I myself do not mind clamshell designs on the smaller CC saws and own several in the 46 cc range. I even have one that I modified and have it 4 stroking at 14k rpm's.
Congradulations on the saw.
Congradulations on the saw.
I think so...been quite a while since I read it....I will look when I get back to the shop. Never had to do it and don't have a dial indicator setup that will screw into the plug hole either..
Well, there's good news and there's bad.:rolleyes2: I took the flywheel off and found the coil damaged on the points plate. Not too much of a problem because I have a couple spares. But.....I can't solder that one connection to ground on the coil plate. Tomorrow I'm gonna buy a decent solder 'gun' that will give me the heat I need. The point was waaaaay to narrow like you thought. It looks like the PO tried to do something with the points plate and one of the screws, but lacked a metric Allen. Anyway, I need to get that one lead soldered to go further.
Kevin
Well that shouldn't to big a deal to solder with a good gun. I did go and reread the shop manual and your timing figures were correct...2.7mm or 7/64". You get the points cleaned, filed, matched and set to 0.016" and I think you'll see a big difference in that 90!!
I'm not a fan of plastic clamshells, but my dealer had a good price on this saw and I needed a small woodcutter to thrash.
The 2245 is 46cc, strato, and has a wide open muffler with no cat. No need for a muffler mod, there is nothing to drill or cut. Carb screws are the spline style without limiters, so you can get the spline tool or just take a dremel and cut slots in the heads so you can use a screwdriver. Right out of the box the H needle was set at 3/4 and the spark plug was white from the factory run-in. Way too lean.
It's rev-limited at about 13,200 but runs great at 12,700-12,800 and there is no need to go higher. The strato butterfly opens up after the throttle plate is already cracked open, so response is very good with no flat spot off of idle. Good air filter system- after cutting a cord of alder there was nothing in the air box except some fine dust. Oiler is adequate for a 18" bar.
Overall this seems to be a great little saw, and we'll see how it holds up after a few hundred hours.
Nice looking little saw! I have several of the 2100 series in the plastic clamshell. If I needed a good, reasonably priced firewood saw I wouldn't hesitate to buy a plastic clamshell saw. Just like anything else, if you take care of it, it will last a long time.
Well that shouldn't to big a deal to solder with a good gun. I did go and reread the shop manual and your timing figures were correct...2.7mm or 7/64". You get the points cleaned, filed, matched and set to 0.016" and I think you'll see a big difference in that 90!!
You mean compared to a Stihl 029 where every single screw needs to come out and there are parts all over the bench, just to replace piston rings?
"But they're a good saw for their intended purpose........................."
-Stihl Lovers Battle Cry
Well that shouldn't to big a deal to solder with a good gun. I did go and reread the shop manual and your timing figures were correct...2.7mm or 7/64". You get the points cleaned, filed, matched and set to 0.016" and I think you'll see a big difference in that 90!!
Does anybody know the maximum prescribed rpms WOT and idle for a Jonsered 451E? I thought of 12.500 and 2.700.
After getting some solid advice from cantdog, I did indeed find the point gap WAY too narrow in my Jonny 90. Also found a damaged coil once I removed the flywheel. Man, you never know what you'll get into from saws off fleabay.:msp_sad:
Anyway, got the saw all back together and took it on a big contract job I had. Saw ran great except it ran flat out-no adjusting the high speed jet. So rather than risk burning the saw up, I set it aside. Confident that my carb rebuild was OK(I used to rebuild exotic Weber carbs), I was looking for other culprits. When I took the carb off, I noticed something not right about the gasket supplied with the rebuild kit. It did not completely cover the high speed venturi of the intake manifold. Found a decent gasket I had and re-instaled...BINGO, could finally dial in the high speed jetting!
So I guess what I'm saying is that; just because a gasket comes in a rebuild kit, don't assume it's the correct carb gasket.
Kevin
LOL!!!!! You are probably the only Jonsereds owner I haven't cautioned about this !!!! Even if/when you get a OEM Tilly kit that gasket will still not fit. You can either make one using the supplied one as a template just making it larger on the outside or a stock gasket from a more modern Husky or Jonsered...like from a 61/266/268/272 or 625/630 will work just fine. GLad you found the issues and got them worked out!!! Congrats!!
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