I however did stay with 1/4" chain on the early saw, though 3/8lp seems ok on my second later saw. Main problem tends to be E-10 damage to the oiler diaphragm or carb.
 
They cut ok, sometimes they smoke (probably related to oiler issues) and they have low resale value around here ($45-$50). Go ahead and fix it up. Makes a good truck saw. Also handy for construction use.
 
I have had 4 XL's and they all had fuel delivery issues and one had issues with oil being sucked back into the crankcase. The Super 2 is more desirable so if I found one I would probably fix it, but knowing that it isn't worth much on the resale market.

I kept the one that belonged to my grandpa (he got it as a prize giveaway so it didn't get used much) and want to get that one going. Got rid of the others.
 
They cut ok, sometimes they smoke (probably related to oiler issues) and they have low resale value around here ($45-$50). Go ahead and fix it up. Makes a good truck saw. Also handy for construction use.

Remove the bar oil and make a short test run on one that's smoking. If it quits smoking it definitely the oiler system and if it's the type with the Duckbill into the oiler tank the duckbill is bad, usually. (the duckbill is not back checking the crankcase pulses and the engine is sucking bar oil backwards into the crankcase)and sometimes they will still oil the bar but also smoke with a weak duckbill. (and the cheaper China duckbills don't survive very long in the oil tank)
 
So as said on other threads, I have my XL2 dual trigger. Is that just a smaller motor version of the Super 2?
Yes, other than the slight difference in the motor size, the XL2 and Super2 are virtually the identical saws; says it right in the owner's manual!

I have beat the snot out of my old Super2 so much over the past 30+ years that I am quite surprised it has never given me a bit of problem. I REALLY love that saw, so much that I have begun to worry about wearing it out (it is the saw I grab first for all the light work). I have started casually looking for another Super2, or better yet, and XL2 with short bar, to back it up. Unfortunately, I live in a small remote mountain community, so not many options for finding used stuff.

That was my first saw, and I knew virtually nothing about taking care of it. The old manual from the 80s says to use Hoemelight oil at 32:1, or other 2-cycle oil at 16:1, so for 20 years of sometimes hard use with a 16" bar, that saw got nothing but OMC boat oil at 16:1 and seemed to love it (also kept the mosquitoes away!). The only repairs that saw has ever needed are the tank caps and fuel lines replaced once. I think I replaced the spark plug for the first time just two weeks ago! And I didn't do it because it was running bad - just doing general maintenance on all my tools.
 
Oops, just noticed I got suckered into posting to a dead thread! I try not to necropost, but the post dates on this forum really do not show up well. Oh well - there is another currently active thread here about the XL - same info applies.
 
I wasn't trying to sucker anyone, saw the thread in the XL thread and decided someone might get some use from the duckbill thing. I worked on one yesterday and told the customer about the oil level. I also had to order some more duckbill valves, that was my last one...
 
I wasn't trying to sucker anyone, saw the thread in the XL thread and decided someone might get some use from the duckbill thing. I worked on one yesterday and told the customer about the oil level. I also had to order some more duckbill valves, that was my last one...

Where do you get the duckbills?

Reason I ask is I don't know of a place to buy good long lasting replacement duckbills. I've seen them priced low and high, mostly high and I've bought some in past that would go bad (soften) when in the oil tank. Probably China versions.
 
Where do you get the duckbills?

Reason I ask is I don't know of a place to buy good long lasting replacement duckbills. I've seen them priced low and high, mostly high and I've bought some in past that would go bad (soften) when in the oil tank. Probably China versions.
I'm having a local mower shop order a pack of 10 for me. They're sold by Oregon with part # 07-004. I don't know what they cost but it's usually over a dollar apiece for sure. The package says they're made in the USA. I'm hoping they're still available..
 
I'm having a local mower shop order a pack of 10 for me. They're sold by Oregon with part # 07-004. I don't know what they cost but it's usually over a dollar apiece for sure. The package says they're made in the USA. I'm hoping they're still available..
Available on Amazon for just over $4 ea.
 
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