Is this what Stihl's have come to?

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I'm not here to say it's a good saw. I won't own one. There are better options out there IMHO. But a big deal was made of the master control switch, and it works exactly as designed.

It does, but I believe they know that not reading the manual is pretty common - and that combo switch is a bad idea anyway.

Having to pull the trigger to put it into choke or "halv-choke"/fast idle is my only complaint about my MS361 - it is annoying. :)
 
If you flip the master lever down without squeezing the throttle, it goes right to the "run" position, good for hot restart. If you squeeze the throttle while flipping the lever down, it goes naturally down to full choke.

Once you get the hang of it:

1. Squeeze throttle, flip lever all the way down to "full choke". Pull till it burbles.

2. With hand off throttle, flip lever up. Lever will stop at the "half choke" (fast idle) position. Pull starter lever.

3. Squeeze throttle, rev if desired/required, lever will automatically click up to the "run" position.

With this technique, you never have to look down and make sure you've moved the lever to the right detent.

And put it on full choke when you take the cover off! :clap:
 
And don't try to brand me as a blind folded Stihl lover. This thread just rubbed me the wrong way.

Me too, and there have been a rash of recent threads following this same format. Someone has an issue with one particular saw or feature, and they start a thread blasting the company and most of their products. I haven't read past the first page, but no doubt the Stihl guys are responding to this, AS WELL THEY SHOULD. The inevitable result is the usual Husky vs. Stihl argument.

There have also been a few threads ripping Baileys, or some other supplier. The order took two extra days, they made a mistake, blah, blah, blah. Even though they made it right, they didn't apologize enough or rub your boo-boo until the hurt went away.

Yeah, we all have things that disappoint us from time to time, but I don't really understand the need to start these "I'm pissed and I want the world to know about it" sound off threads.

It NEVER adds anything of value to the forum, and ALWAYS degenerates into a useless argument.
 
If you flip the master lever down without squeezing the throttle, it goes right to the "run" position, good for hot restart. If you squeeze the throttle while flipping the lever down, it goes naturally down to full choke.

....

That is true, and partly saves the situation.

It also is something that the manuals does not say a word about, probably because it will not always work!

Also, Husky etc does not describe just putting the orange tab in the on position, and leaving the choke tab alone, probably for the same reason.
 
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My first saw was a Stihl, so it's just second nature for me to pull the throttle first. The lever is designed to be used with your thumb, so your hand's already around the handle. It's only natural to grip it, which squeezes the throttle.

I have seen a few saws where the plastic of the handle allowed the switch shaft to pop out. I've also had to bend a few ground springs. Those might be considered design flaws, IF it's not from a worn out saw. But that's not what the compaint was in this thread.
 
So does Husky or Echo have a design that sets the throttle lock that doesn't require squeezing the throttle?
 
So does Husky or Echo have a design that sets the throttle lock that doesn't require squeezing the throttle?

All you do on a Husky is pull the choke out. It automatically puts it on fast throttle. It's a slick setup. But I've seen the plastic choke knob get sloppy and pull right out of the carb. It only snaps into a hole in the linkage. Is that a design flaw? I don't think so, but it could be better.
 
I'm certainly not a Stihl worshipper. I just fail to see how something is a design flaw, when it works as designed.

Brad...i meant more through out the whole site...not u personally. I was just meaning that if you say anything negative about stihl the wolves start circling and howling. I agree with you and others....there is no perfect saw!
well maybe one of them dolmar 7900's.....I dnt own one but i got to make a couple cuts with one before it was even broke in....yeah boy.....im about to spring on one of the makitas baileys has(before they go up in $$).....to me thats just the perfect saw...light, powerful, quick, and upgradable!
 
My favorite part about the "Brand X" saw sucks threads is that no one knows the operators skill level or what condition the saw is in.

I have neigbors here that have homeowner grade saws from different brands, and they barely know where to pour in bar oil or premix. They certainly can't sharpen a chain to save their life.

So when someone says that a particular saw sucks is relative in my book.

All manufacturers have their "inferior" grade saws... there's a reason for it... however most "Inferior" to some, is not viewed that way to others.

So I usually just LOL at these threads... :laugh:

Gary
 
My favorite part about the "Brand X" saw sucks threads is that no one knows the operators skill level or what condition the saw is in.

I have neigbors here that have homeowner grade saws from different brands, and they barely know where to pour in bar oil or premix. They certainly can't sharpen a chain to save their life.

So when someone says that a particular saw sucks is relative in my book.

