Jonsered 2095 project

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cedar rat

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Got this saw for a project, my oldest boy is learning about saw wrenching, he did most of the work on this saw. It was froze up from setting for years. Took the cylinder off, piston out and rings off, everything cleaned up really easily, she pulls good and hard now. Replaced the old fuel line, the tank vent needs to be repaired, easy fix. Cleaned the coil and flywheel up, now we have a good hot spark. To late tonight to fire it up, small town thing.

j2095.JPG

I am a bit confused, no sprocket, nor oiler and this clutch just seems wrong (flat belt pulley?) and the oil tank had sawdust in it.

Anybody know what's going on here, or suggestions on removing the clutch...

... maybe it was a concrete saw?

Any input would be appreciated, thanks!
 
Thanks for the replies, our goal is to send the saw to the woods, turn it into a chainsaw.

It looks like I will be needing quite a few parts to turn it back into a chainsaw.

Today I plan on using a strap wrench and impact to try and get the clutch off.

First Jonsered I've seen or handled in about 35 yrs, I like the feel and size of the saw. I've read it is a good mill saw, and a strong firewood cutter.

The saw has a nice deep rumble when the starter is being pulled, a little fresh gas and she fired right up! Sounds great! :)
 
I will make sure the oil passage is there and try blowing some compressed air though it. Jon, my son ,got the belt drive clutch off, I will try to get a pic up tomorrow.

The saw runs fine, even started on the first pull today. If I find the parts to turn it into a chainsaw, I will get a set of caber rings to put in it.;)
 
Usually a problem getting an oil pump to work. Sometimes not even drilled for the oil passage.

Joiler.JPG

Thanks for the pro tip rupedoggy!

We blew out the oiler holes then sprayed some WD through the oiler holes, all clear, :)

Looks like a husky clutch and oiler will fit right into this Big Red saw.

The boy keeps starting it up; again today it started on the first pull, that was when it was cold! I think using the choke to kill it helps with the ease of starting, currently it has no kill switch.

The clutch cover / chainbrake might take some hunting to find. If anyone has or or knows of one for sale, please let me know!

Thanks!

Cedar Rat
 
If you want it to fit correctly then chain brake side cover will have to be from a Jonsered 2094/5. Before spending much money on parts clean up the bearing surface and threads on the crank and make sure it will hold together running the oil pump and driving the chain.
 
This may work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jonsered-2...Used-Chainsaw-Parts-Oil-Pump-Gear-503463702-B
The 394 aftermarket side cover might work but you will have to paint it.

Link gave an ebay error page, but it got me digging a bit deeper into ebay, thanks! ;)

If you want it to fit correctly then chain brake side cover will have to be from a Jonsered 2094/5. Before spending much money on parts clean up the bearing surface and threads on the crank and make sure it will hold together running the oil pump and driving the chain.

I cleaned up the crankshaft with some green scotchbrite and took before and after pics. :)

pto_before.JPG pto_after2.JPG

Interesting, that must be a grease hole?
 
That is rough right in the bearing path. Stock up on drum bearings and keep an eye on drum wobble, it can eat oils and seals when the drum bearings fail. I would keep cleaning until even the scale damage is the color of the good clean steel.
 
That is rough right in the bearing path. Stock up on drum bearings and keep an eye on drum wobble, it can eat oils and seals when the drum bearings fail. I would keep cleaning until even the scale damage is the color of the good clean steel.

Should we use some 400 wet dry on it, or stick with the scotchbrite?
 
You can still get the clutch cover here in Canada for an absurd price, so in most cases it should still be available in the US.
Leave the crank as is, let a new bearing and some grease sort itself out.
Take inventory of all the parts you need and price them all out, be forwarned that many of the parts are NLA and not many Husqvarna 394 fit up to the 2095.
 
I would hit the rough spots with a fine wire steel brush using a rotary tool. The goal being to make sure any iron oxides, salts, etc are removed without changing the shape of good steel. Cover the seal with tape while working and rinse the area good with an oily solvent( fuel, mineral spirits, naphtha), when finished wire brushing and it has been rinsed grease it down to keep it from oxidizing over. If you think that it needs it hit it with the scotch bite once more before greasing. Be a 5 minute job with a Dremil tool.

Lots of cranks get cleaned up with a bit of Emory paper or such. It is hard to get the pitting clear of abrasives without a brush, or such.

EBay is probably the easiest source for parts beyond maybe this sites wanted ads, dealer sourced parts for those saws pretty dried up when I looked. Parts diagrams are availible online easily if you want to check Jonsered to Husqvarna compatibility.
 
Was hoping to make a parts order today, it looks like it will have to be postponed. We have a bid on two six-by M-35 trucks, we will need to pay for in the next two weeks, if we happen to win. Boy will they move wood and logs. :)

Project Jonsered 2095 is on temporary hold. :(
 
I used a kill switch from a 2054. Just enough wire and the switch is the same so no fitment issues
 
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