Jonsered 670 parts bin build

[cambl]

Paint

Greg

Rustoleum Acrylic Enamel Automotive Gloss Red is a very close match, but I think there was a thread over in the Jonsered section that went in depth into red paint.

10 of the 600 series? That's a sickness- I like it.

 

[gapl1953]

Greg

Rustoleum Acrylic Enamel Automotive Gloss Red is a very close match, but I think there was a thread over in the Jonsered section that went in depth into red paint.

10 of the 600 series? That's a sickness- I like it.

Hey, thanks for the info!!
I found that old Jonsereds are very much a sickness!

Greg

 

[Chris J.]

Greg, I don't know if you've seen the linked thread, but Cantdog has done rebuilds on more than a few older Jonsereds saws.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/166672.htm

 

[gapl1953]

Greg, I don't know if you've seen the linked thread, but Cantdog has done rebuilds on more than a few older Jonsereds saws.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/166672.htm

No I haven't seen that but I will check it out. Thanks for the info.
I have three 70e's that need to be redone. I also have a very nice 49sp that I haven't started yet, so I don't know if that need a rebuild. The guy I got it from said that it ran and it is not all beat up so I think it is a good one.

Thank's
Greg

 

[Chris J.]

No I haven't seen that but I will check it out. Thanks for the info.
I have three 70e's that need to be redone. I also have a very nice 49sp that I haven't started yet, so I don't know if that need a rebuild. The guy I got it from said that it ran and it is not all beat up so I think it is a good one.

Thank's
Greg

I've got a couple of 70Es & about three or four 49SPs needing some attention (my One Of These Days list is quite long, LOL).

Robin / Cantdog posts a lot of detailed info here, & is also great about answering questions.

 

[cambl]

Got distracted with a couple of small Huskys, but back at it ...

Tap in the left side crank seal

Install new seal in the oil pump housing, then install the pump. You have an big o-ring, pick up tube, and small o-ring for the discharge port. Don't forget any of these or you'll be tearing it back apart.

This is the best time to do a pressure check, and it only takes a few minutes. I have a jig set up using an old 630 cylinder.

Flywheel, ignition, kill wire, and air deflector all installed

 

[cambl]

Since the rubber intake boot is not my favorite, and 670 plastic is hard to come by, I'm doing a 268 conversion with new p/c, intake block, and top cover.

268 top end, muffler, recoil, and handle bar installed. All the 268 parts bolt right up.

Orange top cover painted "Fusion" black with a clear coat to protect it. The old air filter cover studs come out and are replaced with screws. A couple of minor mods, and it fits nice.

No chain brake on this one because it's going on mill (and I don't have a complete one!)

 

[3000 FPS]

Very nice Cambl thanks for showing your work.
Roger

 

[lmbrman]

great thread !

gotta get me some red

 

[Cantdog]

Very nice......couple questions...is that the Gillardoni 268 cyl?? or aftermarket??..... and what carb did you use? I notice it has the Jonsered high idle..225 for a 630??...or did you bore the impulse line into the 250/230 670 carb?? Just wondering.....

BTW I'm not a big fan of boots either!! OL!!!

 

[cambl]

The p/c kit came from sponsor Northwood Saw, and it's a closed port version with no mfg name on it. Quality looks really good, so we'll see.

The carb is standard 670 with the top cover swapped over and the impulse hole drilled. I didn't want to pay Husky's price for the special 4mm carb bolts, so I bbought some standard ones from a bolt supplier and cut them down to 80mm length.

Question for those who have tried it - does the 268 chain brake assy fit the 630/670 even though it is shaped differently in the back? Seems like there is some grinding or something that has to be done. Aftermarket brake assys are $50. Thanks.

 

[Chris J.]

...

...

For those who might not know--I forget the name for the part that goes over the flywheel and holds the wires, but I do know that there are at least two different ones for the 670 and they don't interchange.

 

[gapl1953]

The p/c kit came from sponsor Northwood Saw, and it's a closed port version with no mfg name on it. Quality looks really good, so we'll see.

The carb is standard 670 with the top cover swapped over and the impulse hole drilled. I didn't want to pay Husky's price for the special 4mm carb bolts, so I bbought some standard ones from a bolt supplier and cut them down to 80mm length.

Question for those who have tried it - does the 268 chain brake assy fit the 630/670 even though it is shaped differently in the back? Seems like there is some grinding or something that has to be done. Aftermarket brake assys are $50. Thanks.

I know you can take a aftermarket chain brake assembly from a Husky 61 and very easily get it to fit and work. I do it for the saw with series 1 and 2 chain brakes You just need to cut the tail off with a band saw. Here is my finish product on a 630 that I sold on eBay.

View attachment 265337View attachment 265338

 

[almondgt]

For those who might not know--I forget the name for the part that goes over the flywheel and holds the wires, but I do know that there are at least two different ones for the 670 and they don't interchange.

The parts name is an air conductor as per the manufacturers description.................:biggrinbounce2:

 

[taplinhill]

For those who might not know--I forget the name for the part that goes over the flywheel and holds the wires, but I do know that there are at least two different ones for the 670 and they don't interchange.

There's one for the two piece ignition, and one for the one piece.

 

[little possum]

Subbing. I like my Jred. Need to spend some time to make it run again

 

[cambl]

I know you can take a aftermarket chain brake assembly from a Husky 61 and very easily get it to fit and work. I do it for the saw with series 1 and 2 chain brakes You just need to cut the tail off with a band saw. Here is my finish product on a 630 that I sold on eBay.

Thanks, I think I'll try that.

 

[Cantdog]

I have done a couple husky chainbrake installs on the 6XX saws...everything works great but I cut a bit closer to the rear partition in the cover....gives a little more clearance between the top handle mount and brake cover for AV movement when working. It may not be an issue but I like plenty of room between moving parts......

 

[Chris J.]

Some info I pulled from the Jonsered sticky thread. I thought that someone had posted photos ???, but I wasn't able to find them.

Bailey's has (had?) the clutch covers that would work on a 670, I think they're listed under the Husqvarna 266/268. The bad news is they're orange, and the regular price was $60.00.

Well, darn, I found it on Bailey's site, and in the Q&A section they say it won't work on a Jred 670. That's not what I've read .

Bailey's - Sprocket Cover with Brake for Husqvarna 61, 66 266 268 272

The cover on the 266 extends back over the the top handle, which unlike the 670, is bent inward (the handle) so the cover clears. The 670 cover ends along the front edge of the handle and could be used as is on a 266. If you cut the 266 cover extension off it would work fine but wouldn't look quite the same as the 670. Or alternatively you'd have to also put a 266 top handle on the 670 (and then the 266 brake bar would line up at the same angle too, without bending it).

My 670 needs some brake hardware and I figure by the time I buy that I'd be close to the price of replacing my functional but cracked one with a $50 scratched up but complete feebay one. Other saws keep sucking down the parts funds though...

Bill

Yep you can use the Husky cover if you cut the back off right along the backside of the chip chute so as to clear the handle....as said it still doesn't look quite right but will work perfectly. I had a real beat 630 come to me that someone had simply pounded the extention off with a hammer.......it was ugly!! I put it on the bandsaw and trimmed it up......rattle canned it red and used it untill I sold the saw..it's still going strong..

 

[battlefordguy]

Boot # 503611301 and clamp #503591601 are still available through your friendly local Husky dealer.

Can't seem to source a induction boot 503 611301.

Anyone got old stock or access?