Is any one running a electric motor on there Hydraulic splitter

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Eric Modell

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I have a 26 ton Brave splitter and I am thinking about putting an electric motor on it.

The splitter never levees the house and a electric motor would be quieter and efficient.

I have a few questions about how large a motor I will need.

The splitter has a 8HP B&S. 4.5 inch cylinder. 16 GPM pump.

I am thinking a 5HP motor with a flywheel might do the trick.

Thanks for any comments or suggestions.

Eric
 
My gut feeling is that you'd be ok. There are formulas, but .......

My electric Hydraulic pumps are on lovejoy's which don't facilitate a flywheel. Though flywheels are helpful in some situations. Hydraulic may not be one , I am not sure.
 
I looked at granger catalog and did not see a 5 HP c face motor to directly mount the pump.
I thought the flywheel might help the performance since the power is only needed monetarily.
I was also wondering if I could spin the pump a little faster since they are rated for 4000 RPM.
 
I looked at granger catalog and did not see a 5 HP c face motor to directly mount the pump.
I thought the flywheel might help the performance since the power is only needed monetarily.
I was also wondering if I could spin the pump a little faster since they are rated for 4000 RPM.

How are you going to run a flywheel? It would take a couple substantial belts. They would be a clutch also.

I think your need for "max power' will be slightly longer than the advantage that a flywheel will give. Mine is on lovejoys.
 
I Thought I could put the pump on one end of a shaft and a flywheel on the other end. I could the use a pulley in middle to drive it. If a c face motor is available, I do not think I would consider it.
Rvalue are you running a electric, and if so how big of a motor is it.
 
I'm running a 16gph Barns pump, on a hydraulic press, with a 5hp Lesson elec motor. Not a wood splitter, but it is set up like a splitter. The 5hp elec has plenty of power and works fine. Do not try the flywheel thing, just use lovejoy couplings. You don't need a C face either.

I'm going to add a 2ph elec motor to my SS at some point, but that's a completly diff situation...
 
I have an electric motor on my splitter, 1750 rpm, 10 amp, 240 volt, nominal 2 hp, but torque wise more like a 5 hp gas engine. (I have to do the math again to be sure). With electric motors, as you double the rpm, the torque halves. At the lower rpm, 1750 rpm, the flow of hydraulic is also halved, so the cycle time of the hydraulic ram increases. A 3450 rpm electric motor is more like a gas engine in pumping capacity. Electric motors still have a hydraulic pump whine, more so with the 3450 rpm motor.

With all that, I would not go back to a gas engine if you are within reach of an outlet with the electrical output you need. I am always amazed at the noise and fumes that come from gas engines. With the electric, you can split in a shed, out of the wind and snow. And listen to the radio.

Maybe this is useful
 
no flywheel

You dont need/want a flywheel, I think a 3 hp elec 3450 rpm motor would work just fine, Your full load is only a few sec, check the pump mfg recomendations , Eric
 
I work on my hydraulic junk all the time, and it is amazing what works and doesn't work.

The hydraulic shop swears my bucket truck has a 6 gpm pump on it, and it pulls down the 4 cyl. wisconsin. (35 horse?)

Go figure.


I am not sure about the 1/2 torque comment, but maybe.

I know an air compressor works almost as well on 1750, and lasts longer, and is WAY quieter.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

Sunfish My mind was not operating very clearly. I can use a in-line coupling with out a c face.
 
Here is a useful website for building machinery.

Motor Formulas

Torque is simply the twisting force that turns the hydraulic pump. Foot pounds of torque are the way of equating the different outputs of gas,diesel, or hydraulic motors. I think you need something like 10 foot pounds of torque for the typical hydraulic pump for a 4 inch logsplitter. My electric splitter has 9.5 foot pounds for a 3.5 inch hydraulic cylinder. That combination seems to need the 10 amp, 240 volt, 1750 electric motor. I am not sure how a 3450 motor that sie (10 amp, 3450 rpm) would work, but it might end up stalling the electric motor.

Check out the specs for the electric motors in http: VIEW OUR OTHER MODELS because they make solid electric splitters. I have older one from them, in addition to the one I made.

