Is my Husqvarna 455 Rancher worn out?

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I made a purchase today. Seemed like the Echo CS-590 has gotten some good press. With a leftover Home Depot gift card it knocked the price to half of what the Still MS-311 would have cost. My only complaint is the 70 tooth bar , I will have to get a new bar to take advantage of all my chains from the 455.
I fully intend on cracking the 455 open and seeing what it needs. I do need a reliable saw around the homestead and I hope this Echo will serve me well.
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Echo's are known to come tuned too lean from the factory and subject to burning up. If the dealer didn't retune it before he sold it to you find someone who can properly tune it.
 
I made a purchase today. Seemed like the Echo CS-590 has gotten some good press. With a leftover Home Depot gift card it knocked the price to half of what the Still MS-311 would have cost. My only complaint is the 70 tooth bar , I will have to get a new bar to take advantage of all my chains from the 455.
I fully intend on cracking the 455 open and seeing what it needs. I do need a reliable saw around the homestead and I hope this Echo will serve me well.
Didn't the 455 use a .325 chain? if so you will be switching your chain to 3/8 since the spur drum on the Echo is 3/8. I converted the one I gave my son to Rim and Drum.
 
I was planning on doing that. What are all the options as far as guide bars Archer, Tsmura is there an Oregon spec that fits without any modification?
D176 pattern. I do like the fact that Echo went from the Mac mount to I believe a husky mount on the 7310, easier to get bars.
 
The 455 used a .325? Probably, but thats not a fixed/required part.

Thats just a part to swap for strong cutting. The pitch of the spur sprocket, and bar nose, is irrelevant. That 590 will have you ankle-deep in chips with a 3/8" FULL chisel chain.

Also, I concur, that any sprocket drum change should go to a rim. They are less costly to replace each year, and keep the chain much truer as it runs down the bar. The Bar? should be hand-dressed to clear any waer on the rails, and the depth should be measured. Bars wear out, and when the drive links aren't in the groove all the way.............
 
ALL that info. is a simple google search. NONE of the bars you find, will need "modification". They will be the K041 mount pattern.
?. I placed a D176 on mine and it was a direct fit no problems.
 
Echo's are known to come tuned too lean from the factory and subject to burning up. If the dealer didn't retune it before he sold it to you find someone who can properly tune it.
I think the post prior says it was from Home Depot, so I doubt the dealer tuned it...
Nice buy on the Japanese saw though!

Yes the 455 is 3/8 chain.
 
Yep, that's 3/8 on my 455. Advice to change out for a drum clutch and rim sprocket is good, that way you can run either with a minor part swap and appropriate bar!

Kinda low compression on mine as well. It's sitting as my backup saw at the moment, but I'd like it 100%. Watching this thread.
 
Dont leave us in suspence Captain whats the cure?
Kash
The original oil line on all 450/455/460 consumer saws, was defective. It did not seat at the tank, and the twist in the line would split and leak. The re-call offered, to dealers, was a different oil line. Better tank grommet, shorter hose, and different part #....

The part # escapes me, but I did put a tutorial on my you tube channel. I can deep-dive if you really have need to solve this problem, personally.
 
I fully intend on cracking the 455 open and seeing what it needs.
I didn't see if you pulled the muffler to look for scoring. I'm working on a 455 right now that had less than 50# compression. I expected to find totally roached P&C but it was only a stuck ring - new Caber on order. There are several step by step videos on YT showing the teardown and reassembly of the 455. Good luck!
 
The original oil line on all 450/455/460 consumer saws, was defective. It did not seat at the tank, and the twist in the line would split and leak. The re-call offered, to dealers, was a different oil line. Better tank grommet, shorter hose, and different part #....

The part # escapes me, but I did put a tutorial on my you tube channel. I can deep-dive if you really have need to solve this problem, personally.
The bar/chain oil? I have a couple saws that are oil bedwetters. Interested.
 
My 455 Rancher seems to start ok, has trouble idling and then won't restart when warm.

I followed the Husqvarna manual in diagnosing the ignition module, it will throw a spark over a plug that is gaped at .040.
I put a compression tester on it cold and it came up about 110, read about 90 when warmed up. The tester I have was not specific to 2 cycle motors so I am not sure I got 100% seal on the cylinder.
The saw is 11 years old, tough to gauge if its down on power or not. I just know that its not running right and on our property I need a good running saw. I will verify compression tomorrow. Any other thoughts on what the problem might be?
My 570 Husqvarna says MIN=120psi compression, Day2 of new saw, after 12hrs+/-, it died, and I quit that tree, and did not pickup saw for 3yrs after, re: medical, found stuck ring, 90psi, out-of-warranty, quoted $600 to rebuild (paid $660+tax new); I brought home, cleaned piston ring groove, installed new ring (old ring was locked down TIGHT w/ carbon so thin you wudda thought magic-marker, amazing= MY LAST use of plain dino-oil at 40:1, = since= 50:1 synthetic (ECHO POWER BLEND**); Base gasket and new ring was $12.00, still running that saw, (13yrs later?), days at a time chainsaw hobby-milling. (** From my research, Echo= FIRST to go full synthetic AND FIRST to offer 5yr warranty= THEY believe in their oil?)= I am convinced by experience, too, now.
 

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