I myself do not mind clamshell designs on the smaller CC saws and own several in the 46 cc range. I even have one that I modified and have it 4 stroking at 14k rpm's.
Congradulations on the saw.
Congradulations on the saw.
Jonsered Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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Well, there's good news and there's bad.:rolleyes2: I took the flywheel off and found the coil damaged on the points plate. Not too much of a problem because I have a couple spares. But.....I can't solder that one connection to ground on the coil plate. Tomorrow I'm gonna buy a decent solder 'gun' that will give me the heat I need. The point was waaaaay to narrow like you thought. It looks like the PO tried to do something with the points plate and one of the screws, but lacked a metric Allen. Anyway, I need to get that one lead soldered to go further.
Kevin
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Well that shouldn't to big a deal to solder with a good gun. I did go and reread the shop manual and your timing figures were correct...2.7mm or 7/64". You get the points cleaned, filed, matched and set to 0.016" and I think you'll see a big difference in that 90!!
Hope so.:msp_wink: Looks like the folks @Jonny got the ground plate hot and dropped a glob of solder in that hole all the way through. Weird way to connect wire....don't know why they didn't use a connector instead. I guess if I had to, I could screw a connector into that soft solder hole.
Kevin
PB
Addicted to ArboristSite
Nice looking little saw! I have several of the 2100 series in the plastic clamshell. If I needed a good, reasonably priced firewood saw I wouldn't hesitate to buy a plastic clamshell saw. Just like anything else, if you take care of it, it will last a long time.
Nice looking little saw! I have several of the 2100 series in the plastic clamshell. If I needed a good, reasonably priced firewood saw I wouldn't hesitate to buy a plastic clamshell saw. Just like anything else, if you take care of it, it will last a long time.
And they're really easy to work on
cambl
ArboristSite Guru
2245
"And they're really easy to work on .."
You mean compared to a Stihl 029 where every single screw needs to come out and there are parts all over the bench, just to replace piston rings?
"And they're really easy to work on .."
You mean compared to a Stihl 029 where every single screw needs to come out and there are parts all over the bench, just to replace piston rings?
CD....looked all over for the hottest soldering gun I could find. Wound up with a 280watt gun. That did the trick in like five secs....amazing. Man, that thing got HOT! Now, back together for a test run with the new coil and cleaned/gapped point.
Kevin
I need a grommet for the oil line where it comes through casing to the bar on my 535. I'd imagine it was a common across the board grommet. Any ideas on a replacement part number for something like that?
"But they're a good saw for their intended purpose........................."
-Stihl Lovers Battle Cry
cambl
ArboristSite Guru
Purpose of a Stihl
I'm getting used to the Stihl models and have owned quite a few for short amounts of time. The intended purpose for me is to find them cheap, clean them up, and sell so I can buy more Jonsereds! It's amazing what weekend woodcutters will pay for the Stihl name.
I'm getting used to the Stihl models and have owned quite a few for short amounts of time. The intended purpose for me is to find them cheap, clean them up, and sell so I can buy more Jonsereds! It's amazing what weekend woodcutters will pay for the Stihl name.
CD-fired right up! Sounds STRONG now, different saw. You da man, once again. Thank you!
I've got a falling job next week for a customer....I'll put it to work for sure.
Kevin
Kneet
ArboristSite Lurker
RPMs Jonsered 451E
Does anybody know the maximum prescribed rpms WOT and idle for a Jonsered 451E? I thought of 12.500 and 2.700.
Does anybody know the maximum prescribed rpms WOT and idle for a Jonsered 451E? I thought of 12.500 and 2.700.
PB
Addicted to ArboristSite
WOT is 12,300. Idle should be in the 2300-2700 range or so the chain doesn't move.
