Jonsered Chainsaws

[Real1shepherd]

Bars

I just scored a 36" bar from a member over in the Swap Meet section. It's got the correct 10mm spacing for the bar studs. NOS, old PowerMatch bar. I actually found a tip for it as well. Anyway, in the pics I didn't notice but the chain tensioner holes are elongated squares instead of the rounds like the tensioner of the Jonny 80/90.

If memory serves me, this is OK, just may wear out the tensioner post a little faster? I think the deal is you can't go the other way;trying to force an elongated square tensioner post into a round bar hole....correct?

Kevin

 

[Eccentric]

I just scored a 36" bar from a member over in the Swap Meet section. It's got the correct 10mm spacing for the bar studs. NOS, old PowerMatch bar. I actually found a tip for it as well. Anyway, in the pics I didn't notice but the chain tensioner holes are elongated squares instead of the rounds like the tensioner of the Jonny 80/90.

If memory serves me, this is OK, just may wear out the tensioner post a little faster? I think the deal is you can't go the other way;trying to force an elongated square tensioner post into a round bar hole....correct?

Kevin

Yep. The 'squared' holes fit both. I wouldn't worry about wear on the tensioner post.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Yep. The 'squared' holes fit both. I wouldn't worry about wear on the tensioner post.

That's what I remembered, thanks! I might even have an old bar buried somewhere that I did this with. I've been stockpiling perishable parts for the Jonnies...have a couple of tensioners.

Kevin

 

[PB]

I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think the 394 or 395 will work. The 2094/2095 is not just a red 394/395.
Meteor does make a 2094/2095 piston.

What he said. There are parts that will carry over (oiler, small parts, etc.) but the top ends will not interchange. The K950 cutoff saw does share the same top end as the 2095 so you can still get OEM parts from Husky.

 

[taplinhill]

What he said. There are parts that will carry over (oiler, small parts, etc.) but the top ends will not interchange. The K950 cutoff saw does share the same top end as the 2095 so you can still get OEM parts from Husky.

You learn something new everyday.:msp_thumbup:

 

[Real1shepherd]

Eureka! I found an old Husky 32" bar, .404, .063 gauge and even some almost used-up chisel chain. I count 94DL's but that's really tight. It looks like 10mm bar....I need to measure exactly. That would be a perfect size for the 90 and my use.....saving the Husky 2100 in 36" for the larger stuff. I dunno if the 90 can pull the PowerMatch 36" or not. I'll see how tight that old chain is on the 90 tomorrow and figure the correct amount of DL's for the Husky bar and gotta make sure the oil holes line up too.......

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

80 Chop saw

There's a guy on ebay right now parting out a 80 chop saw power head, bit by bit. Some of his prices are whacky given the condition...some are OK. He keeps changing the auction wording as he learns more about the Jonny power head. He's also now incorporated the 'Make offer' button. I bought some assorted parts from him already....he took my offer. Parts were as described....no affiliation with seller.

Kevin

 

[cbfarmall]

Got a bit of a puzzle, or maybe not. I just stripped down an 820 heated handle to rebuild and transplant to a better crankcase. I've found a couple details not associated with the 20 series, at least not in my mind. First, it has a thin-ring piston and closed port 52mm cylinder. I always thought the 820/920 saws used open ports. Second, the boot clamp brace thingy against the carby is the 910 style assembly--that is, it uses an cast ring to clamp the boot to the carb and has a separate thin aluminum shield bolted to the case.

That said, the cylinder and piston are in great shape and should need no work. I'd like to get a new set of 52mm thin rings, but I don't see that happening. The lousy IPLs don't even distinguish between the two part numbers. Curiously it had no base gasket, just the residue of a blue sealant.

Chris B.

 

[tbone75]

Got a bit of a puzzle, or maybe not. I just stripped down an 820 heated handle to rebuild and transplant to a better crankcase. I've found a couple details not associated with the 20 series, at least not in my mind. First, it has a thin-ring piston and closed port 52mm cylinder. I always thought the 820/920 saws used open ports. Second, the boot clamp brace thingy against the carby is the 910 style assembly--that is, it uses an cast ring to clamp the boot to the carb and has a separate thin aluminum shield bolted to the case.

That said, the cylinder and piston are in great shape and should need no work. I'd like to get a new set of 52mm thin rings, but I don't see that happening. The lousy IPLs don't even distinguish between the two part numbers. Curiously it had no base gasket, just the residue of a blue sealant.

Chris B.