By the way, electric motors, when loaded, do not slow down, they simply demand more amps. If they do stall, ie., stop spinning completely, the electrical demand becomes instant motor destroying heat. Hence the need for an thermal cutoff in the motor.

Hopefull useful.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

Sunfish My mind was not operating very clearly. I can use a in-line coupling with out a c face.

A C-face and bolt on pump mount housing is definitely the easiest way yo go. Otherwise use a right-angle pump bracket and very carefully line up the motor with pump. The closest ya get them lined up, the quieter the pump will be and the components will last longer.

I bought most of my hydraulic stuff from Northern Hydro...
 
Electric

I have a 26 ton Brave splitter and I am thinking about putting an electric motor on it.

The splitter never levees the house and a electric motor would be quieter and efficient.

I have a few questions about how large a motor I will need.

The splitter has a 8HP B&S. 4.5 inch cylinder. 16 GPM pump.

I am thinking a 5HP motor with a flywheel might do the trick.

Thanks for any comments or suggestions.

Eric
I took a 20 ton 3 pt splitter and put a 3 hp electric motor with a 16 gpm pump motor over heated had to drop to a 11 gpm pump. Then I turned the pressure up. I have it in a building and it works great. It has not stalled on any thing and it works faster than me it 15 seconds in and out toll time. But if you looking for speed go with the 16 gpm and the 5 to 7.50 electric motor. I think you will be pleased with the 11 gpm and 3 hp. Remember a 3 hp electric motor is same as a 6 hp gas. Later for more info call Doug at Ramsplitters at Rockford Illinois.
 
Info

Call Doug at Ramsplitters.com tell him what you want you will get the hold works to do the job he does that he makes the best electric log splitter in the business.Charles
 
Electric info

I have a 26 ton Brave splitter and I am thinking about putting an electric motor on it.

The splitter never levees the house and a electric motor would be quieter and efficient.

I have a few questions about how large a motor I will need.

The splitter has a 8HP B&S. 4.5 inch cylinder. 16 GPM pump.

I am thinking a 5HP motor with a flywheel might do the trick.

Thanks for any comments or suggestions.

Eric
A five hp electric motor is same as a ten hp gas. A fly wheel would not work on a electric motor the minute you turn it on you have max power right then. With a 5 to 7 hp you will have a bad machine trust me. I ordered a new 20 ton for my tractor. I am building a 8 ft splitter out of a old fork lift I wore out. It has a three stage ram. No idea yet. I am still using as a reason to set in a chair and study the thing. You always have have to have a reason to not a thing but every body thinks your real busy.
 
Here is a useful website for building machinery.

Motor Formulas

Torque is simply the twisting force that turns the hydraulic pump. Foot pounds of torque are the way of equating the different outputs of gas,diesel, or hydraulic motors. I think you need something like 10 foot pounds of torque for the typical hydraulic pump for a 4 inch logsplitter. My electric splitter has 9.5 foot pounds for a 3.5 inch hydraulic cylinder. That combination seems to need the 10 amp, 240 volt, 1750 electric motor. I am not sure how a 3450 motor that sie (10 amp, 3450 rpm) would work, but it might end up stalling the electric motor.

Check out the specs for the electric motors in http: VIEW OUR OTHER MODELS because they make solid electric splitters. I have older one from them, in addition to the one I made.

By the way, electric motors, when loaded, do not slow down, they simply demand more amps. If they do stall, ie., stop spinning completely, the electrical demand becomes instant motor destroying heat. Hence the need for an thermal cutoff in the motor.

Hopefull useful.
I have a 1 hp electric on my log splitter. About 40 years old. Works great. Might bog down a bit in knots, but not bad. It's a single stage. I'd like to put a 2 stage pump on it. , but don't know what s
ize pump to go with. Has an old Double A Gearotor pump on it. Any suggestions?
I have a 26 ton Brave splitter and I am thinking about putting an electric motor on it.

The splitter never levees the house and a electric motor would be quieter and efficient.

I have a few questions about how large a motor I will need.

The splitter has a 8HP B&S. 4.5 inch cylinder. 16 GPM pump.

I am thinking a 5HP motor with a flywheel might do the trick.

Thanks for any comments or suggestions.

Eric
 

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