All manufacturers have their "inferior" grade saws... there's a reason for it... however most "Inferior" to some, is not viewed that way to others.

So I usually just LOL at these threads... :laugh:

Gary

You know whats funny it doesn't make a difference what it is. I over heard my wifes brothers kids talking about box360 vs play st 3 on what was better. Back an forth they go.
 
My first saw was a Stihl, so it's just second nature for me to pull the throttle first. The lever is designed to be used with your thumb, so your hand's already around the handle. It's only natural to grip it, which squeezes the throttle. .....

It isn't really natural to grip the rear handle at that point (before the saw is started) - and it is only needed on Stihl saws as far as I know......;)
 
All manufacturers have their "inferior" grade saws... there's a reason for it... however most "Inferior" to some, is not viewed that way to others.

So I usually just LOL at these threads... :laugh:

Gary

I have one. My Echo CS-315 was designed to be a disposable saw because the better small saw was the Echo CS-302 and it was only like 10 bucks more. Funny thing is its 33 years later and mine is still cutting wood...Bob
 
You know whats funny it doesn't make a difference what it is. I over heard my wifes brothers kids talking about box360 vs play st 3 on what was better. Back an forth they go.

Yes Sir,



Some take thier saws and some them self way to serious!





TT
 
Back an forth they go.

Yup debates have been going on for centuries on about any subject and here isn't any different. Faster v slower, PRO v homeowner, orange v red, long v short, oil A or Oil B, gas x or name brand, 123 v 321...Bob
 
A few weeks ago I tried to start my Dolmar 7900 with the stop switch in the off position. By the time I realized it, it was completely flooded, and I had a real hard time getting it started again. So even other brands are not idiot proof, lol. I would expect better design from a Stihl though.
 
Choke levers on todays chainsaws work fine. After a few years of pro use, the stihl levers can stick alittle, the choke butterflies can stick closed in the morning. All you do is poke it open with a stick.
 
My neighbor was trying to cut down a small pine tree yesterday with his MS-250. It would hardly stay running, so he brought it over for me to look at. I get my neighbors power equipment when the don't run correctly, sort of goes with the territory of doing this sort of stuff for a living. I don't mind at all, it helps maintain good relationships, which doesn't seem to be the norm these days.

Anyhow, his MS-250 has very little time on it and just needed the chain sharpened and carburetor correctly adjusted. I also dumped his 2 year old fuel out of it and added some fresh mix.

The air cleaner was loose on the box, as the snaps were spread out slightly. No big deal there, I worked them in some and got it to snap in place, even though I thought the entire concept was "cheezy".

Got it running, and set the carb, and did a few test cuts with a sharp chain. It ran OK, but not impressive anyplace for power or cutting speed. Not sure what cc's they are, but runs like about 40cc or so, absolutely MAXXED out with an 18" bar/chain set-up. It would have been better suited to a 3/8 LP 14-16" bar.

Go to shut it off, and it continues to run. Turns out the metal spring deal had found it's way under the switch. I asked the owner and he said it hasn't been shutting off, so he's been choking it to kill out the engine.

Fixed that problem, then put the air cleaner cover back on and it's doing the same thing again...WTF??

Take the cover back off, which is another adventure all in itself. Couldn't they come up with something a little better there?

Turns out if you left the start switch in the upper or "run" position, (which is another thread all in itself about how complicated a simple operation should be) and tried to install the cover, it pushed the spring clip stop under the switch.

Anyhow, got it all back together and working correctly for him.

Not really wanting to start a Stihl bashing thread or anything of the sort, but that saw just wasn't showing me much for the price tag. I don't know how many cc's they are, but it wouldn't hold a candle to an Echo CS-510, and probably no faster anyplace than a CS-370 or 400.

What ever happened to a choke lever that works like a choke lever?

I'm glad I never got all wrapped up in the "lengendary" Stihl saw thing, because I'd be as unhappy with an MS-250 as I was with the POS orange Poulan's Husqvarna dumped on the market a few years ago.....Cliff



Spoken like a real troll...:clap:


Never had a problem with a Stihl MCL myself...


.
 
i run my wifes cs-310 in wood today on a few logs,,for the size of it,,30cc's,,it did a good job with the 12" b/c,wasn't the fastest thing by any means,,but it does a good job on 6-8" logs or limbing,,the 1 fantastic thing about it,,it is lighter then my 670,it was the first time i really got to run it since she said it is off limits,,,but she wasn't home
 
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