After getting some solid advice from cantdog, I did indeed find the point gap WAY too narrow in my Jonny 90. Also found a damaged coil once I removed the flywheel. Man, you never know what you'll get into from saws off fleabay.:msp_sad:
Anyway, got the saw all back together and took it on a big contract job I had. Saw ran great except it ran flat out-no adjusting the high speed jet. So rather than risk burning the saw up, I set it aside. Confident that my carb rebuild was OK(I used to rebuild exotic Weber carbs), I was looking for other culprits. When I took the carb off, I noticed something not right about the gasket supplied with the rebuild kit. It did not completely cover the high speed venturi of the intake manifold. Found a decent gasket I had and re-instaled...BINGO, could finally dial in the high speed jetting!
So I guess what I'm saying is that; just because a gasket comes in a rebuild kit, don't assume it's the correct carb gasket.
Kevin
Anyway, got the saw all back together and took it on a big contract job I had. Saw ran great except it ran flat out-no adjusting the high speed jet. So rather than risk burning the saw up, I set it aside. Confident that my carb rebuild was OK(I used to rebuild exotic Weber carbs), I was looking for other culprits. When I took the carb off, I noticed something not right about the gasket supplied with the rebuild kit. It did not completely cover the high speed venturi of the intake manifold. Found a decent gasket I had and re-instaled...BINGO, could finally dial in the high speed jetting!
So I guess what I'm saying is that; just because a gasket comes in a rebuild kit, don't assume it's the correct carb gasket.
Kevin
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After getting some solid advice from cantdog, I did indeed find the point gap WAY too narrow in my Jonny 90. Also found a damaged coil once I removed the flywheel. Man, you never know what you'll get into from saws off fleabay.:msp_sad:
Anyway, got the saw all back together and took it on a big contract job I had. Saw ran great except it ran flat out-no adjusting the high speed jet. So rather than risk burning the saw up, I set it aside. Confident that my carb rebuild was OK(I used to rebuild exotic Weber carbs), I was looking for other culprits. When I took the carb off, I noticed something not right about the gasket supplied with the rebuild kit. It did not completely cover the high speed venturi of the intake manifold. Found a decent gasket I had and re-instaled...BINGO, could finally dial in the high speed jetting!
So I guess what I'm saying is that; just because a gasket comes in a rebuild kit, don't assume it's the correct carb gasket.
Kevin
LOL!!!!! You are probably the only Jonsereds owner I haven't cautioned about this !!!! Even if/when you get a OEM Tilly kit that gasket will still not fit. You can either make one using the supplied one as a template just making it larger on the outside or a stock gasket from a more modern Husky or Jonsered...like from a 61/266/268/272 or 625/630 will work just fine. GLad you found the issues and got them worked out!!! Congrats!!
Guys, I bought a 2095 today for the WKY 6 cube build off. I've never built a large JRed or Husky so any hints or tricks would be appreciated. It is complete and has a good cylinder so I'm gonna buy a meteor piston and start from there. I will be splitting the cases to replace bearing and check the crank good also. The question I have is this, do I buy a 394 or 395 piston for a replacement and which would perform better. Like I said any help is appreciated...........
I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think the 394 or 395 will work. The 2094/2095 is not just a red 394/395.
Meteor does make a 2094/2095 piston.
Meteor does make a 2094/2095 piston.
Yeah...I had a bag of green gaskets I bought from somebody....somebody that knew about this problem with the Tilly gaskets I suspect. I went back and checked my other Jonny saw and could see the green gasket in there. I'm puzzled why I went for the smaller gasket in the first place.
Anyway, now that I spent some serious days with the 90, it's my favorite saw. Stronger by a tad than the 80 and smoother on the top end. Doesn't seem to vapor lock like the 80 when left in the sun and it's always a one-pull-to-start saw if it's been run a bit(strange, because the carb & vent system are the same). I'm going to put a 36" bar on it and see if it will pull it. The 90 doesn't pull of course, like the Husky 2100, but I use that saw just to bring down the big ones and buck up same. Now I've got a pretty balanced stable of saws for work. Thanks again for the points suggestion on the 90.
Kevin
