Jonsered 2260 Hot Bar

[grobinson2]

Have a Jonsered 2260 that has one or two hours on it. After getting it reprogrammed last year it starts and runs like a champ. Clearly does not get used much but is very well taken care of. Running Stihl platinum bar oil. Last two times I used it the bar and chain really started heating up. I have a 20" Total Jonsered bar on the saw. I was cutting a chestnut tree that came down. Chain was a new chain. Chain started turning like a brown color on the teeth and the bar got hot enough to turn the silver to black. Shut the saw down and chain went around by hand so easy it was like you could almost make it turn by blowing on it so its not like it was too tight or something was jammed in there. Had a local shop that used to sell Jonsered back when 2171 were just coming out and they said everything looked good on the oiler but that it was already adjusted to max. What am I missing? Thanks again, Glenn

 

[cuinrearview]

I'd make sure the bar holes and slots aren't plugged. Are you seeing good oil on the drivers when you lift them out of the slot?

 

[grobinson2]

Holes clear. Some oil, not as much as my 2139T or Stihl pole saw. Pics attached.

 

[Deleted member 149229]

Can you see oil fly off the bar/chain onto a flat surface when you piss rev it?

 

[cuinrearview]

Looks like a dull chain

 

[grobinson2]

Chain was just sharpened and very sharp before the cut that heated the bar up. No to oil being flung from the bar. While on here, does anyone know if the Husqvarna 562 filler caps that I put on the 2260 will also fit on the 2139T? Please note the chain looked brand new (nice and shiny) when I started the cut and turned that brown color on top of the tooth after it started to heat.

 

[Deleted member 149229]

If you’re not getting oil flying off the chain when piss reving then you don’t have enough oil to cut. The oil supply screw may very well be wide open but the oil isn’t getting to where it’s needed. When you refill with fuel is the oil tank level going down also?

 

[grobinson2]

Yes. Tank is down but not as far down as say it would be on my 2139T (use all the time) or my Stihl pole saw. Both of those saws when I am out of gas the oil reservoir is not empty but very close. The 2260 has maybe 1/4 left.

 

[cuinrearview]

A lot of those Total J-red bars were .058.

 

[grobinson2]

I am using Stihl chain (after the local Husqvarna dealer insisted to me Jonsered and Husqvarna are totaly different saws I try not to use them) so our local Stihl dealer is awesome! He has to order them in for me as of course they are not the same as what his Stihl bar saw guys use. He also gets my chain for the 2139T.

 

[cuinrearview]

Maybe somethin' with the new chain...

 

[grobinson2]

Did the same thing last week on another chain...

 

[cuinrearview]

Not too many places for the heat to come from... Have never seen one combust spontaneously.

 

[Deleted member 149229]

Always check obvious first. What is actual bar groove width and what are chain drive link thickness? I just had a guy that has a landscaping business, knows nothing about saws, bring me his saw because the drive rim broke. .325 rim and 3/8 chain and bar don’t work well together.

 

[holeycow]

if you happen to be doing full or almost full-bar cuts continuously, over and over, not many oilers will keep up to that.

and as already mentioned there should be oil flinging off the chain and building up on the bar if you rev it out of the wood. Piss-revving not necessary...even half throttle should quickly build up oil.

nice saw, btw!

 

[Terrence Jefferson]

Is the bar slot clean? I use a putty knife and clean it out to be sure there isn't ant saw dust building up in it . That will slow your oil from getting on the chain and will heat up the bar.

 

[ammoaddict]

Did the same thing last week on another chain...

My 6100 does the same thing. It oils but after you cut a few minutes, it gets dry and very hot. I bought a new tsumura bar and it looks like yours after the first time I used it. I am going to try to elongate the oil hole and see if that helps.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

 

[rarefish383]

I've only been doing this for 50 years, and even with the blurry picture, your chain is DULL. If it was brand new when you started the cut, did you check to see if you got real lucky and hit a big steel spike or something on the first cut. In the pics there is plenty of oil dripping around the mounting studs and in the oil groove. If it wasn't getting any oil, and got hot enough to turn the color of the steel in the bar, the chain would have seized up. You said it was turning easy, that only leaves one thing, it's real dull. You can argue till you turn blue, that the saw is sharp, but all you are doing is showing you don't know what sharp is. I don't mean to be disrespectful, but I can SEE the top plate rounded and the leading point is gone. If you live anywhere near MD I'd be happy to come by and help you figure this out. I have over 40 saws, most over 70CC's, and all sharp.

 

[s sidewall]

May want to also check and make sure the oil hole in the bar is aligning up with the oil grove on the saw. If it's only partly aligned, it won't get enough while cutting, that oil has to go somewhere being pumped out. Only time I see a chain like that is from trying to force cut with a dull chain, they will get mighty hot.

Steve

 

[rarefish383]

Steve, you have a point there. I know several guys that didn't grow up around saws. Whenever they tightened the chain, they would push down on the bar. I put a block of wood under the tip and hold the bar up. Once you start cutting, no matter how tight the bar nuts are, the bar will work it's way back up. If you adjust it when it's down, it will get loose as it works it's way back up. Maybe when it's in that down position it's not lining up. Even so, I've never seen that cause a bar to heat up that bad.