Someone must have had that jug off before ? Real interesting to find out more about it ?
I have 2 - 920s here somewhere ? LOL Want to get into them sometime soon ?
You got me real curious to see what the P&Cs look like ? Hope one could be a closed port ! LOL Very unlikely ! LOL

 

[cbfarmall]

Someone must have had that jug off before ? Real interesting to find out more about it ?
I have 2 - 920s here somewhere ? LOL Want to get into them sometime soon ?
You got me real curious to see what the P&Cs look like ? Hope one could be a closed port ! LOL Very unlikely ! LOL

The cylinder doesn't look molested, but the ports are beautiful. The early Mahle stuff is quite the sight. I'll put it back together without the gasket and see what happens. Got vacation coming up, looks like the Jonsey will be at the front of the line.

I'll work on your 920s, if I can keep them!

Chris B.

 

[tbone75]

The cylinder doesn't look molested, but the ports are beautiful. The early Mahle stuff is quite the sight. I'll put it back together without the gasket and see what happens. Got vacation coming up, looks like the Jonsey will be at the front of the line.

I'll work on your 920s, if I can keep them!

Chris B.

Sure nice of you to offer . :msp_sneaky:

I will get to them some day. LOL Just to many others to work on !

Then the OP saws that keep showing up , can't find much time for my own. LOL

 

[cbfarmall]

Sure nice of you to offer . :msp_sneaky:

I will get to them some day. LOL Just to many others to work on !

Then the OP saws that keep showing up , can't find much time for my own. LOL

I do try.

The Jonsey 920s were some of the first saws I ever owned and worked on. I enjoy revisiting them every now and then. They are hard to mess up.

Chris B.

 

[Arrowhead]

John, I have a bunch of 920/930 stuff if your needing anything. I'm putting a 920 together with a thin ring, ported, 930 top end with a cut squish band this week.

 

[tbone75]

John, I have a bunch of 920/930 stuff if your needing anything. I'm putting a 920 together with a thin ring, ported, 930 top end with a cut squish band this week.

Thanks Ed ! I know it will be a while before I get to them. LOL

Bet that baby will run good !!

 

[cbfarmall]

Just finished going thru my 820. There was a lot of corrosion on the original crankcase so I swapped it out for one with good bearings. At the moment the heated handles aren't working. The resistance on all the elements checks out, so it has to be either the switch or the generator. I put the saw thru a few cuts yesterday and it seems to run exceedingly well. It may be a few ccs short of the 920 but doesn't appear to lagging very far behind. Time will tell.

An 830 is also in the pipeline. Once I get that one, my collection of saws built on this frame will be complete.

Chris B.

 

[Kneet]

Does anybody know the maximum prescribed rpms WOT and idle for a Jonsered 451E? I thought of 12.500 and 2.700.

WOT is 12,300. Idle should be in the 2300-2700 range or so the chain doesn't move.

Saw runs strong. But when idling the rpm's rise with 200 when turning the saw on it's side (2600-2800). Is it a real problem? And is an air leak the only cause for this kind of behavior or are there other possibilities?

 

[tbone75]

Saw runs strong. But when idling the rpm's rise with 200 when turning the saw on it's side (2600-2800). Is it a real problem? And is an air leak the only cause for this kind of behavior or are there other possibilities?

Sounds like the crank seals are bad.

An air leak will kill a saw in a hurry !

 

[cbfarmall]

At the moment the heated handles aren't working. The resistance on all the elements checks out, so it has to be either the switch or the generator.

Just a brief update. After a quick check, it was apparent the switch wasn't working in either position. Not surprisingly they are NLA from Husky. I drilled out the 2 rivet heads and found all the contacts and the rocker covered with corrosion. Polished those up and put the switch back together with plain old super glue. Now the heaters are all working, a little too hot for those 90 degree days lately. If the glue doesn't hold I'll look into completely replacing those rivets with teeny-tiny screws.

Saw gave me a bit of a scare as well. Heard a rattle when it was running and then it shed some parts off the flywheel out thru the airbox. Turns out one of the starter pawls broke apart. Other then taking the spring out with it, nothing else was damaged. A look at the other pawl showed a couple cracks, so that went into the garbage as well.

Chris B.

 

[Kneet]

Saw runs strong. But when idling the rpm's rise with 200 when turning the saw on it's side (2600-2800). Is it a real problem? And is an air leak the only cause for this kind of behavior or are there other possibilities?

Sounds like the crank seals are bad.

An air leak will kill a saw in a hurry !

I checked the saw for air leaks, case holds pressure and vacuum no problem. Carburetor not so good. I don't understand what is happening exactly, during rebuild I have replaced the diaphragms, gaskets and needle. The needle is not the problem it holds 10 PSI. The air leak is at the nozzle (?main nozzle?), see picture. What do I need to fix this problem? It's a Tillotson HK12 on a Jonsered 451E.

View attachment 306759

 

[Cantdog]

I'm no expert on those carbs but from what I've read...sometimes the flat plastic part of the carb warps and they become impossible to get tight and tune......I think PB went through this problem a while back...Perhaps he'll be along with more knowledge....